In over four decades of travelling, I have never witnessed a city so surreal as Naypyitaw. Built in the early years of this century by the military leaders, it was opened in 2006 as the new capital city of Myanmar. It is a city on a vast scale and with huge wide avenues and government buildings. Local people were displaced to make way for this project which is estimated to have cost many billions of dollars. It is situated in the heart of the country and feels ...

Foreigners were not permitted in this area until 2015 because of the conflict between the military and Karen armed groups. Thandaungyi is a hill station founded by the British colonials in 1854 and is a major Christian pilgrimage place. But, let's not get ahead of myself. First stop after a six hour train journey is Taungoo, arriving on the back of a motorbike in the dark to the grandly named Hotel Beauty 2. Very good it is too with lovely fresh fruit picked fro...

The concept of 'pop-up' is not new here in Yangon. A couple of months ago, a Buddhist shrine with platform and speakers and music appeared overnight at the end of my little lane. Monks recited teachings there all day and as quickly as it appeared, it was gone. And now, within a few hours of work, a street market has appearecd. Among the first things I notice are fake fake football shirts at £1.20 each (the usual price of a genuine fake is £3.00!) The...

In a very poor northern township, IWD has come to town. A joint program with four NGOs including my own WON colleagues. The event is held on a parched playing field and a temporary stage and coverings for the seated audience have been erected. Following speeches from a Government minister, trades union leaders and others, there is drama, music and dance. My former colleagues at Akhaya reprise their 'eye of the tiger' Katy Perry song. This time I sit and watch...

This morning I take another walk along the sand to the pagoda. It is such a peaceful natural place built into the rock outcrop and painted golden. I don't know how long it's been here but it's very much part of the community on the beach. Inside, I sit to meditate for a few minutes savouring this time in the Ayeyarwady division. I come out and then about 30 schoolchildren gather round and I hear the word 'foreigner' - a sure sign that photos and selfies are on...