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Tuesday morning, most unusually, was damp and drizzly. Us oldies went for a quick walk before breakfast down to the nearby Kilvickeon Beach, across the fields from the ruined 12th century chapel we had visited a few days earlier. This used to be the parish church for the whole area, and we assume many worshippers arrived via the beach we were about to visit. The churchyard is still being used as a burial site for locals, with the most recent headstone only being a few years old.
Strangely, amongst the crumbling walls of this church, there is a long wooden box against a sheltering wall, inside of which is - not the sad remains of anyone - but a headstone! It is a lovely long piece of slate, intricately carved with a cross entwined in plants and with animals on the side edges. It is believed to date from around 1500 and the inscription (translated to English) reads 'Here lies Mariota, daughter of…' It is quite awe-inspiring to look at the handiwork of someone from 500 years ago, whilst standing in the remains of a building constructed around 300 years earlier than that! Australia has a lot of catching up to do, for sure!
The walk to the beach was short, and unusually dry for this Island. The small curve of white sand was covered in footprints of the herd of cattle contentedly munching their breakfast just up the slope. We climbed the high promontory to the right, looking for a ruined Dun (fort) but were unable to find it, and discussion ensued whether it was on the lower hill between us and the beach proper. (Later investigation back at the Cottage leads us to believe we were actually standing on it - So much for our archaeological prowess!)
Garbh Eilean, or Goat Island, is only separated from the land at high tide. Nicky predictably had to try the water temperature and paddle in the ocean. She declared it wonderful, but then she always does. The rest of us wisely decided not to risk freeze damage to our toes. Then home for breakfast.
Nigels bags packed, we all piled into the alarm-car once again for the trip to Craignure and the ferry. Paul most politely NOT playing his "Sorry, cant stop" game today, meant we had a more pleasant, and, as unlikely as it seems, speedier journey to our destination as a result.
Karen and Nicky took the opportunity in Craignure to drop into the Charity Shop, with the excuse that we were on the hunt for size 12 rubber boots for Matthews huge feet. No luck in that department, but Karen did purchase a top and restricted herself to only buying 2 books….
Waving goodbye to Nigel we drove further north, through the increasing rain, taking a wide circle to the left and approaching Tobermory from the land, instead of the coastal route. The intention being to make a large figure 8 of the roads on Mull, and therefore get a good look round at the same time. Part of the route included the Mull Car Rally track, and Paul kindly gave us a small indication of what it feels like to participate. Although the race officials close the road for this, of course, so we had the added thrill and excitement of meeting on-coming traffic.
Lunch was the first order of the day on arrival at the colourful coastal village. We had been promising Matthew for 3 days a pie for lunch, and each time the bakery was either closed or out of stock! His dream came true in Tobermory though, and his happy smile was evidence enough. Nick was also a happy chap, as for the first time in nearly a week, he had internet access and could indulge in some screen time. Paul also had his laptop out, and Matt also succumbed to temptation. Grrr!
Along the damp and misty foreshore, Karen ventured to the furthest end of the street, with the intention of systematically entering each shop in turn. Although the first thing she noticed was a dog (obviously male) sitting very patiently in the drivers' seat of a camper van, waiting for the woman owner to finish her shopping so they could go home. He had that resigned look on his face, totally recognisable as boredom and longing to be anywhere else but there. (Perhaps he was missing the football?)
Karen made a very conscious decision NOT to enter the bookshop, which was the first building she encountered. That was, until Nick and Nicky arrived, and basically pushed her in the door! Most unkindly they then accused her of giving in to her compulsive habits, and were disdainful of the fact she then purchased 3 books very quickly… Nasty.
Paul and Matt meanwhile were off on a shopping expedition of their own, as Paul had a gift to purchase. That task quickly achieved, he and Nick left us to go on a wee whisky tour, so at least we had no repeats of the face of the campervan driver earlier.
Nick was reminded of Pauls' celebrity status when he was recognised at the Distillery and asked to autograph a postcard for a fan. This is not our usual impression of our darling family member, who to us is "Just Our Cousin Paul".
The rain all this time continued to fall, getting heavier and heavier. Matt also soon tired of the wandering, and sat in the car and watched Dr Who on his tablet. Karen and Nicky were still happily shopping for gifts and memory-keeping souvenirs. So basically, everyone was happily employed for an hour or so.
The rain continued unabated for most of the day, but it did not dampen our spirits too much. It finally paused briefly on the way home so a few shots could be taken of the Sound of Mull as the sun was setting. We had calculated that this was day 7 of our Scotland journey, and figured that even the sun deserves one day off a week!
Unfortunately, though, the awesome views across to Oban and beyond were all obscured by the misty rain. So that view remains a mystery to be revealed next time we visit this awesome and awe-inspiring part of the world.
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