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The overnight train to Delhi, hmmmm, where to start on this one, maybe give you a brief taste of Indian train stations in general. Blatantly, there are hoardes of people, some sitting in huge human piles, others streched out literally sleeping for the night, surrounded by their few meagre chattels. Trains come and go at seeming random, there are no signs or direction indicators - it's organised chaos, everyone says they know nothing, yet they all seem to get on the right train. You do get the customary announcement made over the tannoy, but who at any train station across the world, ever undestands that garbled muffled heavy breathing given through a hankerchief?
As trains pass by, chai boys on the platform hook their tea pots onto the side of the train, then nimbly and expertly leap on board without a moments hesitation, just so we can have a brew while we're on there - amazing. Then as a train stops at the platform there is a mad surge of frenzy as everyone shoves and pushes their way to the tiny tiny entrance doors - it's an elbows at dawn scenario here - and the trains often are already overstuffed with people, s arms and legs poke out of every available bit of space, through windows and doorways.
On the overnight train, we are in 3rd class - well it's for the true Indian experience, so our booth is completely open and offers no privacy. The err beds, consist of long spongey boards that act as seats during the day; the backrest of those seats pulls out, and hooks onto a dangling chain from the top bunk, and locks in to form the 3rd bunk, meaning six people in one compartment - cosy!
With some trepidation I go to check out the toilet, like so many toilets in India it smells of the mothballs they put in the sink, and it's blatantly a squatty, but what is interesting is that there is no flush. Why? you may ask, well it's basically because when the toilet comprises a hole that empties straight onto the rail track below, you don't really need one - mmm nice. It's quite surreal to see rail tracks whizzing by whilst you take a pee, but at least I can add to my list of interesting toilet experiences abroad.
Around 10pm, all the indians deceide it's time to go to bed, and that's it, all the lights are switched out. We sit talking in the dark for a while, but are forced out by all the indian shushes. I have an aisle bunk, which makes sleep fitful and sporadic, as through the night people shuffle past to go to the loo. Lights go on and off, kids and babies periodically scream & cry in that annoyingly incessant way.
Luckily we arrive at 5.30am unharmed, but then begins the mass exodus as people pour out of the train. Delhi train station is heaving, and we are part of the stampede, a trampling herd of wilderbeast, taking out anything in our path.
But I have survived the overnight train experience - next stop Delhi domestic airport.
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