Weds April 6
I had been wanting to go to a local market in Spain. Buy fresh produce and see what's local. That's Europe to me. Doesn't seem to be as much of that here. Haven't found any open Air weekly markets like we had seen in France. Mercados here are municipal market buildings... We tried to visit but you have to go earlier in morning. Mercados are quieter and packing up by early afternoon.
Instead we walk across Triana Bridge, along the river and home across the other bridge. Triana is where I wanted to stay in Sevilla and feels good to be here. Found "churreria" by second bridge... Street stand. First slush for kids "grazinada"
Nighttime back In the apartment, kids in bed, and we hear amazing Spanish guitar and singing from outside. Open the doors to see a table of people in their 50's maybe, sitting at a bar table of La Morena, outside. One man with a guitar. Another singing beautifully with a deep Spanish voice. Cheers after each song. Sometimes another man sings. All amazing. Goosebumps.

On Thursday we head to the much anticipated Maria Luisa park. We Rented bike one of those 4 seater pedal bikes, kinda like a golf cart. So fun. I had wasted to ride bikes through Sevilla while we're here but realizing that likely isn't possible. No kids bikes and not really good city biking for them. Travel is So much about letting expectations go and seeing what happens. You can research and read and plan, but the days don't always unfold that way. And that's the beauty of it. We discover things all over the park, like the pigeons and doves at Plaza de America where the ladies sell bird food and the birds swarm you to get it. On your head, on your arms, on your shoulders. Squeals and laughter. Best €1 entertainment. We almost used up our ciclo rental time here. Passing people in the park on other Ciclos you could hear their laughter too... Like everyone turned into kids again.
We found a great playground in a big play area. Lots of kids and families. And on the fringe, a vendor cart selling treats. €1 cerveza, €2 grazinada. How is their slush twice as much as our beer? And is it possible to enjoy a beer while your kids play at a park. Feels so wrong and yet so perfect.
Olivia and Jesse met friends. Family from California... Jesse did not like David (he was a bit of a terror!) but Olivia liked Sara very much. Mom Ester originally from Madrid so they bring the family here each year to stay connected to their roots and family. Great chats in the park. This is how I love to learn more about the places and spaces we visit.
Walking home, we pass Universidad de Sevilla. Gorgeous. Used to be a Tobacco Factory and reminds me of Alyssa who went here for part of a year... Alyssa's amazing memories of this beautiful city and its neighbourhoods are part of what brought us here! I love planting the seed in Olivia that she could possibly go to school in a place like this. Eyes wide open.

On Friday Olivia and I planned a shopping day but I'm quickly realizing that a girls shopping day with Liv is really an Olivia shopping day! She allowed some browsing for Jesse clothes at least. This day I tackled making a Traditional Spanish tortilla. Boil potatoes and onions in oil, cool, mix with 6 eggs, put in frying pan and cook/mold. Good breakfast or brunch food. Kids weren't so hot in it. I thought it was pretty good!

Saturday and codi and Jordyn arrived. Early morning train from Madrid. Cool to see them in Europe. Jordyn had a tough first few days- jetlag? Flu? Nerves? Now she's here and able to relax. We walk to the Metropol Parasol... Locals call it Las Setos because it looks like mushrooms. 3€ adm gets you drink up top. Perfect. Surprise was underneath the building- Roman ruins from 2nd and 3rd centuries, discovered in the 70's when they were prepping this site for the modern building. They have preserved and you can walk right through them close up. Was a wow moment for me.
This night easy dinner next door.
Jordy still feeling sick so codi and I went for night stroll after dinner. Tiny bars spill out into the streets where people of all ages are drinking and socializing. Very social here.
We walk around the Plaza de Toros (bullfighting stadium) and looks like the crowds are just pouring out. It's apparently a star studded crowd since we see a few people asking for photos or autographs. Around the side gate hundreds of people waiting and watching. So we do too. The main matador apparently comes out to cheers and photo seekers. It's a total scene. He's treated like a celebrity, but no keeping the crowds back. He walks right through it to his waiting van where the other Matadors are also waiting. Crazy sight.
April9
Codi and Jordy arrive
Metropol parasol. Ruins.
Jordy sick
Codi & I walk around. Sat night busy. Bars spilling out. Bullfight getting out. Crazy.
I heard about this little bar that makes the "best churros" in Sevilla for many MANY years so off we go Monday to find it. Through the narrow cobblestone streets behind cathedral. Bar El Comercial. And it delivers. We watch the old guy make them right in front of us. Swirls of batter right into the fryer and he expertly uses a prong to flip and serve them. No sugar and cinnamon. Just a cup of thick chocolate for dipping. Heaven.
The walk back we notice this area is more local... So many formal dress stores, formal kids clothing stores, silk flower and accessory shops. We tried on flowers in our hair and bought some for Feria which opens this night.

11pm off go the girls: Andrea, Jordy , Codi. As we walk the 10 or so blocks to the grounds, each block more and more people join in... And before long the streets are wall to wall people. Most holding 2 litre bottles of 7-up and a bottle of liquor... We find out later its Manzanillo.... The Feria drink. Everyone has a glass of something and we're feeling pretty left out. At 12 the lights turn on, the crowds cheer, the flamenco music plays, and everyone files on to the grounds and into the the (mostly private) casetas. We hunt down one of the few public casetas and learn about rebujitos, the sevillana, and the "Picky Picky" song that will haunt us for weeks! What a night!
By Tuesday the streets are suddenly filled with ladies wearing feria dresses, men (of all ages) in suits, groups in carriages pulled by decorated horses. What a scene. Feria begins.

Eating out here means meat, potatoes, overcooked veg, and sauces... It's good but oh so heavy. So at home we load up on fruit and veg.
Who am I to complain?!

The Torre de Oro is our stop this day and we learn about the importance of Sevilla in the history of trade with the Indies, world exploration, and more. Sevilla used to be the main port for trade before ships got bigger and had to stop coming down the river.

We're loving the learning here. Every day you find something new that makes you want to go home and do more reading and discovering. Love that.