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Riley's back on form and ready to go, which is lucky as now it's the Diwali festival time, and we arrive at this amazing castle at Bijaipur. We are welcomed by drums and sitars, and given garlands of flowers as we enter and are blessed with the ubiquitous red bhindi on our foreheads. I can't believe we are staying in this palatial residence in the middle of the indian countryside, and that evening at dinner by the pool, it's fireworktastic, although their idea of safely lighting fireworks with a match or candle, whilst standing approximately 50cm away is slightly hair-raising.
The castle is owned by the Maharaja who owns the surrounding 260 villages. The man is a legend, he has this amazing curly tash, and continually wears a pristine safari hat. The next day he takes us on an exploration of one of his villages, and by association we are treated like royalty. It is unbelievable the way everyone bows and shows respect to him, and to us - we get a little taste of what it's like to be powerful or famous. As we pull up to the village, the villagers are beside themselves with excitement, that the king has come to visit, and has brought westerners too. We are mobbed, and the villagers trail behind like a royal entourage.
From the time we arrive one persistent man keeps coming up saying 'Chai, Chai' - he wants the maharaja to come to his house for chai. Eventually his badgering is rewarded, as we all pile over to his place. They bring out the beds so we are able to sit; and there we are, with the maharaja and the rest of the village, supping masala chai, and chomping on roasted monkey nuts, especially toasted for the occasion. The kids are loving it, and want a million and one photos. With permission, we take some photos of some old ladies outside the village temple, and they are astounded that you can see the image instantly as soon as you take a photo. so top tip, if you ever come to India, bring a polaroid, then you can give out the photos, and you will be treated like a God!!
I realise we got special treatment here, but I love these village walks, you feel **** you're seeing the true India, with genuine warmth and friendliness, as opposed to the cities where you suspect everyone's motives, and always wonder if someone is after money, or ripping you off because you're an easy target tourist - which by the way is a mantel I feel I am beginning to shed now, due to my extensive daily experiences, making me more India savvy.
Normally I hate haggling, because in the UK, the price is the price, and that's it, unless you're my mum who seems to be able to get deals wherever she goes. But here, you really start to get into it. I've got visions of coming back to the UK and trying to barter 2 for #15 in M&S, or 'go on just knock that 50p off' in Asda.
So the village walks are definitely a highlight, and I think something i would not really have gotten to do if I was just backpacking around in India on my own. Which by the way, after coming here I don't think I would do. There are too many cultural pitfalls, and etiquette. The machisimo attitude to women is also still in full force, as is the misconception of all western women being the 'w****s of babylon' as Freda might say.
The biggest thing for me which I hadn't realised, was the etiquette concerning shoulders - if they are bare, you may as well be naked. When I arrived I only had 2 t-shirts, and the rest were vest tops, so I had to quickly nip down the market, and equip myself with suitably decent attire - and that #7 I spent on 3 tops really ate into my budget too!
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