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Day 15, 16
Headed off to Udaipur for the weekend. Very excited as I had read the city was voted 'most beautiful in the world' by Conde Nast readers. Arrived after a five hour journey, driven by Rajinder, our hired driver for the weekend to find a smelly, busy, polluted, run down city, with a dried up old lake, covered in flies and the excrement of every mammal you could possibly think of. Maybe it was Bella readers that actually voted.
Our hotel, the Mahendra Prakash was lovely though, with pretty gardens and a lovely pool. and we went straight out shopping so I could buy presents to send home for my friends. Found a nice place for dinner, Ambrai, with great views and sat down. Imagine our surprise when, as sunset came upon us, Udaipur turned into the most magical and beautiful place I have ever seen. Ice cream turrets on palaces, glistening water, cream and honey coloured buildings began to light up in shades of turquoise and the lake suddenly looked fuller. Our jaws hit the ground and we ordered a bottle of bubbly to celebrate. My first glass of proper wine in India! Made a lovely change from 'Wodka Sprite' or warm Kingfisher which I had just begun to accept.
The city is truly amazing and I completely fell in love with it. It has clearly been designed by somebody madly in love and the sense of romance and beauty is everywhere. Even the next day it seemed much cleaner and prettier. I am learning that when you arrive in any Indian city, the 2/3km journey through the suburbs is usually very depressing - as it would be in Edinburgh or Glasgow I guess. The real city centre of Udaipur and the ghats around the lake are incredible.
Made the mistake of opening a couple of abusive emails from my parents. I had a little cry. I feel isolated at times, the holiday period is over and we are all adjusting to this way of life. I feel I have nobody to talk to and miss my good friends. Tried to contact my sister as part of my 'survivor support programme' but couldn't get her. Probably having
a spa treatment somewhere as part of her own programme. Onwards and upwards.
Turns out Rufus and I had no idea what to do with our driver so kept insisting on walking everywhere and sending him away. He seemed confused - but not as confused as he was when we actually asked him to take us somewhere. He appeared to have no
knowledge of the city - something we should have realised when 10km outside the city he stopped to ask someone 'Where is Udaipur?'.Our hearts sank but with Rufus navigating, we did actually get there. We are no good at managing 'staff' and really don't like the concept of being served. Then I got pissed off we were paying him handsomely so started to invent little trips of unnecessary driving. Went out to see a traditional Rajhastani village, just to keep Rajinder busy, which was stupid really as we had already been to a proper village and were now just being treated to 'an authentic tourist
experience' - which we had to pay for!
Back to the city for more shopping and then settled down for dinner in a cheap and cheerful restaurant with a roof terrace to watch Octop**** An Udaipur tradition - as the film was made here, they show it every night at 7pm to tourists. Had a great laugh trying to explain all the Bond innuendos to the girls. A couple of Wodka Sprites and then an early night. Made Rajinder wait outside the restaurant which was actually much more fun than I had morally allowed for.
Badgered Rufus this morning - 'what is the plan' to which he replied 'coffee?' followed by 'no I meant, what is the 6 month plan, what is the 12 month plan'. I am struggling to switch off and enjoy the moment. Every day I need to know what is happening next. So apparently, does Clover. If only Rajinder knew where it was.
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