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30/09/2012
Awoke very early (8am) to check out. 24hr checkout is common here in India so since I arrived at 10:30am on my first day that's what time I got booted out three days later. Handed over my brown bag, trainers and earplugs to the guy who worked there as a 'gift' (kind of?) and left to buy a train ticket over the road. Had a quick shoot to a phone shop who said he would sell me a sim but he was closed. Typical. Went to a place called babas and bought a phone for £60. Tried everything to knock something off the price but couldn't even get one rs. Tried the old walking out the shop trick but was left a fool when I returned 2mis later. Couldn't go a day without another camera so just went for it. Was quite a nice one, 16 odd megapixels. Could have got a 20 megpixel one for the same price but only took recharable double A batteries, looked abit iffy.
Anyways, got to the platform nice and early and waited with crowd, there was a bit of a rush to get on and I was relieved when I saw another white guy. I asked him where he was going and he said Varkala. Nice one! Turns out he was a Brazilian guy called Kiko. He was 45 but had a youthful appearance, and was his third time in India. He said he had been stopping at an ashram, its kind of like nunnery where people live together in a complex, do yoga, meditate, do some work. Rooms are only meant to be 100rs and you get 3 meals a day, you have to do about 2 hrs graft but its not a bad deal. He gave me lots of advice on railways, all things India things etc and was good to pass the 30mins train ride. He was obviously a well seasoned travelled when he revealed he doesn't use toilet paper anymore, but his left hand. He said everyone's really chilled out and friendly in Kerala, and to be fair he was right, everyone so far was very helpful and friendly. He says you wouldn't need to worry about getting your bag nicked on the train, as the majority of the people are Hindu, meaning they have a big concern around karma and such an act would be unlikely. He also gave me a little snippet of paper with a link printed on, he explained which ever traveller gets the most likes wins 100k to do a world adventurer. He must hand them out to everyone lol.
He then took me to the shiva garden homestay, a place down a beaten track with lots of puddles in the bumpy road. The place was great, free wifi, a great communal area and very cheap rent. On arrival I was greeted by Sonia, the Portuguese owner. She was very helpful and explained how she came to live here and showed me round the rooms. I picked the cheap 250rs room over the 350rs one (haha cheap skate). Not as bright as the other room but what the heck. It had a mozzie net overhead and a tie die as a blanket. The tap constantly leaked into a massive bucket as well, which I empty every day. It's a wet room so no biggy if it goes over.
Me and Sonia then had a sit down chat where she gave advice on where to go next, and how to get there. Very useful! Met other travellers, Iqbal, an English born Indian who the mirror image of a black john lennon, lucy who was a very plain girl but spoke excellently and clearly, shes apparently welsh but very posh, and her travelling partner Nick. He was very quiet at first, but a great guy. Ryan, the soundest friendliest yank known to man, glasses, likes to surf, quite stereotypical… from California, gets on with everyone, lots of jokes and funny. And Sarah, an Essex lass with long hair, quite ditsy but so canny. We soon left for a temple, and was a good bonding exercise. It was in dedication to some guy who chilled a local sectarian war/dispute about a 100 year ago, so was built in honour of him. Was meant to see something called a pooja, a fire festival but we were too early. Took a little walk and ended up chilling on this weird roof overlooking some farms with the sunset coming down. Was quite an odd moment and couldn't believe I was hear and this was real!
Went back to the hotel, Iqbal is a very intellectual guy who is big into philosophy, he was chatting to Sarah about deep questions, Aristotle and 'form'. Very bizarre, felt like saying give over! Went for some food along the Varkala strip, hungry eye kitchen. Its raised up so everyone gets a great view of the sea. There was endless dots of light on the horizon of ships and fishing boats. You couldn't see where the sea ended so it looked almost like star constellations, or even another city. Went for some drinks afterwards. Was very very enjoyable.
01/10/2013
Itched the hell out of my leg the night before and arose to find it looking like the elephant man. Woke to find an Aussie girl who had just arrived, she had been working in Bhutan for 6 months for the red cross. Went for an explore down the beach, there's a strip full of restaurants, shops and hotels on the cliffs, which eventually lead down to black beach. Talked to a local fisherman at the bottom who was fixing nets, and saw guys herding lots of cows too. Never seen a cow and a beach together! There was also a crazy snake charmer doing his show on the narrow path when I walked back, had to jump past the cobras! Later on Iqbal was giving lectures to group on ayurvedic medicine. Kerala is famed for this here, on the strip there a lots of people selling this and offering ayurvedic massages. Apparently Iqbal's got a degree in it back home. They asked me if I would like to join in but I passed. He was talking about earth wind and fire and all that jazz… haha yeah whatever pal!
Got food later. Im quite clued up on music, but these guys literally knew every song, every artist and lyric. Felt like a newbie. We named every California song we could think of. Got about 15.
Went to my room and chilled all night, signed up to this blog!
02/10/2013
Today was really good, went to a restaurant called Little Tibet. Got a nutella and banana pancake for 80rs (80p). haha that's the good thing about the India, the conversion is so easy at the mo. Met a guy called Michael, a sweedish guy of hawian decent, muscular type guy, really long hair, moustache, who was here for the surf as well as an aussie and a brit who had also been stopping at the ashram on the cheap. Normally type of ladish lads. Had a homemade authentic chicken curry from the homestay later. Came with 4 chapatis, thin nan bread type things. Bought a kingfisher vest from the strip for £3 (got to buy a top with the local tipple on!). Today was also Nick's birthday, so we threw a surprise birthday party for him. Sarah gathered a rug for the main picknick blanket, and used doormats as seats. She rounded up all the candles and set up everything on the roof of the little apartment block. She bought a big chocolate cake with coconut shavings on top, and bought everyone two big kingfishers, as well as made a 'happy 29th birthday Nick' bunting (however we soon figured this could also spell happy 29th d*** brain, so this was changed). We had a little speaker linked up to an ipod and was a great way to spend the night, endless palm trees around us, nice hot sun, good company. It eventually got dark, the group hadn't eaten and decided to hit the strip for some food. I thought I'd kick back and save my money as I had already eaten earlier. Went to my room, had a shower and read the more of my book, the 7 habits of highly effective people. Been a good read so far and I'm taking lots from it. Apparently it's shifted over 20million copies.
03/10/13
Had a nice lie in today, didn't do much. Browsed around on facebook etc, checked out some stuff online and got another one of them awesome curries! Shiva garden really is a garden, theres these big black crows that always chill here, massive butterflys that gracefully flutter past, millipedes, spiders, yesterday I saw a mongoose, and one of the gang was showing a pic of a peacock casually mooching threw the garden lol! Its enclosed so not quite sure how that got in haha. Oh and when we at the temple we seen a gigantic fruit bat swoop down, hang on a coconut tree and started tucking in. kinda had a orange belly, was crazy
The place is very nice though, there is a nice communal area, a little book stand, a volley ball net, punch bag, hammocks, basketball net, outside toilets and a very big swing. Very cool. Theres also free wifi which is really decent. There's a speaker which constantly plays local Indian tunes, as well as westernised nice soothing ones. Makes for a very nice ambiance.
Went for some drinks on the night and Iqbal gave a lecture on ayurvedic medicine. He covered the 6 stages of being ill, as well as how taste influences the digestion system as well as your wellness. Not even going to lie I've never heard so much unadulterated s*** in all my life! But hey ho, I sat there quietly and listened in inattentively. The gang were already quite clued up on it off past lectures and they really found it interesting and even had a notebook to take notes, asking questions etc. It didn't sound completely wacko jacko, I guess there was some method in the madness, but it's still a load b******s. But fair play to Iqbal though, he was so well knowledged in this area and was a great teacher, and in fact did make it very interesting. He literally rambled for a good hour, 2 hours, effortlessly. Granted the guy works in a book store, but honestly he had a lexicon like I've never heard. Very astute. You could see how a 1000 years ago before the advancement of modern science this stuff would really catch on, and at the time would have been perfectly plausible; an intellectual guy, endless knowledge, answers, why wouldn't you believe it?! I guess this would have been how the start of the three main monotheisms would have started as well all them years ago, you can see how this stuff would catch on, as well as how these intuitions would/could get very rich in the process. Whilst not my thing I guess this was the whole package of traveling though, to meet people who are cut of different cloth and have different interests. Was a story to tell.
Anyways, got some food from hungry eye kitchen again. Afterwards, apparently there was some spice girls tribute act or something like that at some bar down the road. They left to go check it out but I called it a night. Still feeling very frugal with my money.
04/10/2013
Today was another awesome day. Went to the cash machine and got some money. Got another pancake from little Tibet. Back in Shiva garden had a game of basketball, badminton, as well as had a go on the swing for the first time lol. An Italian-Canadian guy also mooched in and enquired about rooms, he also asked where the beach was and Jayan (the owner) told him. I knew he probs would have got lost I volunteered to show him. Once again he had also been at the ashram (turns out ryan had been there earlier too, everyone loves the ashram!!!). Turns out a woman called Ama was in town, apparently the most holiest person ON EARTH, a real big deal. Ama means mother. Apparently she draws huge crowds and HUNDREDS of thousands of people had came to see her. Turns out shes doing a big world tour and shes in London next. Shes also the 'hugging Saint' and everyone who turns up are guaranteed an embrace. I asked if she was kind of like the pope of the Hindu religion and he explained shes more like mother Teresa, shes not appointed. He explained she took over from some geezer who the Beatles used to hang out with, who's now 'no longer in the physical body' (i.e. dead). Haha you really do have to take these people with a pinch of salt! He was also found it funny when I told him I only found out what an ashram was a few days ago, he explained this was one of the main reasons people come. He also explained Varkala was dead at the moment. This is low season, and I still think its really busy! He says once it picks up all the prices double and you cannot move on the cliff. The tide also goes right out and the beach becomes huge again. Was wondering why it looked oddly small haha.
Later on went down the beach with Ryan and met up with the gang, this time around 5pm. The beach was chock-a-block, full of tourists. People playing football, reading books, playing in the water. Haha found it funny how the lonely planet advised about conservative dressing for women. Not a chance of it, bikini bods left right and centre, minus the coconut trees you would think you were in Greece/spain. Had a venture into the sea with the lads too. This was the first time I'd ever been in surf waves and was amazing! They hit you like a wall and if swim in the direction they're going you can surf it out haha. Gave amazing views of the coast. Thought to my self this is life!!! Also bumped into who else but my good man kiko! Hadn't seen him in Shiva for a while and he explained he had moved to the taj mahal hotel or something. Was good seeing him again and he told me you can sim cards from the sea front.
Chilled on the beach as the sun slowly set, the lifeguards blew their whistles for everyone to come in, and we decided to get some food. Went upstairs in Traitorias and our chairs faced out over the balcony. There was lovely red Chinese lanterns above us which created a nice ambience and the sea breeze cooled us down. I looked out towards the boats again and thought to myself that might be me one day looking back…. Who knows. Got the best fish dopiaza curry of my life for bait. UNREAL. Haha Iqbal later pondered how much it would cost for a rickshaw from Varkala to New Dehli hahahaha, one of them had to be there moments.
Later got chatting to Michael, hes not in Shiva so haven't really spoke to him. Turns out he's big into his surfing as well, and spends a month back home and then a month around the world surfing. Panama, Indonesia, Mexico, where ever. He also owns and runs a clothing company called Uniforms for the Dedicated, so hes pretty mobile as long as hes got a laptop and wifi. He also explained he gives talks on sustainable clothes production at various fashion weeks around the world, as UFTD is a green/ethical orientated company.
Later on back at shiva got a shower and went to the other peoples rooms and had a jam. Iqbal plays guitar, Nick was on the bongo drum which Sarah had bought earlier, and Ryan whipped out a jotter of loads of lyrics/ songs/ stories/ doddles he wrote when bored in Taiwan and just randomly ad hoc sang over the top. Was a really cool moment and very fun. Kind of painting a really hippy picture at the moment, but they're honestly really not, trust me haha. Just sound normal people. Nick and Lucy leave tomorrow; Lucy gave me lots of advice about her past travels across Indian. She was here for 3months before. Literally is the canniest most honest person I've came across, such a sweet lass. She was also in SEA for 2 months so that was really helpful too. Made me just want to speed up time and gain all these amazing experiences which are in store.
Lucy then explained she'll go back home eventually, but she's she can see herself not settling, and will no doubt up sticks and go teach English somewhere out in Asia. She said it so casually and it made me think just how nomadic the little gang was. Ryan had lived in Taiwan for two years, and Nick, Lucy, Iqbal and Sarah had all left their jobs just to be here. Even though they had been before they were still drawn back to India, it wasn't a first time venture. I guess their economic prospects back home weren't that great, and you can understand the appeal of just getting away from it all. I like traveling but I hope I don't get that addicted.
Was a shame to say bye to Nick and Lucy but will keep in touch for sure.
05/10/2013
Beat my PB today and didn't get out of my pit until 2:40pm. A nice air conned room… lazy days… it all makes sense haha. I'm still in UK time is my excuse ;) don't think the gang quite understood when I said I like to sleep. Went to get my two chocolate banacakes for 'breakfast' and had a stroll down to the beach. Past every clothes shop en route sits a local Indian girl who tries to draw the punters in. "you like nice t-shirt?" "Very good price" "just take a look, looking is free"… yeh pet I expect it to be. Another quaintness of the strip is the booze. All alcoholic drinks come wrapped up in newspaper or a serviette, and we are often told to keep them on the floor whilst we eat. You'll also get a nice mug so hide the contents. This is because none of the restaurants bother obtaining the expensive alcohol licenses. None of the two bother me that much, a key thing to remember is that we're not in Europe. There's no such thing as state hand outs if times were to get tough.
Had a nice game of badminton with Jayan back at Shiva, as well as one with Apu, a 16 year old who also lives and works at Shiva. Really cool funny guy.
Then whilst in the communal area… Lucy turned up! Turns out they decided to stay for another two days in the morn. Good news.
We went to the cliffs for food. I got a fish jal frezi. The fish is so fresh here. Being on the coast fishing is big business. Its literally so tender it just crumbles when you try to pick it up. The others left, and me and Iqbal kicked back to watch the Liverpool game. I asked how he came to support Liverpool and got the stereotypical glory support story. "my dad…" "supported them before the glory days". As if any way validating the genuine links, blah blah. Nipped back to shiva to get my ipod, came back and the rugby was on!!! Some kiwi was right down the front for it, glued. Went back to the shiva and we're winning 1-0 thus far so come on!
- comments
Mam Love reading your blog. I can half imagine I am there. Keep on doing what you are doing. Love you xx mam.
Chris Iqbal is a right guru!
Glenn Looks like you're having a great time Mark! Keep up the good work. Really touching to read, especially when I have to be up for Uni in 7 hours :( ha. Stay safe, much love x
Dave Ogleby Sounds fantastic Mark, always wanted to go to India. Bring me a take-away on your way back. (Chinese or Thai, if it's not too far out of your way). Try to ignore the footy results from back here.
Mark Laws Yeah India's been amazing so far, its a bit of an attack on the senses at times but the experience you get and the people you meet are like no other. Fingers crossed for SAFC....