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I was going to leave this final blog until as close to the end as possible but since the internet cafe isn't very convenient I decided it was best to get it done and not be thinking about a blog but enjoying my last few days so this is the last time I'll be writing about Senegal. We left Kaolack last week which involved very teary goodbyes and has made me dread saying goodbye here too. I thought I'd be able to hold it together but there was no chance of that happening when it came to it! I can't believe I don't know when I might next be back there and able to watch Pape Alioune tilting his head sideways every two seconds or buying Moussa's thiakry to eat in the playstation shop at ridiculous hours. Kaolack has been a second home this year and everyone has always been so generous and welcoming. I really hope it doesn't change too much and one day I can go back and see everyone again.
Louise and I stayed 3 nights in Dakar with Sinead and joined her for her final night out in Dakar as she left last Wednesday with Gareth. Dakar was good fun and I got a good deal of souvenir shopping done but I had forgotten what real rainy season heat and humidity was like and suffered, particularly as the fan broke and I spent three days drowning in my own sweat and trying desperately to sleep but being woken up by cats falling through the window and the frogs singing their hearts out outside. Coming home was such a relief. My own bed, mosquito net, fan... and seeing the family and everyone else. Mariam was watching Dora the Explorer, her latest obsession, and, apart from one very diseased chicken, a few broken shutters and a lot of floods not much has changed; thankfully. We got home in time for the first day of Ramadan but weren't quite prepared to start fasting ourselves. Instead the first day we just ended up eating double as we had another breakfast at 7,30pm; the coconut donuts we'd spent all morning making and then a huge dinner. Over the last few days I think I've eaten all my favourite Senegalese food and more I didn't even know existed. People may not be eating or drinking but I swear they spend the whole day thinking about it, planning and preparing so that it's all worth it. I even had a CHEESE SANDWICH. A cheese sandwich. I'd fast any day for that. In fact we finally got around to the whole solidarity thing yesterday and experienced what it's like to be so hungry, so thirsty and so tired in this heat... and that was just one day. Salome has left too so that means there's a lot of housework and cooking to do and not that much time to rest. Anyone who can complete Ramadan has so much of my respect!
Aside from Ramadan there's been a lot of sorting out to do and we gave away a suitcase and a half of clothes and numerous boxes of chalk. This morning Khedja Mane took me to buy some powdered mbuy to take home and Aicha's niece, Mareme, who is here for the holidays, came to the market with us yesterday to get plenty of bissap, strange cooking utensils and another of what has been my very best friend this year - a hand-held fan. With all these preparations my departure is starting to get more and more real. I'll pack next week and hope it will all fit and not exceed the weight limit and then it'll be time to go... It's strange to think that 11 months ago I was arriving and really didn't know anything about what I was in for. And soon two more people will get to experience everything I have. Admittedly I'm a little bit jealous they'll be starting out on their year after mine has come to a close but at the same time it feels about time to go home. I'm going to miss so many things and I don't think I'll realise how much I'll miss them until I'm gone. I'll miss how everyone sits in the street all the time and there's always something going on outside, how people make crazy gestures when they talk, that yoghurt tastes so, so good when it's hot, 'Are you eating your money?' being a normal greeting, starry skies, beautiful sunsets and sunrises everyday, the constant presence of children, saying masse when someone is hurt, restaurants with green and red neon lights, sandy streets and every single kind of Senegalese food imaginable and a thousand and one more things I can't really begin to list properly. I might even miss having no toilet paper and using one of those stripey kettles that are found everywhere. But most of all I'll miss the people, our family, our friends who have made this year what it was. Incredible and soemthing I'll never ever forget. It'll be especially tough not knowing when I'll next see them or what might happen until the next time I can come back. I'm not looking forward to packing up and saying goodbye at all.
If it makes any sense, I don't want to leave but I do want to go. Leaving will be awful, really doesn't even bear thinking about, but at the same time, coming home will be something else altogether. I can't wait to get back to Scotland's dull days, to use a duvet and have a fridge full of food, a fruit bowl, running water and a strong, hot shower. To be able to walk down the street and blend in for once and have everyone speaking a language which I actually completely understand. But most of all I can't wait to see my family and friends again. This year has seemed to go very quickly in many ways but slowly in others and one of the slow ones has been not seeing anyone back home. I don't think I've ever been more excited to see people in my life!
So congratulations to those of you who have managed to sit and read this for one whole year and not get too tired of my ramblings. I've tried to give a general idea of what this year has been like but I honestly think the only thing you can really do is to come here and see Senegal for yourself. So if you're ever pondering over whether you'll make a trip to West Africa and need convincing, give me a call and I'll have you booking that plane ticket in no time.
So that's it from me. I'll see you all soon, or as we'd say in Joal...
BA CIKANAM and CIAAAAAAAO
Kirsty x
- comments
Sarah Jamieson Absolutely love reading what your getting up to, always something interesting :) very excited that I will get to see you soon xxxxx
Kat Bruce You're blogs are amazing! Can't wait to see you when you're back :) xxxx