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Hugh, Anne and Hector's Sailing Adventures
El CAPITANO Reporting, 16th June
Well, it's some time since el Capitano has reported but that has been mainly due to PCC (partial computer collapse).One day we had a reasonable laptop and the now we have the equivalent of a Sinclair XZ or whatever it was.
Anyway on with the log.
After we left Andraitx we visited some old haunts and went cruising with Stuart and Eliza, visited the Caves of Drach at Porto Cristo where there was an amazing string recital from a floating trio on a vast underground lake with dramatic lighting effects. We continued up the coast via Cala Ratjada and then on with a good sail to Pollensa where we met up with Tom and Michele. Next day we went for an expedition to Cala Murta which was perfect with clear water for swimming and good shelter for lunch.Eliza and Stuart had a shore day and they watched us return and anchor. Just then we saw an amazing effect. The clouds were pouring over the mountain range to the north of Pollensa and rushing down the slopes. Just as I yelled "more chain, more chain" the wind hit us at over 50 knots and all hell broke loose.Now the problem was to Get Tom and michele ashore. We waited for a lull and set off in the dinghy. Luckily for Tom and I, Michele was placed where she took all the sprayand shielded us both. She loved it (or was that hysterical laughter?). Stuart and Eliza had less drama in getting aboard since the wind had abated.
They left on the 19th and on the 21st we set off for Majorca and had a good crossing with quite a bit of sailing.The winds wound up to 30 knots but in the shelter of Mahon, it was all very calm. On the 23rd of May we set off for Sardinia but after an hour we turned back because the sea was so rough.WE decided to give it a couple of days and it was no bad thing as we ended up at a wine tasting and corkscrew exhibition in St Lluis.
May 25th saw us depart again for Sardinia but this time in more moderate conditions with smoother seas and North force 5. We covered the 194miles to Carloforte in 30hours reaching speeds of 8.5 knots during the night. Onwards then to Cagliari where we berthed in Marina del Sole which is a bit chaotic but under the friendly supervision of Maximilliano. Brian Cavenett arrived next dayand all hell broke loose.
North West winds yowled though the marina and the bay is so huge that 1metre waves were rolling in. The red boat next to us was a nightmare! The clue was when we watched him berth the previous day;he had no idea! We then noticed that his boat was covered in scrapes and cracks an some strange gaps which were testimony to his previous chaotic berting procedures. Anyway he sort of fiddled around with his lines and went off into the sunset quietly singing an old Sardinian folk song.The problem in the wind was that none of his lines was tight and his boat was leaping around like a wild bronco.
This madness went on for four days and the situation was improved when the marina put extra lines right across the marina and gave me a massive fender to put between me and the red boat. Things improved for me but the giant fender systematically destroyed the red boat's toe rail, stanchions and anything else it came into contact with. At the weekend "Red Boat Owner"returned and quietly hummed an old Sardinian lament.
We eventually escaped Cagliari on 4th June, Brian having spent six stormbound days discovering the best restaurants, gelateria etc in town.(The restaurants were GOOD ).
Onwards to Porto Corallo. Strange deserted place with a 350berth marina only one third full-----spooky. Mind you there is nothing there but a camp site.Onwards to Arbatax. Spookily quiet; where are all the Italians?
Onwards to Caletta . Here if you moor on one side of the jetty it costs money and the other side is free!
Onwards to Isola Tavolara which is a huge chunk of rock rising to 500m with sheer cliffs. Spectacular spot with a good anchorage at the southern end.
Onwards to Porto Cervo to join the jetsetters. Hey where are they? Only four boats in the anchorage- very quiet. We heard that Bill Gates had told them to stuff it when they asked for 30,000 euros to berth his yacht. We of course anchored for free. We wandered ashore amid the unique architecture of the place and Brian in a fit of generosity bought a round of bottled beers for 9 euros each. Yup we are in Porto Cervo for sure!!!
We are now through to the 10th of June and heading down to Olbia to link up with Brian's homebound flight. Nice anchorages, good meals on the way and said farewell to Brian on the 12th June.
Since then we spent three more days in Olbia doing odd jobs and shopping and coping with Italian bureaucracy
(in Italian it is "burocrazia" which may explain a lot.) Here is how it goes: an official in immaculate whites gives you a form for permission to moor at a charge of 14.62 euros.You fill in the form and take it to his office with money but oh no the fee has to be paid in revenue stamps from the post office which is only a mile away! Go to the post office, wait for an hour and get your stamps by which time the harbour office is closed.Show up next day with the form and the stamps which disappear pronto. Where is the permission to moor permit I ask? No problemo is the reply.The latest we have heard is that the Sardinians are going to levy a 500 euro charge on all visiting yachts to pay for refuse disposal and water consumption. Luckily I think it only applies to yachts larger than Saltwater Gypsy but "burocrazia" strikes again.
This is written at a calm anchorage at Cannigione where we came about twelve years ago on a windsurfing holiday. Its a great place with lovely scenery like Scotland with sunshine. Kevin and Kirstie are joining us on the 28th June so until then we will chill out in the Maddalena islands between Corsica and Sardinia.
For you cat lovers out there , Hector is fine and in these deserted marinas he has been ashore doing cat stuff.
This is a bit of a long one but this bloody computer........*@%"""!!*:?/.,':{[*****""!!!!!.
Regards to all and lets hear whats going on in the real world.
Hugh and Anne &Hector
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