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An Encounter With Wildlife
We arrived by tourist bus into Tikal National Park on the 9th December. On this bus journey we stared out at a Guatemalan Military base and saw some curious activity. We think it was training but instead of using colleagues as enemy, to train against, they were using GOATS! A curious way for the military to act and can only lead to one conclusion - A war is imminant between Guatemala and the goats!
Once in Tikal we attempted to locate some cheap accommodation but there were only expensive hotels!! Well expensive for our standards and for Guatemala. A double room in Jaguar Inn was going to cost us about 25 pounds so we asked about a dormitory. This was agreed upon and we paid about 6 pounds each. this turned out to be a real bargain as we got a luxury room with four nice beds and and ensuite with hot water. The other 2 beds were never occupied so we got the same as a double room. Unfortunately the hot water and electricity were only on at certain times in the morning and evening. The lights went off at 9pm but that was good as it fits in with our usual early morning schedules. We left our stuff in the room and went to buy a ticket at about 4:30pm. A ticket bought after 3pm is stamped for the next day and can be used for the next day. So we decided to go in at night - again Lonely Planet recommended. We set off down a nice jungle path and found a very strange looking tree which we both decided to photograph. Lisa got so carried away and distracted she didn´t notice a slick slope of smooth clay about to collide with her lolloping feet. This led to a second San Ignacio style disaster as once again her rear end conected heavily with the ground! This time technology also got a shock as the camera landed heavily too. Much less sniggering occurred this second time round!!! We took photos of the large map on the board so that we would not get lost. We then headed down some paths to get to the Gran Plaza. We thought it might be the largest and most beautiful area. We encountered another person on our trail and tried to ignore them but she spoke to us in English so there was nothing to do but socialise. She was from Emgland and doing a tour similar to ourselves but at the age of 38 - poor old slag! Anyway she wanted to see the sunset but there were too many clouds. we climbed one of the temples in the Gran Plaza but it looked to small to be the Gran Plaza so we plodded onward in hope of finding a big WOW factor. Lisa now taking tentative slow steps with the fear of falling ever present in her mind! We continued further and it began to get dark. Lisa and Charlie now decided it was time to turn back so we bullied our new companion into leaving. We headed back on the uneven slippy paths without being able to see anything in front of us. Just like a comedy we got to a crossroads and had no idea where we were. There was no one around and it was pitch black. Using initiative we looked at the map on the camera and Charlie having a horror film moment took a picture of a sign to be able to read it in the flash, hoping that no horror figure would appear and never be seen again. With our nightsight now destroyed we continued down the right path and eventually lost our new companion at the gate. We went to a Comedor to find some cheap food and found a large insect appear on a seat beside us. It was bright green and similar to a grasshopper but with a long spike in its rear and a squashed looking head. Went to bed content in our new found luxury.
Got up early to see the park when animals are around and tried to check in for a second night. They wouldn´t let us so we tried the more luxurious hotel nextdoor - The Tikal Inn. The cheapest room here was 30 dollars and 50 dollars with food. We took the 50 and ate breakfast and dinner at the hotel. It also had a swimming pool which made us happy. We then moved all our bags across and then finally went into the park, a little later than intended.
Tikal is in such a beautiful seeting with wide paths around the jungle. The buildings are certainly not as impressive as Palenque. We wandered around and went up steps to the top of one when a tour group appeared and we got bored and irritated just listening to him for 5 minutes. We reflected on our excellent decision not to waste money on a jabbering kulak. walked to the top of a few others and saw how amazing the view could have been if it was not raining and misty. This is why all the pictures look so awful. As usual we decided mayan structures are a bit rubbish but here we found some crazy little animals. They were like a wierd love child between a ring-tailed lemur and a raccoon. They were so sweet. We stood in the Gran Plaza on our own, except for a security kulak, and they sniffed around us looking for food. The troop (if that is what it was called) must have been about 50 strong, with some young ones too. They had all disappeared when we decided that they were the only interesting thing there. As they had quit we did too, at only 12:30pm.
Had a spot of lunch in the same comedor and returned to the hotel. We decided to go for a swim and spent the whole afternoon frolicking in the pool and having celebrity challenges (eg. swimming from one side to the other holding our breaths). The hotel kulaks thought us to be mad as it was raining for the entire time. We couldn´t have a hot shower as the water wasn´t on yet so we rested in bed. Lisa suddenly went crazy, energy appeared out of nowhere and she threw her entire bag on the floor whilst it was open! The contents flew everywhere. She couldn´t stop moving. Crazy crazy girl. Finally the water came on and we showered and dressed as well as we could, at least in clean clothes! Then went to the hotel restaurant for dinner. And to bed after reading some of the Happy Hooker.
In the morning we tried to find and early bus to Flores but there was only one at 12:30. We started on a nature trail but the path was narrow, there were mosquitoes everywhere and charlie walked into a spiders web. We immediately exited the jungle and vowed never to return unless it was under control. We returned to the safety of the hotel swimming pool, but had to rescue about 5 floundering moths. Then had to checkout after a quick shower. Sat around the car park and read LP but Lisa got bitten by a giant ant that was about an inch long! This was the most hideous stinging pain and she allowed it to live until it began to walk the same way again and then Charlie fought the beast until he was victorious!! We got the full tourist minibus back to Flores.
Final thoughts: Tikal might have been nicer if the weather had been nicer and the evil bugs a bit fewer. We enjoyed the luxury hotels and swimming in a pool without chlorine! Still more enamoured with Palenque - just wish we hadn´t seen it first.
Mark out of 10: 6
Next Time....... Flores 2
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