Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
One thing i love most about Europe is the markets... And I've been a bit bummed that we have been shopping at a grocery store instead of the fresh markets. I've searched a few times but I'm finding here in Spain the local produce is more sold at the municipal mercado which are permanent structures with stalls. Haven't found the right one yet. :(
The weekly markets I've been to haven't been impressive.. Not like the ones I remember in France where you could buy everything from fresh cheese to Spices, bras to shoes. The markets here in Sevilla are smaller, more specific. Maybe outside the city is different. Today we look for the "hippy market" I've read about at plaza Del duque. Last week I took everyone in a big wild goose chase to find this. We walked a long time to nowhere. Strike one. This week we try again and find it but it's also unimpressive. We did find a few leather stalls with thousands of belts. I've been wanting black leather for jeans and I find one but too big. No problem. On the spot the leather vendor measures, cuts, resizes, and finishes for me. $10. Greg has to get one too. Why not? We wander and end up at the gourmet mercado by the Triana bridge. This place was modelled after the mercado de San Miguel in Madrid. Close but not quite.. just not the same vibe. But we eat. And drink. Small dirt area next door so kids run and play. Looks like it used to be an outdoor bar so there's garbage, a bit of broken glass, and some old posts and bars. But at least kids can run around. You make do with what you have.. Sevilla has lots of plazas and squares and gardens. And a few small urban playground thrown in... But not many big play areas with grass for kids.
At the tables we sit next to a lovely gal from Oregon. Larisa has traveled many places and has good stories. We trade recommendations and info... Get emails.
Sevillans said to mostly eat standing up... It's a bit of a joke. But I think true! This night We go to a little bar behind cathedral in the Barrio Santa Cruz area for good cheap eats... The whole place can't be bigger than my living room with a few tables and chairs. It's packed busy and spilling into the street and we luck out with a tiny table and a few seats we squish into. Kids stayed home with Greg so we're only 4 tonight. The bartenders keep tabs written in chalk in the bar! Somehow they know who ordered what. I try my best Spanish to order tapas and drinks. The one cook in the back (one very organized guy) is a dead ringer for Steve Van Zandt. Seriously I got a photo to prove it. People roll in, eat and drink, and roll out. Contrary to home, they meet and move on. Bar hopping to meet different people, enjoy different favourites. Love that
Friday we venture to the Real Alcazar (royal palace). Beautiful. From the outside it looks like an old wall you've walked by hundreds of times. Inside it's beautiful gardens that go on forever, and a luxurious palace where many meetings of the mind have taken place. Story says that Magellan planned his exploration here: Finally we catch Jesse's attention! Peacocks in the garden opened up on full display make for some awesome photo opps.
After We head for a rooftop bar that was noted somewhere for being the first in Sevilla. View of cathedral and prices of drinks & food are equally ridiculous.
Finally found the Triana market! Will come back cuz we don't want to lug bags around all afternoon. Every day we swear we're gonna get going earlier and every day we seem to herd cats by 11 earliest. Ugh. Today no different so by the time we get going everyone wants food and beer :). Find a great little side Cafe in Triana and Fred finds his new fave Spanish classic garbanzo and spinach stew. And we steal a few more cruzcampo glasses for souvenirs. I'm pretty sure they just budget for lost glasses in their prices cuz no one stops you from walking away with your drink in hand... Usually to the next meeting spot
Monday Spanish and going to meet mom right after at Triana market to get fresh stuff. Finally! Waiting and waiting. No sign. Oh man. Mom is lost in Sevilla. Finally a half hour late... Her and Fred took wrong bridge and wound up way far away. But they found their way back on track! Market is awesome. Learn about new food and people. A few new words. Locals are so fun when they see you trying to speak and learn.. They're always happy to help. Love the Spanish
Ive been wanting to go back to Metropol Parasol with parents and Greg this time. New perspective for me after seeing more of the city this time... The view from the top has more meaning.
Livvy has seen flamenco shoes for girls since day one. Today she gets a pair. 1.5" heels?
Jesse has been entranced with street performers, especially the 3 headed guy who makes it look like heads on a table, scaring people walking by. And latest is a waiter who looks like he's slipping and falling, and every time someone throws a coin in he changes poses. Pretty clever some of these guys. There's "Jesus Christ" (as Jesse says) who seriously could pass as his twin, eyes hair & all, who stands with a huge cross leaning on him for hours, another "red monster" guy who looks like he has wings and is sitting on a perch. They must make a few bucks each day and there are a lot of them.. Some more talented or clever than others. Today on our walk Jesse decides he's going to do one too... Tips his hat over on the sidewalk and starts doing some cross between a handstand and breakdancing against the wall. Pretty funny for a kid who will barely say hi to people.
Last week Jordy and Codi and I went to back street flamenco bar... So tonight I Take mom & fred thru the windy streets behind the cathedral to la Carbonería. This night there are several singer, one dancer, and another singer who starts so softly but then belts it out. Just like the first time, the performances start out in one room and move to the smaller chapel for the second show. Not sure why they do this but it makes the whole process kinda fun. I feel like I know what I'm doing this time.
Now it's my last Spanish class with Marta. She had a great energy and I loved being able to have chats with her about Sevilla. Each class I would come with another question we were curious about and she would do her best to answer. Marta didn't speak much English at all, which really made me wonder at first how she was going to teach me... But each time she found a way to communicate her lesson and keep me smiling. I really enjoyed this part of my Sevilla experience and the time that was all for me.
Mom was in search of an art store for Camryns birthday so I googled and mapped and off we went. The maps only work so well here... Many streets aren't signed well or at all, and they are so twisty turny it's hard to follow along. I have thanked the maps and gps on my iPhone many times! The first art store I marked was actually an old church in an alley somewhere... Strike two. So we go to the next and hit jackpot. Because space in an old city like this is a premium, store keepers often use every square inch. I've noticed hardware and other stores like this art store, where the front area for customers is small, with a service counter... You ask for what you need and they head back to the shelves stocked deep and high for your items. He brings us 6 different options to choose through. Impulse purchases don't work well this way but it's great service.
Our Sevilla experience is coming to an end tomorrow As we head to Portugal. I can honestly say I love this city and its energy. Every day I discovered something new, whether it was a new favourite I researched and mapped out, or a place we stumbled upon and found ourselves. This city is full of little secrets and a soul that is hard to capture in words. I'm already looking forward to coming back one day.
- comments