Day 13, 14
Pottered around most of the day until it was time to go on our camel safari trip. A 100km car journey out into the desert in an air con 4x4. Our driver, guide and friend 'Banti' stopped to buy chicken for our evening meal and asked if we wanted to help him 'get the chicken'. Fern and I realised this was not going to be two breast fillets in a blue polysterene tray and suggested we would remain in the car. Rufus and Clover, as always, were totally up for it. Clover bounced into 'Shaheen's Poultry Shop' where there was a cage with about 20 cross and nervous looking chickens squished together. Rufus duly selected one and the chicken was taken speedily into the shop. Clover returned about 10 minutes later with a big story. Apparently the chicken had its throat slit, was bled dry, beheaded and then had its limbs and feathers deftly removed. Clover was well impressed. Rufus said it was pretty quick, clean and humane. Am glad I missed it.

We arrived in the village (population 45) about 6pm and were greeted by all the children who stared and giggled. Beautifully dressed, friendly, kind and stunning children who have nothing and live in staggering conditions - no electricity,no running water,no toys. More goats, camels, peacocks and cows than people. The evening meal on the floor of a local family's (Auntie and Uncle) mud hut in pitch black was incredible and will stay with me forever. Auntie actually cooked sitting on the floor over an open fire. Both girls pitched in and ate everything, even the stuff they couldn't see let alone recognise. Insects galore.
The simple way people live and how little they need completely amazed me. The girls played with dung beetles and fed chapatis to a week old calf. They showed us to our beds - inch thick mattresses on a stone floor on the roof. I pulled out my luxury pillow from the car and settled down.
I went to bed on the roof gazing up at the stars thinking I could happily live a simple life. All I need is my family and water. I woke up at 6am, sweaty and sticky and realised I needed toothpaste, toothbrush, toilet roll, Tampax, hairbursh, lipgloss, moisturiser, deoderant, something to eat, a strong coffee, clean pants, air conditioning, shampoo, sunblock and an online connection.

Making do with none of these things, we got up and went to our camel safari - 3 hours into the desert. Again, my snake phobia got the better of me and I couldn't really enjoy it. The heat soared. We were made to get off the camel to climb a giant sand dune; none of us could do it and the locals pointed and laughed. Rufus and I got cross and agreed they had nothing much to laugh about as they live in a ridiculous hostile environment and we are fabulous Westerners. Clover realised quickly at the top
there was 'nothing to see other than more sand' so we got back on the camels. She climbed a Holy Tree at the bottom and probably grossly offended everyone.

We had lunch, the girls entertained themselves by playing 'Gandhi's assassination' with Playmobil figures and then we left to return to Jodhpur.