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TEAR DOWN THE WALL!
Actually, I didn't tear down the wall so much as teeter precariously up and down it. The Great Wall was a truly amazing experience, but I wasn't prepared for how hard it proved to be...
There were a large group of us, comprising Brits, Belgians, Dutch, French, Portugese, Italians, Germans and a Kenyan - but primarily a group of 21 from a school in Houston, Texas, who were really good fun. Despite there being maybe 40 of us, most of the schoolkids quickly shot off into the distance, which meant that the Wall walk didn't feel at all crowded and was quite often peaceful. But never relaxing...
The six mile walk took me 4 hours, a not exactly incendiary pace. Very little of it was flat - one person described it as being like 4 hours on a stepping machine, and I'll take their word for it. Compounded by a four hour journey back on a coach which was clearly not designed for anyone over 5'3", my thighs are screaming today - if the 2 day rule applies, then tomorrow I shall be avoiding stairs like a dalek.
But - it was all worth it. The views (when I wasn't too scared to look away from what my feet were doing) were spectacular. Every time I looked forward it looked impossible - but every time I looked back, what we'd already covered looked impossible as well. I'm just glad I did it at 40 and didn't leave it any later in life - I think I'd still be there now...
I was put to shame by the souvenir sellers who accompanied us for at least the first hour and a half - one of whom was 60. What a way to make a living. They each latched onto one person or group, and it quickly became clear that they weren't going to leave without either selling something or being thrown off the Wall. I was cornered on a lookout tower by Li Hai Ping, my Mongolian saleslady - as I watched my group march off into the distance, I struck a soft bargain on a book of photos which is actually surprisingly good. After driving a high price, Mrs. Li gave me too much change - negotiation was obviously a stronger point than maths for her. Soft touch that I am, I gave her the excess back.
I was knackered when I got back, and had to stand up dinner with a really interesting American couple - sorry Ben and Paula. Still, the early night meant that I was up early enough to make the most of this morning. If only there hadn't been THUNDERBOLTS AND LIGHTNING, VERY VERY FRIGHTENING ME! The sky was grim - you couldn't even tell it was daytime, the electrical storm was quite scary, and the downpour was relentless. I didn't venture out of the hostel until the rain abated, by which time the morning was gone. I booked another night in Beijing and bought my ticket to Shanghai, and then ventured out for some culture.
But not before my stomach had kept me within eyesight of the toilet for far too long anyway. I'm so glad that I went on the Wall yesterday - climbing 6 miles on a very public historical monument with no toilet facilities and stomach conniptions doesn't bear thinking about.... To settle my stomach for the day ahead, I had the famous Chinese comfort food, spag bol.
I've been to a couple of temples this afternoon - one was a Tibetan lamasery and one was Confucian. There were some amazing sights in the first one, but they wouldn't let you take photos - I had to resort to buying another (overpriced, by Chinese standards) photo book. And then my camera packed in completely at the second one - it's been working intermittently since its soaking, albeit with the buttons producing random results. Looks like I might be photo-less for the rest of the trip - just as well there are only 5 days left then. I'm starting to look forward to getting home - my filling is now coming out whenever it fancies, so I'm taking that as a sign that I need to return.
This internet cafe is my own personal version of hell - it's assaulting most of my senses. It's smoky, cramped (sorry thighs and back), badly lit, and as hot as a docker's armpit - and the guy next to me is playing a really loud shoot-em-up game, with extreme cracking of knuckles and throat-clearing in between rounds. Eurgh.
I wonder what Confucius would say? I was given a (free!!) book of his sayings outside his temple - and sure enough, the first page I turned to said "Wise is the man who walks 30 towers the day before his stomach explodes". I can't find the saying which states that no man can say he has visited a place without the photographic evidence, preferably with himself in shot - that must have been another Chinese philosopher, it's certainly religiously adhered to here. I guess I'll find out for myelf the truth of this wisdom over the next few days...
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