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Stefanie's Travel Journal
We made it back to Nepal. The town of Zhangmu is on the border of China and Nepal and approximately 150 km from Kathmandu and it took us 12 hours to get through customs and immagration and drive to Kathmandu yesterday. What a crazy day.
I woke up around 7am in Zhangmu and was surprised to find it was pitch black (even the lights from the brothels were out by then. Did I mention what an interesting border town Zhangmu turned out to be after dark??). Then I was reminded that we were on China time (they only use one time zone across the entire country so although we were physically much closer to Kathmandu (2.25 hours earlier) we were on Bejing time) so it was as light as it should be at 5:30 am. So I just got a short walk in before our group headed out around 9am to get in line for Chinese customs.
Four hours later we finally got our passport stamped by a not-so-friendly Chinese official and we began our journey across the border. Our Tibetan drivers drove us down the steep hill pretty close to the Friendship Bridge which is the border. We said good bye to them, put our packs on and walked across the border. (Showing our passports one more time to a Chinese official, just to be sure).
Then we we left the organized but maddingly slow world of China for the chaos that is Nepal. The immigration building on the other side of the bridge is a ramshackle shack and the concept of a line is totally unheard of. The place was packed with tourists, bags, and guides (I have a picture I'll upload). Our guide pushed his way to the front and a mere 40 minutes (which was really quick compared to other tourists) we had Nepalese visas and were on our way.
We walked quite a ways along the river and finally met our Nepalese bus driver. It seemed kind of crazy to take a bus on that dirt 'road' (I'd really use that term losely for the collection of dirt and rocks on the edge of the cliffs) but it seemed to work. About 6 hours later, after a stop at a hot springs for quick showers (with our group, some local women, and some perplexed monks), and a delicious Nepalese lunch with some unpleasant atmosphere (lets just say that sewage flows whereever necessary in Nepal and if it runs next to your lunch table then too bad for you. Dave has a great picture of my expression and what I thought of this.. I'll see if I can get it and post it) we were finally back at the Tibet Guest House in Kathmandu. Except for friends and family it was kind of like coming home. I recognized where we were in town as we came in and past 'my park where I run in the mornings' and other familiar sites. And we were so excited to get to the hotel that had soap and towels and was warm and did laundry!
We dropped our bags and headed out to our last group dinner. We went to a Nepalese restaurant with traditional food, seating (on the floor) and dancing. We had a good time toasting our guide and even got pulled into the dancing!
We went out to Tom & Jerry's bar (recommended by the guide for the Dutch tour - remember him?) but because of the long day and the time change we only stayed out until about midnight. It was a quiet night for this group but it was a nice night.
Dave and John & Karen headed out today (Dave is headed home to Melbourne and John & Karen headed out to see some other areas of Nepal for about a week before going home). The rest of us stayed in town today and had a lazy day of shopping, lunch, laundry, email, running (just me) and other miscellaneous chores.
We are going rafting tomorrow as Nepal has some of the best rafting in the world. And then I head out on Saturday to India.
I'll tell you about rafting tomorrow before I head out.
And I uploaded a few more pictures and some new ones to go with old journal entries.
OK - Now the long version. Here are some random thoughts I had and things I'll remember about Tibet:
- The variety of landscape and how it reminded me of places at home or places I'd been and made me appreciate the diversity in America. We drove through sand dunes surrounded by mountains that could have been in Death Valley, we saw rocky mountains with trees that reminded me of Aspen, CO, we drove through lush gorges with waterfalls that reminded me of Hawaii and once we got into Nepal the ground got red like it is in Kaui. The smell of the air in these lush areas reminded me of the forest floors in Northern California. And of course the snow reminded me of Tahoe. The farms were beautiful with the mountains surrounding them. The vibrant blue sky everywhere was unique to Tibet though - I have never seen such a consistently beautiful blue sky and I will remember that.
- I will remember the toilets in tibet and I never got used to them. Squat toilets, water everywhere, most people don't even bother to use the toilets and just go anywhere (and I mean anywhere!). Toddlers are even dressed in these pants with a whole through the crotch and no diapers - they just squat anywhere they need to and go. Toilet paper is not considered necessary - its a novelty that silly westerners use. Toilets are quite an experience and about the only thing in Tibet I didn't enjoy - but I'll remember it.
- Sky burials. I think I told you about these. I told my group and I"m telling you all just in case it comes up - I'm on board with the cremation idea (after I donate some organs) but the sky burial I really don't want. The idea of those birds picking at me gives me the creeps - some of you know that's like a nightmare for me.
- Swastikas everwhere. The swastika is an ancient Buddhist symbol. And a 'reversed' swastika is the symbol for the Bon religion which predated Buddhism in Tibet. So there are both kinds of swastikas everywhere - on cars, doors, temples, etc. Its hard for a westerner to get used to but it is a postive symbol of peace and the unity of the world here. I heard a rumor that Hitler 'borrowed' the swastika for the Third Reich because he wanted to build on that symbolism of unity and eternity but he perverted it to unity for one race only.
- Walking to school with the kids in Lhasa. It was such a universal activity. It was nice.
- The soda here all tastes funny. Diet is a foreign concept in Tibet (as it was in Thailand - there I think the women are all too thin and here everyone works too hard all day and burns so many calories that they stay fit naturally). And whatever soda you do get tastes a little off from the water I guess.
- The chinese are hosting the 2008 Olympics. If you didn't know it you'd sure know it once you go to China. Even in the remote towns in TIbet there are signs for the Olympics and signs announcing the official noodle company or the official bank of the 2008 Olympics. What a show they are going to put on for that!
- I won't forget the genuine smiles of the Tibetan people. You see it in guide books and postcards but its so true. The Tibetans, old, young, man, woman, in cities and the country give you the nicest smiles (with the whitest teeth! we think they eat a healthy diet since the don't get regular dental care) and genuinely say hello for no reason other than to be nice. It is so nice and welcoming. These have to be the warmest, nicest, most genuine people I've met traveling. There was very little hassling although there was a little more begging as we got to more remote and poorer towns like Lhatse and Lao Tingri. But overall people were just genuinely interested in talking to us, waving when we went by and smiling those beautiful smiles.
- I won't forget our cars stopped waiting for the cow/sheep/dog/yak/rooster/goats to cross the road. I'm not making these up - we waited for each and every one of those at least once.
- I couldn't wear my contacts at the highest altitudes without getting headache. I have astigmatism and my contacts are shaped and it felt like a suction cup on my eye and gave me the worst headaches for the first few days. Ifigured it out after about two days and wore by contacts until we got to Base Camp and from then on I was fine. Very annoying though - most of you have never seen me with my glasses on, for good reason =)
- China drives on the same side of the road as the US (Nepal drives on the other side - like Australia!)
- The Chinese ability to build is amazing. They have roads and street lights and cell phone coverage all the way to the remote border. My cell phone worked in every town except Base Camp (which isn't really a town) and Lao Tingri. The Chinese have even rebuilt destroyed buildings with creepy accuracy. Its strange to walk around a temple and have it look and feel and sound like its from the 7th century but know it was rebuilt in '89.
- The Tibetans love pool/billards. There are tables everywhere - most of them outside and not in great shape but being used. In Lhatse there must have been 100 tables on one street and it took me all of about 25 minutes to walk that entire town. I have pictures of the locals in all the towns playing pool.
- I told you how much I liked the carpet factory in Shigatse. If you want to hear moer about it ask me - I like to talk about it
- Our guides and drivers gave us all Tibetan names (I think because our names were as hard to pronounce for them as theirs were for us). My Tibetan name is Nema which means Sun. Which seemed appropriate being from CA =) Cal's name was Dorgi which means male power. Dave was Thingri which means long life. Vickie was Dickie (unfortunate spelling) which means happiness. Michelle was Gama which means grandmother because she will be a first time grandma a few months after she gets home. Sarah and Karen were named after the white and green goddesses respectively but I couldn't pronounce their names. (Sarah is a goreous 25 year old and all our drivers had a crush on her. The white goddess is a special symbol as I understand it). And John's name meant Star. Our group made up nicknames for each other after a long night of drinking. Mine was simple and cute - Dora - which had the dual meaning of Dora the explorer (since I'm off exploring by myself) and because I took so many dang pictures of doors! You'll see!
- There is huge discrimination in China/Tibet. A Chinese road worker will earn about 130Y/day and a Tibetan road worker will earn about 25Y/day.
- I learned that we were pronouncing Tashi's name wrong. He was a great Tibetan guide and lots of fun once he warmed up to us. We all missed him when we said goodbye to him. I'll never forget him doing the Yak dance.. I'll try to post a picture. He was hard to catch doing it!
- I won't forget Gasen, this kid we met at the top of one of the passes. He sells prayer flags and papers and lives there. He was lots of fun to talk to and a really nice kid. I'll post some great shots Vickie and David took of him. I hope things work out for him.
- I won't forget making wishes at the Natural Buddha or at the top of the highest pass.
- Or throwing prayer papers (loongda) at the highest pass with our group. I'll post a great photo of us doing this.
- Honking! Tibetans, like Italians, honk to announce they are coming. They honk when they drive down the road and someone is walking along the road - its like a warning - don't step out, I'm coming and you've been warned. Honkning everywhere. It was almost as bad as a flat tired when our horn went out along the way. It was fixed up right away.
- The Tibetan custom of giving white silky scarves for hello, goodbye, safe journey, and congratulations. Then the recipient can leave those scarves places for good wishes or keep them.
- Singing! Tibetans love to sing. Our guides and drivers were always singing whether there was music on or not!
- Dogs everywhere. Some are pets but most are wild and uncared for. Those look very unwell. But many farm families have dogs they keep. Gelu said his family has three - one for the yak (yup thats what he said!) and two for the house. I assume he means to protect the yak and the house =)
- Walking along the Friendship Highway. Most of the towns we stopped in are just buildings along both sides of the highway so often when we wanted to walk around town or go to dinner we'd be walking in the highway (often with dogs and chickens and cows and bikes and lots of other people and not too many cars). And often the highway is just a dirt road for hours on end. And we frequently saw people stopped in the road, hanging out talking or even having a picnic. We had to keep reminding ourselves we were on the largest highway between Tibet and Nepal. =)
- Cats in restaurant. This caused endless amusement for us as Michelle is terrified of cats and I am highly allergic. We frequently had to ask the owners to come take the cat off the table/chair/etc and then our dinner would come much more quickly =)
- I now think in 'Australian'. breakie, sunnies, average & ordinary, dodgy, ol mate, wee, uni, telly, holiday, and specs have become common vocabulary for me!
I loved the scenery, the food, the people, the history, the religion, and found the political situation intriguing in Tibet. I couldn't recommend it more.
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