Set off at 9.45 in lovely, warm sunshine. Down first into the lower village then climbing up past East Gill Force to Crackpot Hall. Carried on up steeply alongside East Grain beck, more muddy boggy ground. Saw ruins of smelting mills and lots of other evidence of the lead-mining industry. Turned off the higher level path towards Gunnerside, a long way down. Had a cup of tea in a little tea room there and set off to discover that we had to climb all the way up again, the low level route seemed just as high as the one we had come down from. However it was a lovely walk, fabulous views of the fells around us and Swaledale below. Dropped down from the moors to Healaugh from where we walked alongside the River Swale into Reeth. Very pretty little village with a central green and an excellent ice-cream parlour. Got to our B and B at 3.30, greeted with tea and cake which we had outside in the garden. 12.5 miles