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Today is my day to enjoy Muxia - what a luxury - 2 full days in one place! The weather is absolutely beautiful. I'm so glad I have an extra day here. Not only because it is so beautiful, but there is such a great feel here - it seems the perfect place to take some time and reflect on my journey. The walking is over. Tomorrow I catch the bus back to Santiago, and from Santiago I head home.
I got going early to take full advantage. I really had no plans other than to make it to the top of the hill at the point, see the rest of the town, and repeat my sunset and dinner plans from last night. On my way out, I stopped to talk to Angel (the wonderful albergue "host"/owner) to ask where I should go today. He was such an amazing person (and such a fitting name) - seemingly doing exactly what he was made for and such a kind soul that exuded such warmth. Each time I walked past the front desk, not matter how busy he was with others, Angel would stop mid-sentence, smile, wave, and yell "Cree-Steee!!" and then continue with what he was doing. I think the other pilgrims figured we knew each other for years. While he didn't speak any English, he knew what I was asking this morning, gave me a map and pointed towards the beach - no words needed. The beach sounded perfect.
I found the beach at the end of a short walk through town. It was beautiful, and I was the only one there. As I stood on the beach, I looked out over the Atlantic and a thought struck me - home is directly across this body of water - nothing is between Spain and the United States from here but water. As I walked down the shoreline, I saw a small, perfect scallop shell. Of course, I had seen hundreds of yellow markers with this symbol painted on them over the last month, and also carried my own shell on my pack as all pilgrims did, so the symbol was already comforting to me. The scallop markers always pointed me in the right direction and got me to the correct destination. But this was the real deal, an actual shell from the ocean in Spain - and, wouldn't you know it, it was pointing directly out to sea - towards home. While saying goodbye to this journey is difficult, this was a sign that it was time for me to go home. I took off my shoes and sat down and enjoyed the sunshine on my face, the sand in my toes, and the sound of the waves gently rolling to shore.
After the beach, I walked around the town and harbor and grabbed an early lunch in the sun. Afterwards I walked right by the Albergue, so decided to stop and rest for a bit. I laid on my bed and actually fell asleep for a little while (a nap - what a treat!) - this was my first time in an Albergue for 2 nights, and it was good to have a place to call home during the day. There were a lot of pilgrims arriving, and Angel was showing them around just as he had shown me yesterday and countless others for years - I could hear them walk by as I drifted in and out of sleep. What happened next seems so small, but is one of my favorite memories of my trip. I awoke from my nap to find a wonderful fuzzy blanket draped carefully over me. I knew right away it was Angel - he saw me laying there as he passed with other pilgrims, and thought I needed it. With so many pilgrims coming and going, I felt such a special bond with Angel from the moment I checked in. This blanket was such a small and kind gesture that meant so much. The blanket felt like a warm hug from a dear friend and I layed there a little longer just soaking it up.
I couldn't find Angel, so folded the blanket and left it on his chair and headed out. I knew he or his wife would be back soon to find it. Off through town to get to the top of the hill. It was an easy climb, and the views just kept getting better and better until the top - where you could see the entire town of Muxia, the church, rocks and monolith at the bottom, and the ocean that surrounded the entire area. It was breathtaking. As I sat at the top alone, I made a concerted effort to try to brand what I was experiencing in my memory - the sun sparkling on the water all around me, the soft ocean breeze on my face, the mountains in the distance, the smell of the sea, and the quaint city below. It was the whole package - the culmination and the final point on my walk - I sat a long time to reflect on what got me to this point.
I realized how blessed I was to have had this opportunity. And I realized that this was what the Apostle was referring to - I had to leave Santiago and experience these last few days - my journey was no where complete without it - and then return when I was done. I thought back to my initial arrival in Santiago, and couldn't believe how much had happened since then. My time in Finisterre allowed me to let things go, and my time in Muxia filled me back up. I'm not sure how to describe it, but it felt physical - almost like a balloon - I was completely deflated (in a good way), and then was filled back up to capacity - almost to the point of bursting.
I knew that if I had gone to Finisterre & Muxia directly, while they are both still awe inspiring places, I would not have had this experience. The journey required each piece. I needed to walk to Santiago to get to know myself deeply and wear myself down. I needed to go to Finisterre to face what I learned and to cherish and also release it. I needed to go to Muxia to fill back up - to recharge my soul.
I had now come full circle and was ready to return. I had so much to tell the Apostle.
Tomorrow's choices in a bus back to Santiago are at 6:45am or 2:00pm. Think I'll opt for the 2:00pm - this gives me time to go back to both the beach and the point again before leaving.
- comments
olsonc58 Wonderful pictures.The lack of crowds makes for a much more serene viewing and helps capture the calm peacefulness of the area.