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I got up this morning and headed down to the beach at 7am to try some surfing. I found out that it's soooo much harder than it looks. I paddled around for about an hour and was having trouble even catching a wave, forget about standing. I realized that maybe a lesson would help!
I decided to quit and was paddling in to shore and the white foaming from a wave got in my face, so I closed my eyes to clear the water out, rubbing them in frustration for a few seconds. Oddly, I felt that the foaming water didn't seem to be going away beneath me like it usually did after only a moment. I opened my eyes and realized that the foaming was still there because I was ON THE WAVE!! I quickly tried to stand, but before I could, the wave was too close to shore. Anyhow, just a little bit of motivation to try again!
Moved to a new place up the beach a bit where it's less hectic. My rooms have been about $6 thus far. I eat huge breakfasts with the locals on the beach for $1-$1.50 and eat super dinners... fresh grilled snapper or tuna, grilled veggies, mashed potatos and a vanilla milkshake for about $7
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