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Started early this morning (it was still dark and also raining), but wanted to make it to Santiago in time for the pilgrim's mass at noon, and there was a big hill between here and there ;)
First time donning the headlamp (not sure if you can see it in the picture) and was glad to know that the arrows ARE reflective!! Whew.
I passed by the oldest cross in Galicia (the cruceiro do Francos) when it was still dark - but it was still impressive.
When the sun came up, it stopped raining, and it was exciting to see the km mark signs get lower and lower on the way. Also, there were additional signs painted as you got closer to Santiago. I started walking with new energy.
There was a lot of walking today over/under highways as you near the big city. Then, once you are in the outskirts, the arrows go away (yikes!). And you are also walking amongst all of the people going about their day in the city. It was kinda like I was all geared up like this and walking in downtown Chicago in the Loop. Odd. I also didn't see any other pilgrims for a while, so ducked into a store to make sure I was still going the right way. Luckily, I was!
At this point, I just kept asking if I was headed to the cathedral they kept pointing the way I was walking, which was good. As you get within about 6 blocks, the streets narrow and turn, and you are in the old town city. I kept looking up for the cathedral, but the buildings were so close I couldn't see it. I saw a beautiful fountain with horses on it and was intrigued. I headed towards it to take a picture, and when I glanced left - there it was!! The Cathedral of St James!!! All that searching, and it found me ;)
Things became a bit of a blur - I had just 15 minutes before mass, and I saw that backpacks were not allowed. I rushed to find a place where you could leave them. Reminded me of church where you leave the kids in Sunday school and pick them up after. I had separation anxiety as I left Bubba with all of the other packs. He really holds my whole world here, and it was hard to walk away with a small piece of paper with a number (guess I'm an overprotective parent!?)
As I walked in, they had already started the "pre-mass". The church was over capacity. I noticed my feet/blisters were not happy about no breaks today and started throbbing. There were folks seated on the base of the columns on the side of the pews. I found a spot and sat down.
All at once I realized I was here. At the Cathedral of St James. In all the last minute rush, I hadn't realized it (sounds silly, but true). The mass started, the cathedral was filled with music, and I was overcome with emotions. What a journey this has been - I can't believe I am really here. The poor guy in the pew next to where I was sitting (who witnessed this) was very sweet and put his hand on my shoulder for a bit.
The priest begins by reading how many pilgrims had arrived from which countries (in Spanish, but I got the gist). Since I have not yet gotten my Compostela, I will not be in today's count, but will be in tomorrow's numbers. Wow. I looked around - so many pilgrims - here for so many reasons, but all drawn to the same location by the same calling - the way of St. James. It was incredibly moving.
The church is under renovation and there are a lot of scaffolds. The roof is peeling in many places. Part of the church is so simple, and other places extremely ornate and full of gold and jewels. As I look around, there is so much to take in, and I plan to explore and perform my 4 steps* after mass.
Then, all at once the church became electric - you could feel the buzz that something big was coming. The rustling of people grabbing cameras, iPads, iPhones, etc, etc, and a security guard making all of the folks in the middle of the church sit down. The 6 men were starting the incense burner and began to tug on the rope that hung from the ceiling many stories up.
This was incredible - the reason the folks in the middle had to sit down is that it came so close as it swung through the church, they may have been hit. Then, it swung SO high you thought it might go through the roof. It had such force when it came through - back and forth - and the oohs and ahhs every time it reached the top, got slack, and swung back down even faster than before. I looked at the 6 full grown men, and it looked almost as if they left the ground each time it passed by, before they pulled all the way to the ground again. The church FILLED with incense to where it was almost hard to see. It was magnificent. Then, time to slow it down to a stop, and raise it back to it's resting position.
I'm not sure who donated for the incense to be in today's mass, but I was very grateful to whoever it was!
The mass ended, and I began my search for the 4 things to do. I went by the hand print in the marble, which was incredible. I went to the apostle and hugged him, put my head on his shoulders, and thanked him for getting me here safely and with no hospital visits (I know, odd, but this is what came to me!?). This is where it gets weird. I got a very strong feeling that I wasn't done - that I needed to say something more, but that I didn't know what that was yet. I can't describe it, but it was almost as if I heard it out loud (nope - haven't lost it - I know the statue didn't actually talk to me), but it became clear that I needed to complete my journey to Finisterre and Muxia and then return here again.
So, in keeping with my "follow the signs" mantra on this trip, I left the church (planning to return), picked up Bubba (he was just fine), took a quick photo with the funny pilgrim dog (who could resist?) and got in line to get my Compostela. It began raining and there were only 2 people working, so it took over an hour, but it was so much fun in line - seeing familiar faces and catching up.
When I got my Compostela (I was so excited) he wrote "Christina" Moen. I said, excuse me, but that is not the correct spelling. Oops. He very formally stated that this was a LATIN document (silly girl), and that THIS was my Latin name (mom & dad - did you know that? ;). Ha. So, Christina Moen it is!! Compostela was free, I sprung for the 2E tube to make it home safely.
When I popped out (you exit through the gift shop, of course!) I ran into Rolf and Isabella, and we went to dinner together. Had some amazing paella and beer, of course (those Germans!)
Treated myself to an actual "hotel" tonight - near the cathedral - complete with a queen size mattress (didn't think they made those here) and a TUB (which I was too tired to use). Made a reservation to return here the night before I fly home when I will DEFINITELY take advantage.
Off tomorrow to complete my journey. Will be back here in about a week. Excited to see what (if anything) will change!
* Tradition states that you do 4 things when you arrive at the cathedral in Santiago as a pilgrim;
1. Stand before the tree of Jesse, the central column if Master Mateo's masterpiece, the Entrance of Glory portico da Gloria. Millions of pilgrims, over the millennia, have worn finger holes in the solid marble (area now roped off, but so amazing to see).
2. Touch your brow to Master Mateo's brow (statue in construction zone - did at a distance ;)
3. Proceed to the high alter and hug the apostle. Lay your forehead on his shoulder and tell him what you came to say.
4. Proceed downstairs and kneel before the remains of St. James and offer a prayer.
Stats:
Start: Teo, Spain (7:30am)
End: Santiago de Compestela, Spain (11:45)
Miles: 13.1
- comments
Tom You made it! Woo Hoo! I'm so proud of you. What an accomplishment! I have to admit, I had tears rolling down my checks reading today's story. I love you!
Mom Ditto for what Tom's emotions were. We love you!
Nancy B Ditto what they said! So anxious to hear about the next leg of the journey! Great job with the blogs, "Christina" :) ...thank you for such wonderful, colorful descriptions of your experiences. Hugs!
ALINA Ditto!!! LLorando!! I will make you paella when you return!! Besos!!
Taylor! Wow! Reading these blogs has made me SO proud to call you my Auntie Kristi, or should I say Auntie Christina ;) I wish you a Buen Camino on the rest of your journey, you have me as well as my Spanish 5AP class cheering you on all the way. Love you very much!
Anne Congratulations, Kristi! Your accomplishments and spirits are amazing! I too have tears in my eyes after reading about your day! I am so very happy for you! I am grateful that you have decided to go on - can't wait to hear more!! All my best for continued safe and fun travels!
Cheryl My sister in law is so cool. Can't wait to share a few beverages and hear your stories. Happy trails lovely lady.
Glenna Great job, Kristi! So happy for you and this wonderful experience!
Diane So proud and humbled by your words! I think you brought us all to tears today. Now it is time to enjoy the rest of the time you have there. Would love to sit down with you when you get back and hear more about your wonderful journey!!! Sending ((HUGS)) and love!!
Jane O'S Wow Kristi, amazing, very emotional, feel like we went with you!Thanks for sharing your stories, glad you made it safe and sound
renee kubesh I'm so proud of you - you've found your way by following your heart! much love and kisses,felicitaciones!
julie I couldn't read this without crying! You did it!!!!
ray Congratulations Kristi, what a great life experience and fanastic end to the journey! I'm very happy for you. Thanks for sharing it with us, it felt like we were there too.
Cara Congratulations Kristi! I have been riveted to your blog... and have been fascinated, amused, and inspired by your journey .Thank you for sharing this with us. Enjoy the rest of your "walk'“, Cara