Escaping a 700 Kwacha bill, we left for Nkhotakota after just three hours sleep.

Walking to the bus station with our bags on was the first time I had done so since we've left and it was an absolute mission! Shoulders were caning!

Forgot to say, I got in trouble for having my shirt off again as the day before a policeman stopped me in my tracks. I don't want to sweat and smell though do I?! So when I get the chance off the bad boy comes!

A painful three-hour bus journey took us to Nkhotakota and our first glimpse of Lake Malawi. On the way we made so many stops in tiny outback villages where locals swarm the bus to sell you their fruit, veg, meat and fish if they have it!

I couldn't resist a 20kw (9p) corn on the cob. However, in this area they liked it overcooked and I nearly cracked my jaw (no joke) chewing the niblets. They also make some nice dough-baked balls at the same price too. Bit bland but worth it for 9p!

On arrival in Nkhotakota, some locals directed us to our host's car as he was in the village, so we hitched a free lift to our lodge (4km away). The South African guy was very helpful and showed us round the lodge, where between the two of us we shared a four-man dorm. The bar/restaurant overlooks the Lake and is a lovely little romantic setting, except I had Jack and the place was pretty much empty!

Again, forgot to mention on the way in, Jack traded a glass bottle for a mango on the way in. Maybe it's common all over Africa but certainly in Malawi and Ethiopia they recycle all their soft drink and beer bottles. We often got drinks cheaper for exchanging the glass (although some places you have no choice but to pay their price which could range from 50-150 kw!)

It was shortly approaching dusk so me and Ballard went for a quick swim in the lake, which we had been told Crocs live in shortly down the coast (but there were loads of locals inbetween!). The water wasn't so nice looking but it was warm. We were hounded by the local lads again who this time were banging on about football players to me, just calling names but I had no idea what they wanted me to say. Eto'o - yes I know him. Messi - yes I think I know him....

Jack was then playing with them on some giant floating log whilst I was too busy checking that our stuff on the beach wasn't getting half-inched.Then I felt stuff under the water and it turned out because I have such big legs, the kids were swimming through them!

We continued up the lake, seeing people cleaning their clothes, fishing (kids as well), and even one guy starkers, covered in soap about to swill off. The lake is so big, it's like a sea (look it up on a map).

There were tonnes of little wooden fishing canoes and boats, a bar playing music (such as the Backstreet Boys and Akon - the latter being huge here), and even people bringing their livestock to the beach whilst they went about their business. Ducks, goats, chickens, donkeys etc.

Jack tried to fish like this kid but failed miserably - mind you, these boys are experts. The smaller lads prepped a hole in the sand so they could chuck the dozens that they had caught in there. Sadly, they let them slowly die - although one kid did smash the fish against his bike to put it out of its misery....lol

A delicious Caribbean chicken dinner sufficed my appetite, even though I ate some fruit and veg like lychees which I would never have thought about touching in the past.

I had a monster night's sleep but poor old Jacko was craving a fan and up for hours.