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Impressions of Tajikistan
Part One
I arrived in this country in the middle of the night, or at least it was just getting light. The airport is one runway, in the south of the city, and the whole process of passport control, baggage claim and visa control takes place in a not very large building - where citizens and others are divided. There were more others on this occasion. There seemed to be quite a lot of process and form filling, all of which took a while. It is the first airport I had ever been to where they needed to see your boarding pass before you could put your luggage through the final security tunnel. So visitors be warned! Always keep your boarding pass and the piece of documentation they give you at passport control or getting back out will also be difficult.
As soon as you are out of the airport terminal the normal chaos ensues, but minimised in this case by the intervention of the VSO member of staff, Shuhrat, who spoke very good English and had the whole thing organised.
As we drove into town we were introduced to the many public buildings that line the main streets, while the women are out with their brooms sweeping the pavements for the coming day; it is a very dusty city and the legacy of Russia persists, in many ways. During daylight Duchanbe is a city trying to establish an identity - people speak Russian and Tajik, there are many Russian buildings, but also many new ones under construction. The mix of cultures and origins is apparent in the people, with extremes of wealth, Lexus, Mercedes, BMW and children on donkeys.
There are many trolley buses, with men who stand on the back and swing out on a rope to allow one trolley to pass another, by disengaging the cable. Taxis are the predominant form of transport as so few people own a vehicle, some are hired on mileage, others are 'shared' and cost 2 simoni each person, up to four people and drop you off when you asked them to stop as they only go up and down the main street through the city, Rudaki. There are also shared mini buses, not yet attempted and only to be considered when geography and location have improved significantly.
In town there is a lot of road repair going on, mainly by Chinese immigrant labour, but some semblance of a road system that is understood. Traffic will stop if you are on a zebra crossing. However margins for error are about as slim as I have experienced and I would not attempt to drive. There are also an army of traffic police who stop anyone, but for unclear reasons, by waving their equivalent of a light sabre, black handle with orange baton end. The police and fire service are both just round corner at the end of the road; they have shiny smart vehicles and uniforms.
I am living in a street that is just off Rudaki and contains a number of schools, kindergartens, nurseries, the President's daughter's house and the President's house. So we have the privilege of having the guard house almost directly opposite our front door. Probably has some advantages in terms of security, but our front door is constantly locked, so should be safe. The road is also kept clean and the tree lined avenue leading up the president's house is cool during the day. We enter through a locked metal door, with a lock that is temperamental. Once inside this is a traditional Tajik house with a central courtyard, with a fountain in the middle, surrounded by banana plants and roses. We also have a Tapchand - the traditional garden furniture that is raised off the ground and used for sitting, eating, drinking and sleeping on when it gets very hot. There are a large resident tortoise and many nesting birds in the garden, so it feels very rural. There is also a gatehouse, a separate bedroom, with its own outside squat toilet (more on loos later), but you do need to cross the courtyard to get to the main house which has four bedsits, one kitchen, one bathroom and another downstairs toilet. There were five of us here for the first week but three moved on to their placements elsewhere and one other moved back in, so now we are three: Mary, Lynn and me.
Lynne and I are in the upstairs rooms with a bedroom and living room each, plus the balcony. Mary is downstairs and also has the only television for watching DVD's; but I haven't watched anything since I arrived.
The bathroom also contains our twin tub washing machine, a relic of domesticity and efficiency, the spin drier is to die for. The bath tap is indescribably solid and Oscar would love it - if it worked well. We do have water all the time, one of the other benefits of living so close to the president, but this week the water for the showers is not hot and will need to be repaired. The wiring in the house is risky at best, overload is common and like many other aspects of life here, living in an H&S hell becomes acceptable, if risky. But we have a western sit down toilet, two showers, running water and electricity - what more do you need? Not so sure about the winter when it is so cold that everyone is seriously frozen in this draughty house.
After only one week I have already succumbed to the dreaded stomach cramps, but not too severely and it seems to have passed. We try very hard to do the right things to avoid this possibility, but even cleaning teeth is a ritual to be adhered to. The quality of the water is seriously appalling and the worst in all the Stans. We have to run it from the tap into a large water bottle, leave it for the sediment, and I mean sediment, to sink, pour it into the water filters and use only this water for cooking and anything that goes in your mouth. We have separate kettles for boiling washing up water, separate from water for tea and coffee. Eventually white washing goes a dull brown from the colour of the water. So we use lots of bottled water that is safe to drink. But somehow you very quickly adjust to the routines and it becomes part of daily life.
One advantage of the hot weather is that you drink lots, but hardly need to wee. There are some sit on loos, more squat and flush loos and out of the town I anticipate the less desirable pits, but have yet to encounter one. I am very fortunate as my office has not only sit down loos, but also air conditioning.
My biggest barrier is my lack of language, although four Tajik lessons thus far with Risolat, have started to give me a few words and phrases that I can hear and repeat, without making a complete gaf. It does seem less inaccessible than I first anticipated, so give me a few months and I may be able to hold a basic conversation. My interpreter, a Tajik student, will be available to me full time from next Monday (June 1st), when he returns from his language course in Spain, so that should be a great help. Interpreters need to be able to speak Russian as well as Tajik, as so many people are first language Russian and there is a lot of overlap. VSO will only support learning and using Tajik and I will have lots of opportunity to learn in the placement as all the social workers in the villages speak it.
I have been to visit the three project bases out of Duchanbe along the most appalling roads, either in a state of current repair or complete disrepair. Our driver does his best not to lose the car in huge potholes and negotiates with great practice and skill. Where the repairs are happening there is little traffic control - a bit like going round the M25 under construction, with no guidance. Today we literally had to drive on the hardcore for some time and avoid cars coming directly at you also trying to avoid the gravel. It is at these times that you know you are in a third world country, with few resources.
Just a final word about my placement, my reason for being here. I will be based with the association of social workers in Duchanbe, but spending lots of time in the three pilot projects: Duchanbe, Dusti and Numonroziq. I am working in the office with the Project manager, Mehdonam and the administrator, Mahbuba - who are both Tajik but speak Russian and very little English. People here only use their first name, unless it is very formal, so I don't know their other names at all. The social work staff are all women, all have their heads covered in one way or another, but all speak Tajik. Most Tajik men are stick thin, but some of the women with Russian heritage are bigger. Some of the Tajik women are very beautiful and have names with meanings like princess, or beauty, or turquoise. They have all been really welcoming and Mehdonam and Mahbuba are teaching me manners - how to hold your tea cup, how to say hello without shaking hands, how to pray at the end of a meal so as not to offend.
I have just about enough things to wear but did buy my first Tajik dress on Saturday when we went to the dept store with Risolat. Not what I would wear at home, but it will expand my limited wardrobe where the requirements are to cover shoulders, knees, backside if wearing trousers - just don't have enough things with short sleeves.
So enough for now. I am still trying to sort out my Sim card and dongle, not a problem but I need a translator, a passport and an organisation to register my internet connection with, as I cannot do it myself. First job for the interpreter. Then I will be able to download the voip mail that allows you to phone a landline for free. It will make such a difference, as I do miss everyone and have felt a bit sad sometimes. So please keep emailing so that I can have lots of news at the internet cafe. Lots of love.
- comments
s Ah! great to hear from you and a fascinating insight into what you're getting up to! I'm sure future info will be equally enthralling! look forward to the next episode! Love and best wishes from Sue and familyx
Chris Pinchen Hi Yvonne great to hear you are ok and getting used to a new way of life. Glad to hear you have managed some retail therapy! Sounds very interesting and look forward to hearing more news soon. Take care Lots of love Chris & Robertxx
Alison Really fascinating, keep them coming. I love the photo of the courtyard - tortoise photo next please! lot and lots of love, Cumbria Alison x
Linda xxx Hi Yve hope you've received my email. Enjoyed reading all about your first few days after arrival. Will let Mum know you're OK. Hope all is going well with your job now that you have your interpretor. Take care. Miss you lots.
linda Will try and print off all that you wrote and will show it tomorrow night with the photo if I can print it off.Will write and let you know all about Gary Annette Susan and Michael i'm sure they send you their love as do I and so glad you are enjoying life lots of love ~Lindaxxxx
wendy Love the description of the roads and driving. It's just like that in Kenya - drivers have some kind of subliminal communication about avoiding potholes whilst also avoiding each other. Not an etiquette I would want to try to master! Wxx