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Sunday September 5th
We woke up at 6:30 after a wonderful nights sleep, yes the guest house was very basic but the beds were clean and comfortable and the mosquito net had done it's job. We dressed back into our clothes, the forth day running with the t-shirts we had bought the previous day being the only reprise. A quick breakfast and we climbed aboard our van for a long trek to the Masai Mara.
We left the lush wooded lake and headed back towards Nairobi and turned off heading south west. We passed lake Elementaia, another salt water under the shadow of 'The Giant', a group of low mountains which resemble a giant head and torso lying down. We travelled a bit further and decided to take a detour to visit lake Naivasha, a fresh water lake famed for it's role in the film 'Out of Africa'. We took a boat tour out to see the thousand resident hippos and to spot the 450 different species of bird. The hippos were incredible, basking in the morning sun, gathered in their school from young to old. We didn't venture too close, these humongous herbivores are one of the most dangerous in Africa. We spotted many of the birds the lake had to offer including the Fish Eagle, a gigantic bird that Jimmy, our guide, coaxed from it's nest by throwing a fresh fish into the water. Within seconds the bird had taken to the air and plucked the fish from the lake before our eyes. We then moored up on the peninsular of the lake for a walk amongst the Zebra, Wildebeest and Impala. Now you might think this would be quite dangerous and indeed so did we but Jimmy explained that none of these animals were native to the lake. They were introduced, along with the Lion, for the film. They were all self contained on the island so made filming easy, once they had finished the Lions were relocated but the other animals left. This now enables them to live a predator free life and enables the likes of us to walk amongst them without fear. It was a wonderful experience to be so close to some of the most iconic of African animals.
After the hour or so detour we continued on the road. The landscape changed quickly and soon turned to the more recognisable yellow plains of Africa. Here the small town became more infrequent and the number of cattle herders increased. Before we knew it we started to see the bright colours of the Masai people, so tall, thin and elegant. Here the road started to deteriorate, Rob expertly negotiated the pot holed track, I know what would have taken me a day he managed within a couple of hours. The most astonishing thing is throughout most of the teeth jerking ride TJ managed to snooze away as if she was tucked up in bed, her ability to sleep knows no bounds! We finally made it to the Masai Mara, Camp Spurwing and there waiting for us was our bags, such a delightful sight. Finally a change of clothes after 4 days!
We were both expecting a self erect camp site with a no hot water and a pit for doing our business. How wrong we were, we were shown to our fixed canvas tent with beds and a porch. Towards the back of the campsite was amazingly clean toilets and hot showers, we couldn't believe it!
We had 20 minutes to settled in before we were back in the van for our second game drive of the safari and our first in the Mara, meaning hills. As soon as we entered the park we were greeted by a gangly Giraffe, we were transfixed as it stretched to choose the juiciest leaves. Looking at such a remarkable animal really does remind you of how wonderful nature is. In the distance we could see more moving throughout the trees. We started to get a picture of the sheer scale of the migration as we progressed further into the national park. Wildebeest in there thousands were marching in lines towards an unseen target, Zebra herds dotted in-between the great mass of animals making the long journey north, it was a sight to behold. A constant reminder however was the ever increasing carcasses that we were spotting on route. Each one, it seemed, belonged to the Wildebeest. They are the easiest to catch, as Rob explained, due to their vast numbers, they aren't that fast and most definitely are one of the stupidest!
As we ventured on it was becoming later in the afternoon. Rob stopped to point out all the different antelope, Grant and Thompson Gazelles, Eland, Waterbuck and our favourite the Impalas. We came across a Warthog, or 'Pumba' with it's family, Rob giving us the Swahili name for everything. We were getting to the end of the day and the sun was beginning to sit low in the sky. Rob drove us through a thicket and there before us was a whole pride of lions, a couple of other safari vans were stopped watching them and as we joined they were making their way toward them. A quick count saw us face to face with two mothers and four adolescent lions. They approached without concern for us and as they left the grass for the clearing they stopped, as if posing for our pictures. It was an awesome sight. As they made their way passed us, not more than four metres away the cubs started to play fight, their mother nuzzling them with affection. It was truly remarkable to see these feared animals in their family environment. TJ and I simply watched in silence as they made their way towards the thickets, the mothers giving gentle grunts as instructions to the cubs. Rob let us know that they would be preparing for a hunt, and with that the gruesome reminder of another Wildebeest carcass.
In the distance we could see a herd of elephants heading towards the horizon but Rob turned the van around and headed in the opposite direction. We weren't disappointed as we headed towards a solitary tree, at least six other vans surrounded it, everyone silent. The illusive Leopard was hiding within the branches waiting for night to fall so it could hunt. No matter how hard we tried or in what position we could only glimpse it's shadow, disappointing but there was always the next day.
As we returned to our camp night was falling, we were both a little blown away by what we had seen. Realisation soon took hold as Francis let us know dinner was a 7:30 and to remember our torches, no electricity in the bush. We got to our tent and erected our mosquito net, which took a lot longer than it should, debugged the tent (brave TJ dealing with a rather large spider!). As we left the tent with torches in hand it was pitch black and around us the bush had come to life with the sound of insects. We had another fantastic meal in the light of a kerosine lamp, TJ fidgeting with the flutter of every moth. Sitting by the Masai guard's fire we reminisced on a fantastic day and wondered what we would encounter the following day. Both shattered we fell asleep almost instantly in our sleeping bags, oblivious to the animals of the night.
Monday September 6th
We awoke at 5:30 to complete darkness and silence. Our first game drive was to start at 6:15 so we could see the sun rise and all the mornings activity that preceded it. As we drove into the park frost glistened on the dirt tracks, a sign of how cold it got at night. Wildebeest and Zebra were beginning there long daily trek by grazing silently. Not long searching and we came across a huge male lion bathing himself in the weak morning sun. A couple of other safari vans and many pictures later Max's, as TJ had named him, ears pricked and he sprang to his feet, muscles tensed. From behind us two Water Buffalo and their calf meandered through the thicket. A few gasps from the viewers and the Buffalo paused eyes widening. As the Lion made a step towards them they panicked and started for the clearing of grassland. Max slowly gathered speed and made after the buffalo who were gone in a shot, calf in between them, a trail of dust in their wake. The Lion seem unconcerned as he saw his breakfast run off chased for a second then stopped and collapsed in the middle of the dirt track to sleep dome more. Rob informed us that the lionesses would have killed food for him last night so he was not interested in chasing his next meal. What left with us though was the sheer fear in the eyes of the Buffalo and how fast they made off with their calf. Rob also told us that the lion would not have tried to kill one of the adult buffalo and would have been targeting the calf. A good start to the day.
As we carried on we saw so many more animals, at one point we were amongst what must have been at least ten thousand Wildebeest. All gathered in one place grazing, streaming in from different directions, Zebra herds dotted between them. As the morning game drive ended we headed for a hill on the horizon, as we came to the crest we could see a huge herd of elephants approaching through the long grass. Rob expertly guided the van predicting where they would cross, we waited engines running as the herd of around fifteen elephants got closer. We stared in wonder as they silently approached eventually crossing not a few metres from our van. All the adults were female led by the eldest towards a waterhole to drink, they passed our van stopping quickly to inspect us, Rob keeping in gear just in case we had to move. This was the best experience yet, these huge animals allowing us to observe them, reassured their calves with their trunks. What struck us was the silence in which they moved, the only sound was the swishing of their colossal legs through the grass. As we watched them stride down the hill towards their destination we both thanked Rob for giving us such an amazing experience, something we will never forget. We slowly made our way back to camp for an midday relax before another afternoon game drive.
Some lunch and a few games of scramble on the iPhone (4-2 to Mark) and we were back on a game drive on the hunt for an big cat that we were both dying to see, the Cheetah. Unfortunately luck was not with us. We did get to see two male Lions from a distance, Rob said they were brothers as yet to get their own pride so hunting and surviving together. More Antelope and Wildebeest. A particularly feisty herd if Zebra, one Zebra TJ commented on how beautiful his tail was and named him 'Pretty Plait'. He proceeded to annoy all the other Zebra, neighing and nipping at the hinds of others while they tried to kick him away (wonder why that one was her favourite, remind you of anyone? :-).
On the way back we also saw the same Giraffe we saw the previous day, this time with the father, quite a bit larger than the mother. Rob, telling us about the Giraffe, commented on how the males once they have fought each other for a female show their dominance by humping the defeated male! How we fell about laughing with that one! TJ's favourite fact learnt and Following her new found naming of animals Gino, Giselle and Gin was born! Another fantastic day, topped off with a wonderful dinner. We retired early exhausted after another long day. This time our sleep was not as uneventful, to begin with it was really hot and sticky that night, there were no Mosquitos in the camp but both of us had been bitten by something at dinner so were constantly scratching. We could hear the haunting cackle of the hyenas in the distance and as we were drifting off loud thuds and scuffling right by our tent. Imagination gets the better of you at this point and we are both not ashamed to say we were a little petrified as to what was around us. Eventually I fell asleep but TJ, woken by the sound of pecking at our mesh windows, had a frightful night; not helped by me being unconscious as usual!
Tuesday September 7th
The novelty of roughing it in the bush was starting to wear off. We woke at 7am after not much sleep, the facilities were fine but having to constantly check what creatures were around before you could wash, shower or go to the toilet was getting to us. The funny thing was that one of us had to stand guard when we went as closing the doors was not a nice option. We saw huge wasps, moths, dragonflies, termites, ants, lizards, a resident spider by the sink and some very odd insects that looked like something out of Starship Troopers. We were both looking forward to a nice clean bed and hot, insect free shower once we got back to Nairobi. We were still looking forward to a whole days game drive out to the Mara river to try and witness the migration across.
After another hearty breakfast (we've never eaten so well), we climbed aboard our van for our last safari with Rob. As the van bounced over the impossible rocky path to the park entry Rob explained that you can wait for hours and not see the Wildebeest cross. They look like they are going to go then turn around and go back, generally once one goes they all pile in after it. Once Rob witnessed thousands crossing, the crocodiles killing many as they struggled with the current. A Hippo, watching the crocodiles picking off the vulnerable Wildebeest, stepped across the great line of charging animals to halt the bloodbath. He said that it was a once in a life time experience and he will never forget it, we hoped for a similar spectacle.
We were greeted as usual by the familiar Giraffes that Tejal had named the day before, Giselle and her calf Gin were feeding on the treetops. We passed all the common animals that we were now used to seeing and as we took a path that we hadn't taken before we saw two or three stationary van, a tail-tale sign that there was something worth watching. As the van approached three or four Lions could be seen lying in the shadow of a tree, getting nearer however revealed that there were many more low in the surrounding grasslands. I snapped away with the camera as TJ counted, eleven in all with two adult lionesses and nine cubs, ranging in ages. The Lions were moving towards the thicket in search of cover from the strengthening morning sun. When asked why there were so few adults Rob explained that the other two or three would be off hunting. The lionesses cycle when they will come on heat so they are only giving birth one at a time within the pride, this enables all the lionesses to help look after the cubs and also means there are not too many mouths to feed. We drove round the thickets hoping they would venture to the more shady undergrowth behind us and indeed they did, passing to the front and back of our van a couple of metres away. They settled down in the shade of a large expanse of low trees, we left them as the cubs began to fight and squabble.
We carried on the long journey to the Mara river passing miles of sparse grassland, here the Wildebeest and Zebra were still plentiful but were spread out rather than grouped. Again we crested a hill and saw a couple of vans off the track stationary in the middle of the grass plain. The vans are supposed to stay on the tracks and venturing off it faces a 10,000 shilling fine if caught, but we knew it had to be something good. Without a thought Rob had pulled out onto the grass and we beelined it towards the still vehicles, as we approached our excitement was justified as there next to a large tuft of grass was a beautiful Cheetah. Beautiful is not a good enough word to describe how magnificent this animal is, even as it fed on something that we couldn't quite make out. Much smaller than a lion it was crouched over its prey constantly raising it's head , it's distinctive black stripped eyes scanning the distance for what may be approaching. We were both captivated by how thin yet muscular the cat was, the fastest animal in Africa (reaching speeds of 120km/hr). I for one could have watched it all day but we had to leave quickly just incase we were caught, we both felt very privileged to have seen such an illusive animal.
Breathless we carried on stopping only once more to see a large group of Vultures feeding on a dead Wildebeest. The noise they made was eerie and barbaric as they hissed and squawked at each other, fighting for the best position to feed. As other birds circled above them waiting for an opportunity, we could hear the ripping and crunching of the carcass. Eventually after a long journey we reached the Mara river, as we stepped out we were asked whether we wanted to walk to see the Hippos, Crocodiles and the place where the crossing usually happened. Accepting we were greeted by our armed guard and ventured off to see more Hippo and our first sighting of some huge crocs. It was nice to stretch our legs even though we were walking in such a dangerous place. We weaved in and out of the river bank, stopping to take pictures, after a short time reaching the crossing. It was amazing to stand in the place where so much death occurs. As if as a reminder a swollen body of a Wildebeest lay floating belly up in the river, legs pointing stiffly towards the sky.
We returned to our van after a chance encounter with a Kenyan Gujarati who gave us a warm greeting and spoke with TJ. We carried on, reaching the Mara bridge, here seeing the large build up of drowned Wildebeest, Vultures feeding on their swollen bodies. As we crossed the bridge we entered 'no man's land', a place 21km from Tanzania and 2km from the Masai Mara that belongs to no one. Ron drove us up to a point where the river bent inwards, now the other side we could see a large group of Wildebeest on the cliff waiting amongst the trees and more streaming in from the North.
As we waited a small group of Wildebeest came in from the plains behind us, calling for the others to cross. At one point one Wildebeest from our side swam across the deadly waters to the other side, maybe to get it's calf or just because it was being stupid, as usual. We waited for about half an hour watching the Wildebeest venture down to the waters edge only to run back up the bank spooked by something unseen to us. Eventually one Wildebeest jumped into the water, 'Hope' TJ named it as it struggled with the strong current. The speed and power that the river grabbed hold of Hope was immense and it dragged him away from it's intended line down towards us. As it reached the middle you could see it's energy was sapping as it's head bobbed in and out of the water. Eventually nearly three quarters of the way across but much further downstream it lost it's battle disappearing under the water, only for it's hind to emerge as it drifted away from us. We were willing it to get across and it was such an emotional sight to see it lose it's battle. Not more than a couple of minutes later and as if spurred on by their compatriots demise or their own stupidity the whole group came charging down the bank jumping over each other to hit the water. They started on their intended line like a huge snake slithering towards the opposite bank, once they reached it scrambling over rock and vegetation to get back on their feet to safety. The river eventually regained control as it pulled the line downstream towards us, Wildebeest were lost to the current as the line broke and the crying animals swam desperately towards us. We were aghast willing every one to make it across and indeed most of them did, calves helped by strong and caring mothers, holding them upstream with their bodies. It was breathtaking as hundreds of wildebeest sprang up from the river, clambering up the side of the back right underneath our van to gallop past us in triumph. A couple of Wildebeest young and old struggled against the current, heads disappearing under the water, they reached the bank but could not find the energy to lift themselves out. As the current eventually grabbed them miraculously it pulled them down towards an easier exit, we rejoiced as each one managed to clamber out avoiding a watery grave. It had been the most emotional and spectacular event that we had seen and as Rob explained how lucky we were both of us had a feeling of new found appreciation for the amazingly brave Wildebeest. I couldn't help but wonder what it would have been like with crocs attacking at the same time and as we crossed the bridge to return to camp, we understood why there were so many dead Wildebeest on the rocks.
The way home was long and again we saw a plethora of animals, most notably the infamous Man Eating Lion. This species is bigger than it's cousin, the Black Maned Lion, and lacks the aforementioned mane replacing instead with a black mohawk. As it's name suggests they were known for hunting man while they tried to build the road and rail network in Kenya. We caught a glimpse of a male and female relaxing under a tree and intently you could appreciate the size difference, especially in the female. We returned to camp in the late afternoon sun saying our silent goodbyes to all the animals that made our visit so memorable. Back at camp restarted to pack our things in the failing light, readying ourselves for the long trip back to Nairobi. It had been an incredible last day in the Masai Mara and we shared our experiences with Francis over a game of cards before we retired for the night.
- comments
Ray Knight Impressive log guys. Loved the comment about a creature looking like someting out of starship troopers. Look forward to readin your next blog.
Dad Makes our cruise in the Med quite tame to say the least!!! Sounds like you are really enjoying the experience - don't get eaten!!! Mark, you write like a novelist - perhaps a new career? Love Mum and Dad xxxxxxx ps look after TJ at all times!
Lucy Truly amazing to read! So jealous of you guys yet id be far too scared!!! haha. Keep up the good blogs!!
Jane Loving the naming of the animals TJ - good work! You both sound like you are having the most amazing time - very jealous!