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Stamina!
Well... Day 4! From Dent through numerous farms to Whinfell. Another glorious day, the Sun definitely had it's hat on.
Started off well, met 2 chaps at breakfast, Chris and Steve, some pals from near Shipley. They hadn't booked anywhere to stay so were on the look out on route. We kept a good pace during the morning, had a natter about this and that. Stopped for lunch where the river had fashioned a beach under a tree. Bliss. By this time the sun was high in the sky and the breeze had dropped. It was incredibly hot! I even zipped off my trouser legs ;) because I have super cool walking trousers (I know your all jealous).
After lunch the heat started to slow us down. We entered a cow field, no big deal, I've been through plenty in the last few days. These cows were different. They started mooing, no surprise, but within about 60 seconds of the first one mooing, they had all started. It was an incredible din! We were headed for a gate across in the corner of the field, and as we made our way, the whole heard of cows started to follow us. I assumed cows were very docile creatures, so wasn't really too bothered, until I turned around and Steve was brandishing a very large branch. He was clearly unnerved by our new followers. Did he know something I didn't? By the time we got to the gate half the heard were already there, we had to squeeze through them all, still mooing like mad. As soon as we made it through the gate and closed it again they were silent. Not a peep! Strange animals!
The day started to drag after that excitement. I thought we'd been making good time but it seemed to take ages to get through this particular page of the map. We were passing through farm after farm, and I got the impression that these farmers weren't keen on having a national footpath through their land. The signage was poor, if it existed at all. The stiles were damaged and wobbly. The paths and approaches were choked with mud. At one point I thought the mud might come over the top of my boot! Battling with mud and direction was truly exhausting.
The last couple of miles took hours. It was 5:30 and the sun was really dropping in the sky. We diverted on the road to Greyrigg where I left Chris and Steve to find somewhere to stay. I took the route back on the Dales Way which lead me down a path that I don't think had been walked all summer. My legs are still throbbing from the nettles and briars. This felt like a final straw! I was fed up, tired, hot, emotionally drained and out of water. I wanted to go back to Greyrigg and ring a cab. There was still about 3 miles left to do, through more farm land. With a big lump in my throat I selected some happy tunes on my iPod and pressed on.
I finally arrived at Crook Howe in Whinfell at 6:30. It was stunning, set by it's own little lake. I wish I'd been here earlier to appreciate it.
Only 14 miles left tomorrow. Can't wait to finish!!! Pie and a pint at the Royal Oak! Not long.
Much love
<3
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