I don't sleep fantastically due to the cockerel with razor blades in its throat and the dogs barking just outside my windows, but get up for breakfast nevertheless. It's the most substantial yet and consists of a huge slab of polenta interwoven with layers of cheese. I am the only one who finishes this delicious melty house brick.

After we take a ride to the snail field to begin a clean-up operation of the scrub which involves pulling weeds and raking the dead material that is choking the field; sweaty stuff! We see some Roman Gypsies picking up litter and Laszlo explains that they are working to get their benefits. During the work we see a giant bird which turns out to be a lesser spotted eagle. Even better, it is then joined over the mountains by a goshawk so that I see two birds I've never seen before in one day. Laszlo feeds us a local delicacy of cheesy, salty scones covered in various seeds and after work we head to a run-down bar with terrible toilets for a coffee.

After lunch at Select we sit in our garden and read whilst listening to music on my I-pod and the speaker I have borrowed from Laszlo. Laszlo then brings us dinner and we sit on our veranda with pate, cheese, aubergine cream and of course rolling hillocks of bread. We also have the huge radishes that we had seen people selling on the roadside on the way to Odorheiu as well as spring onions eaten in the traditional sideways, flute-playing manner.

After this we're back to the bar we went in on the first night, G-Point, for an awesome Serbian folk band, some beers and lots of messing about. Simon even gets a massage from Laszlo's friend Janus who has previously lived in America. Finally, we head home and Kate finishes her cream sandwich biscuits on the way which turns out to be a bit of an error.