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06/10/2013
Went for a venture for a SIM card today to put in my mobile. Means the folks back home can ring me and it won't cost me a penny. Sending texts and calling is also ridiculously cheap as well. Was asking some Indian guy of any phone shops on the cliff and a random passer by just jumped in told me where it was, think she was an Aussie lass. Turns out it was past Temple beach, this is the southern beach. I had a walk down and it was full of locals, with not many tourists. Apparently Varkala is quite a spiritual place, a place where some Hindus come to scatter the ashes of their loved ones. People do this in Varanasi, and apparently its ends the circle of birth and rebirth for ever, hence it being dubbed the Varanasi of the South… but I didn't see any of this, just looked like a beach rammed full of Indians to me.
A bit more in land I also came across this big open square pool of water, which you could reach by walking down the steps, almost like a big bowl. There were locals in the bottom, having a shower under the water that flew into it, washing clothes, swimming. They seen me looking and started laughing and waving, bobbing up and down in the water like little fish. I shouted hello back and got a couple of snaps lol.
Eventually found the place, I was familiar where I was as I had taken a rickshaw past here early to get to the ATM. Also bumped into Michael en route which was nice, he was having a coconut lol. Didn't end up getting the SIM in the end, didn't have a reference. He said if I had a business card of Shiva garden that would be fine. The quest continues!!! I would be back tomorrow…
Walking back I seen a person with his legs cut off at his knee caps and only one arm, slowly plodding to where I had came from. Obviously his legs were much shorter so every step was a baby step. Felt so sorry for the guy. There was also a blind beggar on the cliff top the other day as well. He was holding a piece of paper with text on, probably explaining his situation. But the paper was now so old the sun had wasted away the ink and was now illegible. This was different in Trivandrum, I didn't see anyone actually physically begging there, but there was people just sitting on the side of the road, their eyes just so melancholy and soulless, or even people asleep at the side of the road; but neither even had the physical energy to beg.
Anyways, walking back along the beach there was big crowd gathered in a circle. I walked over to have a look and there was a little skinny boat, and two fishermen were unreeling the net, a third would pick the fish out, and put it on the fourth's pile, this guy would sell it to the punters. There wasn't much going on, and the fish weren't that big, but everyone just stood and watched so attentively.
Ended up walking back. Before the start of the cliff where the path starts there's a big open space, almost like a car park. Parked up are all the rickshaw drivers ready to take the punters where ever they wanna go. But this time they were all congregated behind their rickshaws, some sitting on a little bench. I decided to have a gander and there were four Aussies there, two lads and two lasses. Turns out they were joining in with the locals in a game of bowls. What you had to do was stand behind the line and pitch four metal marbles towards the grid. Every square had a different value, with the one at the back left for example scoring a whopping 100 points. If it landed it the cracks between the squares this was no score. I decided to join in on the next game, and it was 20rupee a go… the winner took it all! Was really hard to judge it, the concrete ground was really uneven and getting the right length was almost impossible to judge as the marbles had a life of their own. I had 100 to beat. Pulled up a 60 on my second shot but couldn't place any other scorers after that. Was really funny watching the Aussies play, especially when one of them pulled a massive score on his first ball, and the locals were really getting in to it. Wasn't meant to be and one of the locals took the prize. Little stupid things like that can just make the day lol.
Went for food on the night and one of the Aussie lads from Little Tibet came, he's also at Shiva and I've seen him around plenty. Turns out he was called Jimmy, as was his British friend but he had left to go home now. He didn't really seem my cup of tea to begin with, was a confident pretty boy type of lad, who was also saying 'yeah bro' this, 'yeh bro' that. But it turns out he's a really canny guy, and this is just the way he is. Had some daft stories, and the way he told then was always funny to watch. Whilst sitting down a French lad joined us, he's also always popping around Shiva. He's called Adrian and is actually Swiss. Then after that it really turned into a melting pot… three lasses also pulled up, one of them recognized Adrian and started talking to him in French; turns out she was from Canada. The other one was from Venice, Italy, and the third was Russian. Was shocked to learn the first two were only 19, and were both solo. Low and behold all three had all met at the ashram (that bloody ashram!!!!), they had went for Ama's birthday. Later on we went to Chill Out bar, a real nice place which often plays live music, and out the back there are laid back sofa seats on the floor, with drapes over and pillows etc. In the middle there was this massive pit :S couldn't figure out what that was for. Later on a guy called Sebastian joined us, a French guy who'd also hit up the ashram, as well some Spaniard guy who's also at Shiva. And yes just to be different I do believe he may have been to the ashram too. Everyone got drinks put as I per I stuck to the bottled water, its only 20 rupee, and I don't really see the point of drinking out here. Eventually called it a night and FacTimed the folks, was good to chat to the bros. Hit the hay.
07/10/2013
Lucy and Nick are moving onto a farm next, to do some volunteering. They got an email yesterday saying it had been postponed so they now leaving on Wednesday, even better news!
Had enough of my old room and upgraded to a £4 a night room. (there's a sentence you wouldn't normally say). Moved all my stuff in and was happy. Put up my net, keep the mozzies out (or in I guess).
Nick decided to accompany me to the SIM card place. He loves dogs, and always made a conscious effort to say hello to every dog he passed, as if it could anyway understand him. Just as there's an over population of people here, so is the population of dogs. There's constantly a stray dog somewhere swanning around. There always the same breed as well (not sure which one). Got my SIM but need to come back tomorrow to activate it.
Walking back I also I spotted a Moss ship on the horizon. For those not in the loop this is a design of LNG ship which has around 4/5 gigantic spherical shaped balls which house the cargo of LNG. I pointed it out to Nick and gave him a quick run down of all things LNG. Like most people his initial response was 'whats LNG?'
Later on got food with gang, at Trattorias. Again we bumped into Adrian again on the cliffs, and he joined us. He's a really canny guy and was good to hear his stories… SEA, China. Very jealous.
Later back at Shiva we seen Jimmy, turns out he had been reading his book all day, Shantaram. My mams reading the same book. He said you normally couldn't pay him to read a book but this was a page turner. Jimmy's also only 20, and again is solo. Turns out he's already traveled Europe. Man I'm such a novice right now! FaceTimed the folks. Seen my dog jumping up looking so happy. Literally love that dog so much and it made me upset seeing him, really miss him. Went up to the room after, had a nice jam before we all hit the hay. Will have to learn guitar one day. Its Sarah's and Iqbal's last day tomorrow as well. Very sad times.
08/10/2012
Got up around mid day to find the communal area heaving. All the usuals, as well as this Italian couple who we see every day and chat to. Every time we see them on the cliff they always have a dog following them. I'm sure they said they were looking after it but it just looks like one of the strays. There was also a girl sitting down getting flute lessons off some Indian guy. The Indian guy was unreal but she was a bit rusty. The flute was also wooden which was weird.
Had a game of keepy ups with Nick and Jimmy before hitting Little Tibet for some late breakfast with them two plus Lucy, Sarah, Iqbal, Ryan and Adrian. En route my flip flop perfectly broke outside one of the little cloth shops, so I went in and got some new ones. She wanted 300 but I demanded 200. We met in the middle at 250, then there was some confusion about not having the right change and I will have to come back later. Without looking like a tatey I decided to leave it and said they could keep the 50. Whats 50p between fiends?
Afterwards Lucy accompanied me to the phone place as she hadn't been past the South/Temple beach yet and wanted to take a look. We got the SIM sorted, the guy was very helpful. Got a pic with the fella for good measure.
Back at Shiva Iqbal and Lucy were wrapping Divia's birthday present; Sonia and Jayan's one year old girl. The mini T-shirt fitted fine but the trousers were too big… haha she'll grow. Turns out Iqbal is good pals with Jayan, and has stopped many times before. Apparently he once helped Jayan out before when he was building the new building and costs were escalating. In return Jayan lets Iqbal stop for free when ever he is in the area. Haha nice one!
Later on all the lads went down the beach for a game of footy. It was mixed teams between tourists and locals, and anyone who wanted to join in was welcome. Upstepped some giant French guy who was the rock at the back, some other separate French guy who had tidy feet, two Canadian brothers called Jason Chris, a Northen Irish guy called Jim who had the NI footy badge tattooed on his back, and even a random French girl who was actually pretty decent (she even won the ball off me at one point!!!). Was a really good game though, safe to say we tore up the sand, but all the other tourists watched on and enjoyed it. Jimmy was especially tidy, the guys really athletic you can tell he's great at all sports. This was confirmed when after going on a mazey run before finishing calmly, then doing a back flip to celebrate lol. The Indians were not as gracious and would often get a rush of blood to the head when the ball came their way and just swing their leg hoping for the best…. Best stick with the cricket ey there lads!
Afterwards we called time and we all went running off into the sea to cool off, the banter was good. Got talking to Jim the Irish guy, he asked if I was Irish too. haha he said he thought I was Irish because he couldn't understand me. Turns out he too was solo, and had been to the north. Haha just before going one of the strays was going absolute crazy at this big alsaian type dog. All the strays are a beigey gingerish colour, so it was no surprise that this dog clearly didn't have a clue what was going on when he seen this big black furry 'thing' waltzing up and down the beach. The alsaian didn't batter an eye lid but the stray kept on barking lol.
We then walked back to get showered. When approaching the little building in Shiva I seen Iqbal and Sarah chatting on Iqbal's balcony. I walked in to join in but Iqbal said kindly "I've just got a consultation, is that ok?" haha whatever that means!
Later on we got food at Trattorias, everyone's fave. Bumped into the two Canadian brothers again which was nice. Lucy ordered momos for a shared starter. It's a Tibetan dish apparently, and they're basically just little dumpling things with veg and stuff inside. I got the fish butter masala, was probs even better than the dopiaza! Got so much as well. Jimmy was being his usual self and doing something cool, this time blowing perfect smoke rings.
After a while it started to get really really windy, so the waiters quickly rolled down the blinds to block the wind. Despite being tied down the blinds were bulging in the force of the wind, so much so you could lean against them and it would support your weight. We eventually squared up the bill and we all walked home. By this time it was absolutely chucking it down!!! October signals the start of the reverse monsoon. Normally the wet season in India is June, July, August, but since it's so tropical here they have a second wet season which starts in October till about November. This was actually the first bit of rain I had seen and normally its glorious sunshine. To add to the rain was the never ending lightning; practically every 2 mins a flash of light would illuminate the whole sky and the coast. Was an amazing scene. Every time this happened Jimmy would shout 'boom Shiva!!' (the Indian God which is so big here). We eventually all trudged back to Shiva Garden and dried out selves down. To our annoyance on arrival there was a power cut, meaning no light or air con for the whole night. These are quite common here, and can last from a few second to half an hour. We rounded up all the candles and chilled on Ryan's balcony. Quite surprising how much light candles actually kick out. Later I called it a night and said my goodbyes to Iqbal, Sarah, Nick and Lucy who were leaving in the morning. Was very sad to see them go but they had been great company. Sweated my t*** off on the night without any AC as the power cut lasted the whole night!!
09/10/2013
Ryan, Jimmy and Adrian had decided the day before that they were going to rent scooters and have a day trip to Kovalam, the beach just beneath Trivandrum. They were going to stop the night and surf the next day. I hummed and harred about joining them but decided against it. 1 it would meaning packing up my whole room again just for the sake of a couple of nights, 2 they were bound to get lost somewhere en route, and 3, I've never ridden a scooter before and didn't fancy losing this virginity in the chaos of the Indian roads.
As per I went for some breakfast at Little Tibet, the guy smiled at me as I walked up the stairs and said 'the same?' Sure or not before long two nuttella pancakes landed on my lap. Afterwards I went down to the beach with my book and chilled and caught some rays. Whilst I read I noticed how many little crabs there were scurring along the sand; every now and then disappearing into their holes if someone walked past.
Later on I seen one of the Indian guys off footy last night pitching a tennis ball towards a white guy who had a bat, there were stumps behind him. He wasn't very good and kept missing, meaning every time he had to chase after the ball down the beach. I was bored of my book so volunteered to be wicket keeper. Turns out the guy was Finnish, and obviously had never played the game. Later on when I was in bat and the guy was bowling he delivery wasn't that good either. The run up and over arm swing was lost on him, so instead he stood nice and close, held the ball out in front of him and squinted one eye to line it up, before pulling back then releasing towards the stumps. I say stumps in a general sense of direction. Many times it went flying over my head, or hit my top half of my body when I couldn't get out of the way in time. He didn't bother about making it bounce and unavertedly went for the full Yorker on every delivery. The beach is only quite small so all the other tourists one the beach were watching, and was a bit embarrassing. Later on the two Canadians joined in and were really good, good deliveries and smashed every ball when in bat.
Slowly got sick of the cricket and a footy game emerged, again the Canadians and the French guy playing. This time two Columbians joined us. I thought they were Brazilian at first, but they weren't that impressive.
Later on I went to Hungry Eye Kitchen for a well earned meal, bumped into Nicola before I left, the Aussie lass, but she had just eaten, would have been nice for her to join me. Got the Thai red curry, a litre bottle of water, and a chocolate pudding for desert. I thought it was going to be some sort of cake but was more just like chocolate custard in a bowl. Was still very nice and I lapped it all up. The grand total of £3.30 for the lot hahaha. I love this place. Beside me were two very obnoxious Russain lasses, grilling the poor waiters on the contents of the each item, then sending stuff back when it turned up as they said it was fried not steamed… haha just eat the food….
Walked back and had a nice sleep.
10/10/2013
Today was a really quiet day. Decided against the nutella pancakes and went for something more substantial at Hungry Eye Kitchen. Got a steak breakfast which consists of steak, 2 eggs which I get fried on both sides, two slices of nice thick toast with butter and marmalade, saturated potatoes (which are basically homemade crisps) and a milk coffee all for 140. Decided against the beach and decided to read my book back at Shiva, nearly finished it now. The guys were still on their road trip to Kovallam so there wasn't much going on. Then coming out of the en suite in my room, there on the wall was a gigantic gecko just slithering across the wall, so fast. My room's quite dingey so it was really creepy. I know geckos can't hurt you but this still freaked me big time. I decided to hit the cliffs for some food and get Apu to help me find it later. Went to Clafouti for food, got a korma, was bland and I didn't enjoy it. Later on found Apu, and he got an electric fly swatter, a tennis bat shaped object, press the button and the strings electrify. We went into the room and couldn't find anything so Apu left. Then I spotted again, this time in the toilet, so I got Apu back and he eventually caught it. I slept easier that night.
11/10/2013
Went to Hungry Eyed Kitchen again for some food. Sat next to me was some other white lass, just by her self. Then all of a sudden she asked me 'doesn't it remind you of the lion king?'. Then from there we got talking, turns out she's also solo, and had been in Vietnam, and was now spending some time in Kerala before she goes to Delhi for a wedding. She was called Sonia, 28, from Kent but worked as a teacher in Brixton. She was a really nice girl, not much makeup type of girl but really pretty. We went down to the beach after together, chilled, then got some drinks afterwards. But this time it was getting later and the sun was setting. Turns out she was the hotel down from Shiva, so we went back for a shower and met back up to dinner. Went to Trattorias, I got Thai and she got Japanese, was really nice. Went for some drinks after at the Big Apple, but she doesn't drink anymore so was on the teas. Went to go find somewhere else and we bumped into Ryan, Adrian and Jimmy in Rock n Roll café. They got back from their roadtrip just earlier and we joined them. We eventually all called it a night and walked home. She said she'd be at the beach tomorrow, and I promised to show her her new hotel she was moving into as she didn't know where it was.
Had a little chat with the Swedish girl who's also in Shiva before bed, she's also solo.
12/10/2013
Chilled on the roof of Shiva in the morn with Jimmy and Ryan then hit HEK for some food. They said they would be at the beach, so once I finished I went to find them. Couldn't find them, nor Sonia, but bumped into the Canadian brothers and had a swim with them. Went back, and Leyna, the Canadian girl was back! Turns out she got sick of the ashram and came back to Varkala. She had also brought some Dutch guy called Elma with her, a really cool guy who is the spit of Tim Krul. Also met these three Bangalore lads who were down on a short holiday, very cool. Ones a fashion designer, ones a film maker, and didn't get the other guys profession. We all went back down the beach together and all had a swim, played with rubgy, played frizby and watched the sunset. Went back to get cleaned up and went to Clafouti for bait. Kept it cheap and went for a pizza and water. After we went to the Chill Out Lounge, a really busy place which is heaving with tourists. They place live music, so one guy on guitar singing and people with drums and stuff, everyone really gets into it and claps along lol. We walked in to Oasis wonderwall and was really cool. I love oasis!
All the group got drinks in but as per I stook to the water. Everyone was inquisitive as to why I wasn't drinking, but I don't give in to social pressure easily. Didn't want to sound stingey and say because of the money, so just said 'I don't fancy it'. Although a bottle of beer is only £1 if I can live for cheaper the better. We talked about music and films as well as language as the group was really diverse. Haha found out there is no translation for 'excuse me' in Indian lol. There was a really good vibe and everyone was enjoying themselves, every song was a classic so you could easily sing along and join in, lots of Beatles etc. By this time Elma was quite timpsy and it was funny watching him dance to the music. The company of the Indian guys was especially good. We were talking about the ashram, to which one of them replied, 'you have your ashram, I have my ass and my rum'. Plenty of laughs and high fives soon followed. Added another two nationalities to the list in the form of Romanian and Norway. Haha the group has also developed a new catchphrase inspired by some Indian guy who they met on their roadtrip…. Full power - 24 hour!
Haha on the night back at Shiva Layna asked if I had moved out of my old horrible room I was telling her about before. The ironic thing was she asked this as she was opening the door of my old room. I said 'no, you're walking into it!'
13/10/2013
Went to the cliff to get a new wallet, bought a nice one for 200rs. Returned to Shiva to say bye to Adrian, and we all got a group picture which was nice. Jayan gave him some business cards to distripute when he left. Not one person at shiva has came from an independent discovery. Everyone is either their as their friend recommended it, or they met some who mentioned it etc, which is good and how it should be. We all had a game of basketball in the garden, and afterwards hit the beach. I didn't fancy it so kicked back and chilled on my laptop and tried to sort some stuff, like backing up pics and the train registration. By this time it was dark and some germans lasses turned up, one Austrian, quite girls who were here for uni work or something, but had took a detour to varkala for a little bit of a holiday too. Soon followed were two dutch guys, Owker and Marine. Man I love the dutch! Just the most funniest down to earth nation on the planet. We said we would meet them later at Chillout. I told Elma and he was happy. Later we went to this new restaurant which tonight was its first night. They were still a bit ropey, some of the stuff on the menu was not available and the service was a bit iffy at times. I got a prawn curry, was nice but nut very substantial. Met the Canadian brothers and Jason absolute rinsed the US so much it was unreal. Ryan was just to his right but this didn't deter him at all. Hes actually a pretty educated guy and could talk a good talk, knew loads about footy as well as well as plays it which was refreshing. Seen Sonia walk past but didn't bother springing out my chair to go chase her. Later went to chill out and met the Dutch guys. Man these guys were so funny, they felt so British and spoke such good English. Although there Aussies a yank and a Canadian in the group give me a European any day. Yes we share the same language with these people, but everyone speaks English anyway so it doesn't matter. Met a German guy as well who was cool. The live music was playing and everyone enjoyed it. When it gets late everyone moves out the back for the afterparty where there's an emphasis on joining in with the singing etc.
14/10/2013
Today the weather was perfect all day, did not see one cloud all day. Every day I walk down the cliff and just outside a certain café offers the perfect vantage point to see all the way down the southern coast, cliffs just stretching to absolute infinity. Went back to the shop to swap my wallet for another, the spaces for the cards were too small. The wifey in the shop is called Sharon and she always tries to get me to buy something for 'goodluck'. But we all know it's the rupees she's after bless her, shes a funny lass. Went to the atm for some money and it only worked on the third machine. The best thing about withdrawing money is by far the AC. These are small walk in rooms and they're always ice boxes. Whilst mooching down to the beach I bumped into Sonia again, and it was nice seeing her and having a chat. Shes said she'll be at the beach tomorrow. The beach so busy when I got their, its always at its busiest at around 4-5pm. Had a go of CK's body board which was great fun and played footy with Elma. On the night went for food with the three Dutch and was honestly hilarious from start to finish. Marine and Owker literally are the funniest lads. Went for a little dance in the rock n roll café after, they were place house/ techo music which suited all. Was a bit naff, but its whats you make of it. There was a small pocket of Indians on the dancefloor and they couldn't believe it when the smoke machine started haha. We went to chillout after but it was empty, no music tonight so no one was t
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Chris Boooom!! Shiva!