Huaraz - Santa Cruz Trek

10.07.-15.07.11

I left LIMA on Saturday, 09.07.11 and took the "Crus del Sur" night bus directly to HUARAZ in the north of Peru. HUARAZ is located at the foothills of the CORDILLERAS BLANCAS and with its 22 summits over 6000m it is the highest mountain range in the world outside of the Himalayas.

When I arrived at 6.30am I took a taxi straight to my "Hostal Caroline" where I had a reservation. Unfortunately and a bit disappointed I couldn't get into my room as some travellers only had just left it and it had to be cleaned. Well so I went straight into town in order to find out about the many possible treks in the Cordillera Blancas. But on the way I stopped at the café California where I had a nice coffee to keep awake.

There I met a couple from Germany and after chatting for a while they told me that they were looking for a 4 day hike as well. So we went to two different Tour operators to compare the prices. But just before I was about sign up the guy in the office recommended to acclimatise for one day at least before starting the "Santa Cruz Trek" which goes up to 4.750m altitude. Well…and thank God I listened to him as in the afternoon I got a headache and went straight to bed to catch up on some sleep.

The next day, Monday 11.07., I took it easy and asked some other travellers about recommendable Tour Companies for the four day "Santa Cruz Hike". Matt, a guy from Melbourne told me that he and his friends have just signed up for the trek with the Company "Galaxia Expeditiones". As I had another recommendation for them I decided to walk into town and register for the next day.

The most popular backpacking circuit, the SANTA CRUZ TREK, takes four days and rises up to the PUNTA UNION PASS (4.750M), which apparently has the best Anden views in Peru. The trail, which passes by icy waterfalls and lakes, mossy meadows and verdant valleys, is a 45 km hike and apparently not difficult (rated moderate) as long as you have acclimatized to the altitude. The altitude along the trail ranges from 2,900m to 4,750m!!

1st day:

On Tuesday morning, 12.07.11, the Company "Galaxia Expeditiones" picked us up at 6.30am and drove to a café where me could have some breakfast and met the rest of the group. So I introduced myself to Lena and Thomas from Germany, Eddi from Korea, Matt, Scott and Natalie from Australia and Charles and Celine from Francia.

At about 8 o'clock we left Huaraz together with our Tour guide EDITH. We drove to the town of Yungay (2800m) where we had a quick toilet stop and continued on a very windy, steep and rocky road up to the pass of 4.800m. Just before the pass we stopped in order to enjoy the breath-taking view and to take some photos.

After 3 hours driving through the stunning mountains we arrived in VAQUERIA. As it was already 1pm Edith decided to have a quick lunch before we start hiking. Half an hour later we finally started walking through a lovely valley and along a few houses and farms where children approached us and ask for "caramelos"!

At about 5pm we arrived at our campsite for the first night. As nothing was set up yet we helped Jesus, the cook and Sergillo, the donkey man to set up our tents for the night. While Jesus, Edith and Sergillo were preparing the dinner we snuggled up in the "dinner tent" with a hot "mate de coca" and got to know each other a bit more.

2nd day : Paseo Punta Unión (4760m) - Paría (3850m) - 8h - 20km

The next day, Wednesday, 13.07.11 Jesus and Edith woke up us with a "mate de coca" at 6am. While we were getting ready Jesus prepared a yummy breakfast with scrambled eggs. At about 7.30am we left our first camp site and started ascending towards "Laguna ? " where we had a little picnic and refreshed ourselves in the Laguna.

From there I found the climb up to the "Pass Punta Union" very, very difficult and the air got thinner and thinner and I had to stop every 30 Meters to catch on my breath. But after 5 hours we finally reached the top…yiphee…I am so reliefed that I made it. Wow…. and from there we had a great view on both valleys, Santa Cruz y Huaripampa….and we were quite lucky with the weather !

We were sitting at the pass for one hour, eating our lunch packages, taking photos and just enjoying the beautiful view from there. At around 2pm were started descending…..and after walking through a nice valley we arrived at 3pm at our campsite. We were so glad to see that all the tents were set up and Jesus surprised us with some nice fried cheese crackers and a hot cup of tea.

After a quick wash in the freezing cold river we all had a nap for 2 hours before we mingled up again for dinner. This night we had "Lomo Saltado" but strangely nobody could finish their plate as we were all to exhaust from the tough climb. So everyone went to "bed" quite early.

On Thursday, 14.07.11 we did a site trek to the "Laguna Alpamayo". This day was supposed to be easy with only an incline of 400 metres from where we started. The hike up to the Laguna Alpamayo was very nice and when we arrived at the "glacier lake" we were all thrilled. A turquoise-blue lake right in front of the Glaciar Alpamayo….que bonito!!! Check out the photos on my album "Huaraz - Santa Cruz Trek"!

Our camp for that night was right next to the "Rio Santa Cruz" which we had to share with a few cows and donkeys. Unfortunately a bit too cold to swim in there but refreshing for our swollen feet!!!! In total we walked about 8 hours on this day.

Laguna Grande (3700m) - Cashapampa (2900m)

On Friday, 15.07.11 we had a sleep-in until 7am. After a really yummy breakfast with Granola, fruit and yoghurt we left the camp at 8am and walked towards the "Laguna Grande" and then further on to the "Laguna Chica". At the second "Laguna" we stopped for a long picnic and refreshed ourselves in the cold water. From there we continued walking downhill until we reached the village "Cashapampa" where the mini-van of "Galaxia Expeditions" was waiting for us.

But before we said "Good Bye" to Sergillo, the donkey-man, Jesus (the cook) surprised us with another nice and light lunch. The weather on our last day was brilliant and quite hot. So after enjoying our lunch in the sun we exchanged email addresses and then drove back to Huaraz.

Back in HUARAZ at around 2pm everybody walked back to their hostel in order to have a shower and relax. At 6pm we all caught up again for a "Pisco Sour" with Edith, our Tour Guide and Jesus, the cook in a bar in town. Later on I went for dinner with Eddi, Charles and Celine as we were all leaving Huaraz the same night. And again I said "Good Bye" to some more nice Travellers who I might meet again in Paris or in Seoul???!!!

At 9.30pm I was sitting on the night bus to TROJILLO.