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Another morning dawns in fog. Again we hear how this is unusual. No birding today; the morning is cultural, an afternoon of travel. Our first visit is to Agra Fort (1565), a 2.5 square mile complex built under Akbar the Great. A fortification as well as a palace for subsequent Mughal emperors and their harems and court entourages. The original structure was red sandstone, but subsequent buildings used marble with increasingly colorful inlay as technology advanced and trade increased along the Silk Road. Sadly at the end of Shah Jahan's life he was imprisoned (1658-1666) in the Fort by his power-hungry son. He lived eight years mourning the loss of his wife buried in the Taj Mahal, viewing the Taj further down the Yamuna River. Unfortunately the fog prevented us from the same view. Today visitors tour the palace area in one third of the fort. The rest is used by the Indian Army.
Mid-morning we visit the Taj Mahal. To accommodate the 7 million annual visitors, changes have been made since our 2007 visit. An elaborate crowd management/parking/shopping/"toilet complex" rings the old Taj entrance. Electric buses shuttle people to the entrance supposedly to reduce pollution. When we arrive, the Taj is barely visible in the fog. Fingers crossed that our companions will be able to view such a stunning building. Fewer visitors though because of the weather.
The Taj is such a fascinating and unique place. Some facts:
- Built by Shah Jahan for his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal after she died aged 38 in childbirth for their 14th child
- 22 years in construction, 1632-53
- White/gray/yellow marble glistens white in sunlight because of high content of silica
- Decorated with inlaid precious stones: black onyx, red carnelian, green jade, plus jasper, agate, turquoise, lapis, and more
- The mausoleum is surrounded by four minarets flanked by two identical buildings: one functioning mosque and one replica built just for symmetry
- The Taj forms a Golden Ratio, dimensions used in architecture that make it visually harmonious
- Preservation measures include prohibition of any object that might be used to mark or pry out inlay, and shoe coverings to protect the marble floors
Sun at last made its appearance before we left, allowing the stone and decorative details to glisten.
A visit to a traditional workshop showcased the craftsmanship of the stone inlay process (pietra dura), passed down through family generations. Miniscule bits of stone are ground by hand; so tedious that time at the wheel must be limited to prevent nerve damage; the process erases fingerprints.
After a final yummy lunch at the hotel, our 4.5 hour drive takes us back to Delhi, two hours sitting in bumper-to-bumper traffic, continuous horn-honking.
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