Another early start for our moto tour of the countryside. We booked the drivers that took us to our hotel on arriving in Battambang as their English was really good and they seemed really friendly. It was $9 each for the whole day and as we first set off I was sooo scared! The roads are so bumply and have huge pot holes that the drivers either dodge or ride through! We stopped for petrol and my driver nearly drove off without me thinking I had got back on!!!

As we got on to the rougher roads we had to stop to buy surgical face masks taht all the locals use as the dust spraying off the road is horrendous and bright red! Not a good day to wear a white vest as I soon found out and not a good day to forget my sunglassess as soon enough we were practically riding blindfolded as we had to simply close our eyes to prevent all the clay dust spraying in our eyes. It was great fun though and I trusted Moonie, my driver, instinctively. I was really enjoying it, and began to love the bumps and the winding roads! AS we got onto the smaller roads again we were driving through local villages where the children ran out to shout and wave and blow kisses as us and you could see real local life again. Moonie kept pointing things out to me, all the locals fruits and I couldn't stop smiling - I must have looked well special! We both couldn't believe that we were lucky enough to be riding through the Cambodian countryside and that the experience was all ours. It is a beautiful country, very colourful and full of life. Riding through the rural villages though made us realise just how devastating the landmines must be as their whole life is centered around being able to roam freely for food and harvest the land, children run around by themselves, exploring and grwoing up so quickly so the effect of landmines blocking everything must have been awful; and yet they are the nicest people we have met so far.

OUr first stop was Phnom Sampeau. Moonie acted as our guide and led us up the mounatin side, a very steep climb, where at the top he started talking to us in hushed whispers about the Khmer Rouge and how it had effected his people and the state of politics now and the corruption in the governmetn still present. Whenever locals came near he stopped talking, then would get more and more passionate as we were alone again. He is in his 40s and yet has only ever been to 2 places in his whole life because the Khmer Rouge stopped everything. HE was telling us his dreams of going to Siem Reap and seeing Ankgor and it really put everything into perspective. He was speaking of how his people have fought for the right to vote and it be a just system, the right to free health care without corruption and the ability to read and be educated. We take so much for granted. I haven't voted yet and have the ability to learn and keep up to date on world politcs and don't. It was a real eye opener sat there talking to him and he taught us a lot more than the history of Cambodia that we will always be grateful for. He could not understand what Pol Pot was trying to achieve and why no=one had come to help sooner; yet he wasn't angry or bitter, just eager for change and excited at a democratic future.

He then lead us to the 'killing caves' where the Khmer Rouge marched people to the top of the mountain, then macheted them at the top of an opening where they then plunged into a deep cave, some already dead, some left to die in the cave as more people piled on top of them. The bones have since been gathered up and put in a glass cage withing the cave. It was awful.. that's all I can say, I had to walk out.

He took us further up the mountain to a place where Buddhas now stood to stop future suffereing and even further up to a small temple and a view where you could see formiles and miles.

Back down the mountain side and back on the motos to Wat Banan. Ont he way, one tiny little girl came running up to my bike waving and blowing kisses so I stuck my hand out to wave and she gave me a high five, giggled and ran off! Again, I couldn't stop smiling!

Wat Banon was a steep 359 step climb to the top, which felt like a lot more after our thighs had been clinging on to the back of a moto for the whole day! Nearly fell on a monkey that was asleep at the bottom of the temple ont he way down - it scared me more than him!

Back on the bikes again to the Bamboo train, unique to Battambang where you build a little platform, put it on the railway line and chug away! Our drivers took us to a little family shack whilt we waiting for a Bamboo train to pass. We bought cold water and cakes for $1 and sat chatting to this family. They were so lovely, espcially the dad. We fofered them all cakes and sat taking in the experiences of the day. Saw Bamboo train, a tiny square with about 30 locals crammed on! We had the choice to ride one back to town but we were enjoying going through all the little villages by moto so decided to ride back with the drivers.

When we got back we realised that we were orange with the dust from the road - my hair was solid!!! Shower and back to Smokin' Pot then to the free internet place that came witht he hotel. We were gutted becuase it was a really fast connection and we managed to get quite a few photos of Siem Reap on, we onlyhadn't used this the previous day becuase someone had told us it was realyl slow! Aw well.

Going back to our room, Lee added another Cambodian woman to his hareem - just a shame it was a prostitute!!! She came up to him and grabbed his hand but let go whwen I cam round the corner! Me being an idiot didn't register the mini-skirt and luminous make up and just thought she was being friendly! Haha!

Backgammon Score: Kelly 19 Lee 15