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Wednesday was a big walking day. I drove from Padstow to Barnstaple and thought I'd have a quick visit to Port Isaac and to Tintagel on the way through. Ha, nothing quick about it!
Driving in to Port Isaac was like driving through a maze of country lanes, none of which seemed to be the right one, till finally I arrived at the Atlantic Ocean. I squirmed into a parking space and then the rain came down. Not to be deterred I donned my wet weather gear and set off down to the village - just as the rain stopped.
Port Isaac (or Port Wenn for all you Doc Martin fans) is a charming little fishing village with more tourists than locals. I wandered up past the Doc's surgery and had a look at Large's Restaurant on the side of the hill.
Saw some more choc labs and talked to their owners, telling them that I have one back home. Both of them asked me if my bloke was bonkers as well.
A nice coffee and off to Tintagel.
Tintagel needs a few hours to have a really thorough look about. It has castle ruins dated back to Norman times. There are tales that claim that King Arthur was conceived there; if Arthur ever actually existed it would have been pre Dark Ages, and archeological evidence of that age has not been found.
It is a fantastic location on the rugged Cornish coast with stunning views, crashing waves, cliffs and caves and so on, all the ingredients for a good story.
The locality has doubtful strategic importance and yet the Normans saw fit to build a castle, barracks and various outbuildings around the cliff tops. Walking around the site is quite tedious and strenuous, with a number of steep walkways. The soldiers would have got fit just wandering about.
I arrived in Barnstaple on Wednesday evening at the Cedar Inn, in time for the Wednesday meal specials, ie curry and a pint for GBP 7.45.
Thursday was spent wandering about Barnstaple taking in the sights and looking for Gaydon sites and landmarks.
The most important of these was of course the former 'Gaydons' a well known pub over the years. It was updated a few years ago and renamed Claytons Lounge Bar (downstairs) and the Glasshouse Restaurant (upstairs). It all sounds a bit pontsy I know but upon closer inspection it looked like quite a good venue, with good beers and a good menu.
I yarned with the bar manager for a while and he told me of past rivalries with the pub around the corner. Alas that competition (the Three Tons) is no more, having been bought out recently by Pizza Express.
A number of people I spoke to remember 'Gaydons' as the place to drink when they were young.
I also located a few buildings in the High Street and on the Strand where some Gaydon businesses operated many moons ago. I also found Lower Gaydon Street, Gaydon Street Motors, and a Newport Road property where Henry and Grace Gaydon probably lived in the 1860's. There's another Gaydon on the local war memorial from WW1, but I don't know where he fits in.
The ladies at both the Museum and Heritage Centre were all very helpful.
Today, Friday, I visited the picturesque villages of Landkey and Swimbridge, specifically the Churches of England at each place. The Gaydons are well represented in both church graveyards. In particular Henry and Grace Gaydon are buried at St James at Swimbridge; it was several of their children who emigrated to Australia during the century before last.
Gaydon tower clocks adorn both these churches and a number of others in North Devon.
I had lunch at the Jack Russell Pub. It is named after the Reverand John Russell who presided over the churches at Swimbridge and Landkey. He was a keen hunter and is the same Jack Russell who invented the Jack Russell terrier.
I spoke to the owner and his Mum. They have only been at the pub for 5 years but he gave me a list of past owners and licencees of the pub, researched back to 1850 by a local historian. And yes you guessed it, the pub was owned by a Gaydon during the 1870's and 1880's. It was the New Inn till 1962.
Ah yes another big day winds down. Tomorrow is a driving day. I'll be on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales by tomorrow night.
- comments
Sandy Hey Bru, I am really impressed with the Jack Russell Pub!!!! Cool! Mary & Emma want to go!
Big Al Is my photograph still on the 'Wanted' poster board outside the Barnstaple Police Station? You'll enjoy the beer more up North. make sure you get a few pints of Tetley's Bitter in for me!