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Our Cycle Camino begins……. Paris to Mont St Michel 459km’s
We left Helene’s home her wonderful boat that is moored practically under the Eiffel Tower and headed out of Paris via cycle lanes – luckily with Helene taking the lead, what was originally going to be stressful turned into a lovely wander out of this massive city. Helene was going to her childhood suburb to cast her vote and it was on the green-way out of Paris – Perfect!!! When you need help it appears I think – mmm I must have faith and believe in this on our cycle journey as what we are about to embark on is a big challenge. We bid our farewells to Helene and carried on our way along the green-way to our overnight stop some 54km’s away. It was in the small village of Saint Reimy a room through Air BNB, our hosts were wonderful and invited us for an Aperitif, we had many laughs and crashed out around 9pm.
The next day we headed off on the green-way and came across a huge Briconte (French flea market), it ran along about 2km, they sell anything and everything and there were heaps of buyers around too. 51km’s later, a very cold ride we arrived in a very small village off the trail to another bed for the night in a young couple’s home. The tent has been sidelined to rooms through Air BNB due to it being so cold and that I have a nasty cold. Very early night – need to try and rest to get rid of this cold!!
Up, up and away early as we know we have a big ride today, it’s a crisp morning without rain so that’s a good start, we cruise along and head back to the Veloscenic trail, we visited many villages, ate yummy food from boulangeries & picnicked, we arrived at Tabitha’s wonderful retreat around 5pm absolutely shattered after 78km’s & a fall off the bike for me. I seemed to bounce and no damage done, full of a cold and feeling nausea's. Tabitha whipped up a wonderful home cooked meal of broccoli soup and chicken curry that we scoffed in a flash – yep hungry cyclists, we had a great bed and I could hardly remember my head touching the pillow.
We had a good breakfast and headed off again, the days seem to be taking on a routine, up breakfast, coffee stop and cough, cough, cough along the trail we go. We headed to Jardin La Bourdonniere where the host of this Air BNB was a wonderful 73 year old lady who looked after me from the moment I arrived. She filled me up with hot lemon & honey tea, paracetamol & vitamin C and I snuggled into bed straight after a nice hot shower and didn’t get out until the next morning. Rod loved her garden and couldn’t believe the work and energy she had for it, it was a full time job. She lived in this old old house that was build in 1666 – incredible.
Rod obviously worked his charm as we got a hot breakfast the next morning of Ham & Eggs French style with coffee, toast and all the bits and pieces. As we were leaving she asked us did we like oysters and I said ooh lala then she produced this plant and told us to try it – amazing it tasted EXACTLY like oysters!!!!
So off we went again, Rod taking the lead and me tucking in behind him to have an easier time, after 44km’s we arrived in Alencon, about the ½ mark, it was freezing, drizzly and I couldn’t go any further, I chucked in the towel, so we shoved the bikes in a taxi and headed to the spa town of Bagnorles d’Lorne to rest up. This was wonderful, we slept had steam rooms, spa pool, a great small town to chill out and relax – and a treat to be in a hotel!!! This proved to be a fantastic decision as the next day was thunderstorms with heavy rain & I smiled to myself as I was tucked up in bed watching the rain out the window.
After a decent rest we have to move on, its grey & cold again, not what the weather forecast said it would be, the trail this morning took us down an old forestry road that felt cold and rain was threatening with big drops, we just pushed on and on until we got to Bion a tiny village where our bed was for the night at Chantal’s a wonderful Air BNB host. These guys were both artists - WOW very cool house with lots of quirky art. Rod spotted a chicken going into the oven and was hoping he would get invited for dinner – no such luck, I did explain to him that dinner invitation was not an option but he held out really believing he would be in luck ha ha.
I just crashed out once again – this is becoming monotonous – cycle, shower, bed – trying to get rid of this bug!!!! A very social French breakfast with Chantal, her husband and her brother so we didn’t get away until 10am, although still feeling crappy I felt excited with the thought of making it to Mont St Michel today, green-ways took us nearly all the way, the 1st sight was magnific, I was very proud of my achievement over the last week considering how sick i was. The fitness is there, 68km’s found us tucked up in a room – safe, great hot shower & clean, what more does one really need when on the road – mmmm I think I have too much stuff in my panniers. We have carried a tent, sleeping bags, auto inflate mattress all this way and it’s been so cold, but then you can’t control the weather.
So here we are Mont St Michell 8 days after leaving Paris with a rest day, we made it along the Velo scenic, mainly off road on green-ways with some quiet back roads, a great ride, a great experience and achievable for anyone who has a passion for cycling. The French love people travelling on bikes, out Air BNB hosts were warm & friendly and patient with the limited french we spoke - now to explore this UNESCO site....
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Simonne Liley Stunning!!