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Pondicherry; a former French coastal colony and a world away from Varanasi.
Can you even try and imagine what a mix of France and India would look like?
Pondi is split from north to south by a partially covered canal, with the more French side being on the east part of town and the Indian side on the west side. We found a lovely guesthouse on the French side just two blocks away from the promenade and the sea. It only had 5 rooms and was decorated in a traditional Indian style with lots of statues and lanterns hanging from the ceilings and big antique style furniture - by far the best place we have stayed in so far.
Simon wasn't keen to go to Pondicherry as it involved an extra flight, the overnight stay in Delhi and a long taxi ride from the airport, and when we reached the town it looked like he and I were going to be disappointed as South India looks exactly the same as North India - except with a touch more greenery and boy was it hot! But as soon as we hit the French side and realised just how pretty it was we were delighted.
Paved sidewalks, cemented roads, pretty flowers, shady trees, beautiful buildings and no rubbish on the roads…
Pondicherry is most famous for yoga and the Sri Aurobindu Ashram which is why I wanted to visit. My paternal Grandmother spent her whole life dedicated to the teachings of Sri Aurobindu and his predecessor; The Mother (who was French). My Grandmother spent a lot of time reading the associated books and also trying to get her grand children to try and understand the teachings, but I'm afraid it all went over our heads. My grandmother passed away on a particularly religious day connected with the ashram and as she had no previous illness it was at that point that the family realised how connected she was to this way of life. Now I am the proud owner of a complete library containing about 50 books on the subject of yoga and spirituality and the teachings of the Mother but I have to admit we have struggled to get to grips with them….yet!
There was a huge mix of nationalities in town due to the ashram; many different types of Indians and more French people than I thought would be there.
I found a great peace at the ashram, it gave me time to think of family members that are no longer with us but were connected to this wonderful place.
One day we made a visit to a nearby town called Auroville, which was founded by the Mother in 1968 as an experiment in international living where people could live in peace and progressive harmony, above all creeds, politics and nationalities. Currently about 2000 people have settled in Auroville, the majority being Indian, followed by French, Dutch, German, American, and English. You have to be a follower of Sri Aurobindu and The Mother to settle here, and it seems to be a difficult life to lead as the town has not progressed to the level it should have by now and has some way to go before it will become truly self sufficient and fulfil it's potential. At the centre of Auroville is a giant gold golf ball like structure called the Matrimandir. It contains a silent inner chamber and houses the largest solid crystal in the world. Rays from the sun are beamed into the crystal through a tracking mirror in the roof and produces amazing energy for the Aurovillians who go there to meditate. Simon struggled to understand why they would build such a structure, having never meditated or managed to stay silent for than two seconds, but I can see exactly - I tried to meditate at the ashram and although everyone is silent inside there are still always people who choose to chatter loudly outside and cars constantly beeping their horns.
The temperature in Pondi was 33 degrees and I found it quite unbearable. It is fair to say that the weather made me a little bit irritable especially as Simon pretended he knew where he was going and made me walk somewhere only to have to back track when we had taken a wrong turn! We should have just done what the locals do and take a nap on the sidewalk in the shade from 1.30-3pm.
Simon is extremely happy with the food as we are now on the coast and he can eat fresh fish every day, and I'm trying everything but have to be careful, as it's now dodgy tummy time for me!!! Being told not to eat spicy food in India is like saying to an American that they are not allowed to eat fast food. All in all I am not Simon's ideal dinner date due to this and I'm sure that he would much rather have Will troughing away and drinking the massive bottles of beer with him!
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