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Pulling open the curtains this morning, the whole world was transformed. Snow everywhere, still falling silently. Yesterdays' green hillsides and brown rocky peaks were all white, white, white.
Lunch packed, well rugged up against the weather, we caught the bus to Windermere township and boarded another - tourist - bus with 5 others for a day tour of the district. First stop? Straight back to Ambleside to collect 3 more passengers…. We didn't mind though, just more opportunity to see the views, this time with commentary.
A quick walk around at Wray Castle to admire the views, then off to Beatrix Potter's Hill Top Farm and Mr McGregor's Garden. Just as we remembered it from the storybooks and the show on TV - a delight. Coniston Water next, now looking totally different in the snow, and we were glad to have taken the opportunity the previous evening to skim our stones, as it was too icily cold to consider this activity today.
Up over Kirkstone Pass, this time totally white with snow, snow, snow. Passing Ullswater on our circular route, it was another storybook moment, as we were delighted to see another sail boat out and about - the Swallow this time? We were amazed at the bravery of the sailors (or was it sheer stupidity?)- totally frozen we are sure, but tacking up and back in the falling snow for the benefit of the tourists.
To Grasmere for lunch - hot chips to supplement our sandwiches - and Karen took a short stroll to the Gingerbread Shop, obviously very popular as the queue was out the door, even in the rain. On entering, she realised the entire shop was smaller than her dining room at home, so it didn't take much to force a line-up. The gingerbread was worth the wait, luckily.
Our bus driver Andy continued to regale us with stories of the area, it being also Wordsworth country. Most famous? No-one knew any more lines of the poem which he quoted about daffodils and clouds, we were more familiar with stories of Peter Rabbit or Arthur Ransome's adventures.
Deciding we were uncultured creatures, he instead challenged us to count the sheep in the many fields we were passing. Hard to do as there were perhaps hundreds per acre, and white sheep against white snow is tricky. But we tried.
Then down and over to Derwent Water for a boat cruise to break up the day. We assume the views are amazing, but it was all low cloud and more snow - at least the boat was warm and the water calm, and we did see the odd island through the mist.
On to a slippy, wet drive up Honister Pass, the steepest road in the country! It is also one of the highest in the region and has gradients up to 1-in-4 or 25% - scary stuff! Luckily (or is that with skill) we reached the top, only to discover multiple cars reversing back up the other side. Sadly, a car had lost control while descending, and skidded off the narrow road into a stone wall. With no room to pass it or even to turn around, everyone had to reverse back to the top. We were all glad the bus needed only to do a three point turn at the peak, the bus skidding and slipping on the icy road surface up the small slope we had driven down, as it was. With relief we turned back to retrace our steps, with a short stop to allow the cars to pass us at one of the few places available. Nick and Karen quickly made the smallest snowman in the world at this stop - bare hands not appreciating the freeze required to make something 10cm tall.
The snow continued to fall, huge flakes, and it was magical to our eyes. Up a short but steep hill to take in the "Surprise View" listed on our program of events. Surprising indeed, as the clouds obscured everything in white to begin with. Just on queue they parted, and we could see Derwent Water foggily below us, and a huge black and white peak across the valley brilliant in the sunshine.
Next stop was the most spectacular of all - Castlerigg Stone Circle. 38 standing stones, some up to 3 metres tall, set on the flat top of a hill, with views all around. The snow finally decided enough was enough, after falling constantly all day, and as it was 5 inches deep, we kind of agreed. Matthew refused to even leave the bus by this time, complaining his feet would get wet and thinking it might easily start snowing again. No amount of cajoling would convince him to budge, so this makes the third stone circle he has not visited - mmm, a habit forming?
The rest of us braved the chill to visit the pristine whiteness with the dark, wet stones standing stark in the field. Some other visitors had taken the time to make a huge snowman, complete with gloves and puffy jacket. We decided to make him our "Repacement Matthew" as he was almost the same height. We warmed ourselves up with a quick snowball fight involving the entire bus load - minus Matt of course! Good fun and another activity crossed off our bucket lists.
Making our way amid much laughter to the bus, we were informed all the high roads back to Windermere were closed due to weather. None of us were the least surprised. But it meant the journey home was going to be the long way round, via the M6, and take at least an extra hour. But it was definitely a case of better late and safe than not. In fact, what choice did we have?
Walking back to the Backpackers after tea in Ambleside, Nick paused to take a photograph of the view from the exact spot of one taken the day before, and timed almost to the minute. But the picture is so totally different. As was our visit to the Lakes District on this "Wintery kind of Spring" day. Totally unforgettable.
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