Vang Vieng was previously the party capital of Laos. Bars lining the Mekong would cater to fun filled tourists tubing down the river, getting wasted and generally being western in all their weird ways - until too many people died drowning in the river and the government clamped down. Most of the bars were closed down not too long before we arrive. We were told by some not to even bother stopping in Vang Vieng but I'm glad we did. With most of the bars closed down the town was really chilled, almost empty with a few travelling stragglers still passing through. You can see remnants of the town's previous glory in the copious amounts of same-style tourist tack shops lining every street corner, selling "in the tubing" shorts, shirts and waterproof bags. I guess the change is not very good for business and the locals, but I really like the atmosphere and the surrounding area is absolutely stunning. After our first few nights in Central Backpackers, we move to bungalows on the other side of the river across a rickety bamboo bridge and set in front of a gorgeous mountain backdrop. Niki and I think about visiting the cave but choose to climb up to the viewpoint which turns out to be the hardest of climbs, clambering up super jaggedy (knife edge) rocks in flip-flops and flimsy dresses is not ideal but worth it for the view at the top. Somehow we make it up and back again without injury, despite a few close calls. We sample all of the delights Vang Vieng has to offer, including shakes made happy, tree top jumping at the Blue Lagoon, cruising the countryside on motorbikes and pool tournaments at the Irish bar.