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The 4 hour bus from El Calafate to El Chalten was a doddle - I´m getting good to these heroic bus journeys. The main draw of sleepy Chalten - bleak even in the summer - is the world class hiking to be had on the nearby Fitzroy range.
My preferred lodgings for my vist night was full that night but i manage to book in for the nextand following nights. I trapesed around the (tiny) town before I found a hostel that was recommended by Lonely Planet but turned out to be a real dump, did those guys actually stay there? Still, I emerged the following morning well rested and booked into my preferred option.
That afternoon was the first of two hikes, this one the easier 6 hour (round trip) to the Torres Lagoon. Was peaceful and beautiful, and I also enjoyed the tranquility of the solitude and have a big open space to myself for a change.
Arrived back approx 19.00 to my hostel - the gung ho Ranchio Grande. This place is the local mecca for Gore Tex clad hiking nutters from around the world, though it didnt take me long to hook up with a couple of T shirt and short clad Aussies and an English guy. Our group soon multiplied from 4 to 20 as clearly we were the only group up for a beverage or 7, so we soon had half the tables to ourselves. Nothing too heroic though as we all had hikes planned for the next day.
Got off to a late start the following day as I had to change rooms (due for a fumigation or something) and therefore had to hang around until midday. The trek for the day was the more challenging Three Lagoons, which takes you right up to the Fitz Roy base camp from where serious climbers attemp the granite summit. The last part was nearly verticle and quite challenging, especially as the wind had picked up - nearly got blown clean off the mountain on more than one occassion. Still, I was rewarded with three beautiful green lagoons and a waterfall for my efforts. One of the Aussies had been swimming in there the day before, pure glaciar water just above freezing - nutter!
Back to the Ranch and I was truly pooped. However, we all hooked up again and this time got right on it. We drank in the hostel then headed to a nearby Microbrewery, great little watering whole! We laughed ourselves senseless as one of the Aussies got beaten at chess by a 7 year old. And what the hell was a 7 year old doing in a bar at 03.00 anyway?!
The next day everbody was limping around with strained legs, pulled backs etc from a couple of days hiking. Got the bus back to El Calafate, said goodbye to the boys and returned to Hostel i keu ken. Unfortunately all the dorms were booked but I made a deal for a cabin at a discount, we had got on well when we stayed there last time and he wanted to help me out. It was actually bloody lovely to have my own bed, kitchen and bathroom rather than sharing everything in the dorms. Best nights sleep I´ve had in a while - still aching from the trekking!
Just a couple of missions / errands today and tonight I stay at the Hostel Marco Polo, which is a bit bigger then i keu ken but boasts a pool table and a fully functioning bar. There´s a pizza night on there, all you can eat for 25 pesos but m going to give it a miss as I have to get up for the bus to Pt Natales in Chile at 07.00.
I´m still aching! Good to have the practice though, I´ll be 2 nights in Pt Natales, equip myself and get the local knowledge before the big 5 day trek around Torres Del Paine. Will be staying at a hostel called Erratic Rock, another gung ho gore tex place!
I´ve added some photos from Bariloche and El Calafate, El Chalten to come, and will add some more blog when I get back from Torres Del Paine next weekend.
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