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Dear all,
what a trip! You cannot imagine how much effort it took us to do this trip - and basically because the information in the Lonely Planet is incomplete about this part of Colombia. So we had a small inside in how it used to be traveling before this guidebook existed (we summarize our experience below / last section of this blog entry).
We have written you before that we were traveling together with Patricia and Juan, which was great because with four people you fill a car...But I start from the beginning: Lonely Planet states that it is nearly impossible to reach Punta Gallinas except for an organized tour. So we contacted the ones described and almost got unconscious hearing the prices. Nevertheless, we wanted to go. We thought that it would be easier to receive information when you go north. Well we did not get any additional info for a while so that we decided to go to Cabo de la Vela and see from there.
Cabo de la Vela is one of the main tourist attractions in the Guajira peninsula. Guajira is populated by the Wayu tribe. Wayus live in family clans and make their living mainly based on goats. Goats are the basis for food, but also their trade medium. The price of a new wife (they are polygamic) for example is quoted in goats and discussed with the aunt of the new wife - But no worries we are still only with the two of us ;). Wayus are also the main inhabitants of Cabo de la Vela. Probably it would also be difficult to survive in the hot desert for long if you are not used to it as they are.
In addition to the amazing scenery in Cabo de la Vela with the desert and the ocean, there are a few tourist attractions - mainly beaches. So we did small trekkings (quite exhausting though in the heat) from the small hut on the beach that we called our hotel to these places. Went for sunset to Ojo de Aqua (see photos) and for a day to the beach close to Pilon de Azucar. Especially the latter was quite an adventure. Making our way through the desert was taking quite some effort. Amazing what the Wayu call a "short walk" - it took us almost 2,5h. We took some time though passing a dried up salt lake on the way. Pilon de Azucar where the Wayu believe spirits live, is one of the three sacred places of the Wayu that together construct a triangular. We most enjoyed the beach close to it though. Especially after the long walk.
A little bit unpleasant was though that on the beach Anna cut her toe on something. The wound bleeded quite badly what scared not only us, but also the Wayu being close. And surprisingly they told us that there was a health center in Cabo de la Vela (which is a line of huts at the beach). And even more surprisingly just in that moment a car turned up with two tourists. We talked them into taking us to the health station right away. After the wound had been cleaned it looked half as bad and did not even have to be sewed. Lucky us!! And by now Anna can walk almost normal again - so no worries.
To get to Punta Gallinas we had been able to contract a driver in Cabo de la Vela. We went there the next day by 4 wheel drive. Even though it was quite a drive we were happy to not have done the trip by boat because others told us the waves were horrible. We passed through the three different types of deserts in Guajira and learned a lot about the Wayu from our driver Mikael. The funniest part about the traverse was paying the local children toll fees with sweets (fruit juice bars). Almost upon arrival we stopped at the Taroa dunes and were able to take a swim at the beautiful beach (with the spectacular dunes "dipping" right into the ocean!).
Punta Gallinas itself - and especially the area around our hut - was precious already for the contrast of colours (see photos): Yellow desert sand, shades of blue in the ocean, green of the mangroves and red from an old boat. From there we visited the most northern point of Colombia and actually South America, some nice beaches close by and some flamingos (by boat). It was really worth the effort - but we let the photos speak for themselves.
Today we are back from the detour and back in civilization in Santa Marta. After hanging out today, washing all our stuff, etc. we will head for Tayrona National Park before making our way into the interior of Colombia.
We will keep you posted! Let us know how you guys are - would be nice to hear something from the one or the other ;).
Yours Anna & Maarten
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How to get to Punta Gallinas without a tour:
The Lonely Planet is correct about how to get to Cabo de la Vela. However, as an alternative it is cheaper to take any bus in the direction of Maicao and get out at "Cuatro Vias". It is actually just a road crossing, but there is a restaurant and some souvenir shops there. From there transports pass to Uribia (COP 7000/ ride). Taking this second option you can avoid the transport monopoly in Riohacha that charges you COP 13000 / per person (on the paved road) to Uribia. 4 wheel drives leave from Uribia to Cabo de la Vela that charge you COP 15000/person with AC and COP 12000/person without AC. You can reach Cabo de la Vela with your own transport if it has not rained. You mainly follow a dirt road (very good condition in March 2013) along the railroad tracks to Puerto Bolivar. You might have to ask where to take the left to Cabo de la Vela, but its not that far from the road. The last part is in relatively bad condition, but we saw rented cars taking it.
You need to contract a driver with a 4x4 to go to Punta Gallinas. We asked the transport bringing us to Cabo de la Vela. He was willing to do so for COP 500,000. We asked around a little bit and compared cars (!). But the price per car was about the same. In the end we went with Mikael, who was recommended to us by the hostel we stayed at. He charged COP 150,000 per person from 4 persons onwards. We met other persons that wanted to go and negotiated down to COP 135,000. But in the end we went with 8 people - so the car was packed!! Maybe its worth paying a little bit more and go with max. 6 persons as you spend quite some hours in the car (4-5 hours to Punta Gallinas from Cabo). We arrived in Punta Gallinas in the afternoon and stayed 2 nights as you leave from there at 6am the last day. We needed about the whole day (around 12 hours) to get back to Santa Marta, including a stop in Palomino to pick up the rest of our luggage.
Hope the information helps!!
- comments
LMH Do you have any information on the people who provided the transportation? Love your article, can't wait to experience that trip! Thank you