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So today I am off to Salvador so after being woken up early by the cleaning lady I made some breakfast and started getting my things together. I was hoping Leo would get up earlier so we could hang-out a bit before I left but unfortunately he sleapt the whole morning and just woke as I was ready to go. We had a quick chat, I gave a little gift (nice photo of us with Leos family), Leo made some of his famous Acai and banana smoothie and then gave me a little gift of fruit and nuts for the plane trip. After walking me down to the bus stop and making sure I got the right bus (very caring person) we set our goodbyes and I boarded the bus; of which the bus driver shut the door just as I was about to get on. The driver had a real bad energy about him and after letting me on then preceded to short change me on the already incredibly expensive $7 bus ride - I wouldn't stand for it and demanded the rest of my change as he was pretending he didn't have. The bus trip out to the airport was actually quite interesting and I got to see the different parts of the city complete with all the different and colorful favelas. Arriving at the airport was a pleasant surprise with a very well laid out and navigable airport - due to (I am guessing) the upcoming World Cup and the need to have a new and updated airport. I checked my bag in and then headed through security check which took just minutes and I was into the waiting lounge complete with its free wifi. I had about 3 hours to wait and as I had Internet this went past very quickly. We were very late boarding the plane and then sat on the runway for 30 minutes before taking off. The flight to Salvador was two hours and we were given a very unhealthy snack of deep fried bread with melted cheese and salami - I could only eat the salami of which was dropping in oil but managed to also get a cup of diet Gurana soft drink to wash it down with. They also had those little tablet screens and I got to watch an episode of Big Bang Theory which was a nice treat. We arrived to Salvador at about 5:30pm just as the sun was going down and were treated to a most spectacular sunset and approaching the landing all the city lights began to turn on making for a sensory delight. Disembarking the plane I felt the sudden difference in heat with Salvador being much much warmer then Rio (didn't help plane aircon was freezing and I had my jeans, jumper and beanie on). Amazingly as soon as I arrived at baggage claim my bag came past (the quickest baggage claim in all my travels) and I was able to be out of the airport within 5 minutes of getting of the plane. After getting a map and directions to the bus stop I boarded a bus headed to the city where both the driver and ticket seller looked at my map and agreed to show me where I should get off (in Portuguese). The bus journey was long but interesting going through all the different areas of the city - first thing I noticed was lots of very flash resteraunts along the highway and then as we approached the city - favelas and ruined buildings. Already I could see the contrasts between rich and poor in the infrastructure - when it came to my stop the driver guided me where to go and I was off. Stepping of the bus I felt very nervous as I was the only white person around, it was dark and I have heard this is a very dangerous city. I kept my head down, phone away and worked our where I needed to go quickly - yes I am a little paranoid but I think it helps me stay safe. I found the right street and made my way to the apartment complex of my new host Eliane. Even walking up the street I was nervous with lots of groups of young guys hanging around in dark corners. The guys at the gate house security took me all the way into the apartment block and right to Eliane's door (as I couldn't understand their directions) which was incredibly kind of them. I met Eliane and her lovely friend and we conversed in a little Spanish but unfortunately neither Eliane or her friend spoke any English. It was ok though we managed to communicate a little and they both were laughing and smiling so what more could one ask for. Turns out they were off to another friends house for the night so they gave me the wifi code, some sleeping linen a bath towel and the keys to the apartment and they were off - I know right people are so kind and trusting with couchsurfing.
The apartment was small and someone had left food in the bin and there were ants and flys everywhere and the smell was unbearable so the first thing I did was clean it up and get rid of trash. The shower was rough to say the least and the bucket sitting next to it confirmed that the shower trickled and I would wash myself out of a bucket. The water is cold like most places I have stayed in Brazil and even though it is hot outside it still sends shivers down my spine when the first cold water hits my back. Eliane had kindly told me to use whatever food I wanted so I made some fried vegetables and chicken and then sat down to do some research on Salvador. I already have a strong feeling I am not going to like this place and the fact that I feel so uneasy here already is worrying as I have 7 whole days here.
OBSERVATIONS:
- Leo - very caring and big heart
- Expensive Express buses - $7
- Easily navigable airport - very new and updated
- Free wifi at airport
- Deep fried bread, cheese and salami bun on Avianca flight
- Superfast baggage claim
- very polite bus drivers
- 90% African decent
- Feel very unsafe here
- Lots of poverty
- Cold showers
- comments