No rain today, but the clouds and fog didn't lift until well after lunch. We headed first north by bus in hopes of finding some target birds in Kumher. The Indian Courser was found without too much trouble in a large unplanted field of straw/earth clods. Missed last year, we saw maybe eight, small grey balls with orange breasts and striking mask-like face pattern: a strong black eyestripe, white eyebrow, chestnut crown. Everywhere we go, we attract attention: som...

Early morning departure to catch the 7:00 train back north to Bharatpur. Same drill: red-shirted porters take charge of our bags. Walking through the train station, every wall is covered with tiger paintings. People sleep on the floor under heavy blankets. Once on the platform, far fewer passengers await the train, but here it will stop three minutes so we have to be ready to board and find our seats while the porters pile our luggage into the doorway. Success ag...