Wednesday 4 June, Day 10.

We were a bit late disembarking for Tana and the sea made using the tender boats a bit tricky. We got to the beach in the 3rd boat and were greeted by colouful singers. The beach was packed with locals and it seems that a lot of the kids missed school because they wanted to se the big ship and visitors. The Chief of Chiefs made a speech of welcome and we were treated to 3 groups of dancers from different villages.

The Paul Gauguin was the first cruise ship to visit for at least 10 years, and according to some locals, within living memory. Plus it was said that its arrival was part of a prophecy, according to the Cargo Cultists. Never been part of a prophecy before. Suffice to say that our arrival was BIG news and people from the villages had been preparing the beach arena for the past 3 months. Rows of bamboo benches had been constructed around the dancing area. Not too comfortable for us folks however, and after 2 hours Kathy's legs had gone to sleep so that when she tried to get up she fell over and sprained an ankle. It immediately swelled up, but she was determined not to miss the volcano visit, so in to the tray of a 4WD Ute for a bumpy drive inland.

On the way we visited a village. We entered along the "safe" path so that no one could harm us, which just happened to pass a huge banyan tree used in the past to string up murderers and the like. Lots of shouting and challenges from the guys in the village but eventually we were made welcome. Lucky for us , as the warriors who had been hiding up the trees behind us then emerged to dance around the area (as opposed to knocking our lights out!). Eventually we were all invited to join in the dance.

Once everyone was happy with the status of the visitors we were allowed to continue on to the volcano. We drove almost all the way around the cone over weathed vesicular lava (full of holes and very light in weight as a result, almost pumice). The last full eruption was before living memory so the cone has been gradually turning to sand that now forms dunes around the base. Great fun to drive around on! We drove to about 100m below the summit. Kathy had to admit defeat due to her ankle but Tony, Jo & Alan made it to the rim. We couldn't quite see the lava pool, but we could hear it and see the steam. Every now and again it would sent up chunks of liquid magma spewing 50m in to the air, but thankfully all safely within the cone.
Then a quick ride on the back of the 4WDs back to the beach along the bumpy and dusty "roads". Sadly only one tender working so we had to wait a bit to get back to the ship. After showers to wash off the dust we headed to the infirmary to see the doctor and get Kathy's ankle checked out and strapped up. A late dinner to finish an eventful day.

Tana is such a long way off the beaten track and it was humbling to see how the local population reacted to over 200 western tourists visiting their special little island. Lots of fun and a genuine welcome to the visitors from all over the world. What was also good for us was that so many spoke English so that there could be meaningful communication and dialog.

Thursday 5 June, Day 11.

Day at sea. The ship is in no hurry so we are only making 6 knots. Highlights today were a photographic workshop to help people get better shots, and a tour of the galley. First thing they do as you get into the kitchen is thrust a glass of champagne at you. "Oh no, not more alcohol" we all cry. It's a tough job... Canapes and cocktails before dinner and a nice meal in the French restaurant to complete the day.