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Here we are back in civilisation!!!! WE MADE IT TO ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP AND BACK!!!!!!!!
All in all I have to say it was a pretty good effort for a couple of old fossils. Now, how to describe the experience, so much seen and so much to take in. Our trek ended up being 9 days and Pete worked out that all in all we did 5,350ms of ascent and 5,490ms of descent. And the ascent in this country means that was 5 kilometres of almost straight up. Every day as we came down I actually marvelled at what we did achieve - sorry Neville and Louise it was probably the hardest trek we have done but as one other trekker said to us "it was worth every gasping step". And our fitness regime at home was up to the task.
After day one Pete decided on a porter and so we hired a local man in Tolka, his English was very limited but we managed to communicate and other guides and porters were always happy to translate. Initially he was very shy, and he remained very humble to the end, but was definately more comfortable with us. By the last day he was coming in our room and using the toilet (we only had that for two days). The teahouses or hostels we stayed in were amazing - they were always so friendly and helpful. There is a set menu thro' the Annapurna conservation area and while it got a little tedious the variety was amazing considering where we were, and that they all cooked everything. We got a basic room with a share toilet and most times a share solar shower. Meals were in a share dining room. The toilets were my pet hate, the most basic squatting kind which is a bit hard after a day of trekking, and the flushing system - well that is another whole story!!
Technology in Nepal is astounding, in the mountains are lots of little hydro schemes and so there is power as well as the solar stuff even up at 4,130ms. Julia Gillard needs to visit as well; all the way up they were using mobiles and they all have them. You see the poorest person walking along, the next minute they ring, and out comes the phone.
So the mountains were magestic, huge and awesome. The women in particular were often stunning, and the old people were wizened with a punishing lifestyle written all over their face, But they are a happy and friendly people, always ready to laugh and share a joke. The features of those in the mountains quite different, not so Indian influenced I think. Most of them speak some English and lots are fluent in that as well as other languages; especially the guides.
The phrase "four seasons in one day" seems to have been coined for Nepal -on one day we were in sun, then walked in rain for an hour, then snow for an hour and a half, then it cleared but was cloudy. That night we had the most beautiful powder snow falling for the whole evening and when we woke up the huts were nearly buried in snow - beautiful! The next day rained and we stopped for lunch and the sun came out. Thought I would leave the coat on but get my sunhat out; the next minute it was full of hail!!!! However mostly we had great weather and saw all that we wanted to as far as the spectacular scenery went.
As you will see Petes photograpy is getting better and better and for the horticulturalists out there we have seen some amazing flowers and insects.
The porter/guide system is extremely well organised and works really well (have contacts for those who will follow us here) but I never stopped feeling guilty about the loads some of them carry, especially as they use their heads as the counterweight. Even ours I worried if it was too much, if he was warm enough and if he was getting sick.The limits are supposed to be set but they often carry way more: and then there are the locals - check out the guys carrying the wood. It is to build a new hostel at the Basecamp, the fact that there is a helipad near the top was of no account in the costing. I have to say they don't look like they are enjoying their lot in life.
Saw a guy at about 3000msitting in a wheel chair, you just shake your head at the logistics of getting it up there in the first place. Then once it is there where on earth could he go.
Sooo we are relaxing in Pokhara today, being somewhat lazy as it is quite warm and we deserve it, Had a yummy meal last night (a variation on the last nine days) with the most beautiful fresh fish from the lake and a fruit salad with home made Gelati and chocolate sauce - it's OK, my pants are falling off at the moment. Healthwise we both got tummy upsets and I got some respiratory thnk that I ended up putting myself on antibiotics for. But now we are old hands and trying all sorts.
So everyone we are healthy and loving every minute, it really was a trek of a lifetime (and we have another to go). Neville and Louise keep planning but just remember for every step down there are two hundred up!!
Love to everyone
Robyn and Pete
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Toby Happy Easter Parentals!! Going from the ratio of accent to dencent your walk was technically downhill so dont know what all the fuss is about =) Have fun xox