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Tuesday 2nd June Day 12 Luss
Today was going to be so simple but as things turned out…well not so simple.
Last evening after an astonishingly wet day we had a quiet evening and the rain seemed to ease a little.
On going to bed, however, it once again began to pour but this time with the added feature of a wind. Not just any wind but strong, gusting and, at times, quiet nasty. This reached its pinnacle soon after midnight. The bike cover began to thump against the van and I envisaged it disappearing into the Loch. Trees just behind us were waving about violently dumping branches and leaves in all directions. The van shook as each new gust crashed into its sides. Not much sleep was being had as Meryl retreated to the front seats where it seemed rather less unstable. I juts went back to sleep! Typical!
The morning was late but the damage was minimal. A few broken branches, lots of leaves on the roads but otherwise all seemed fine. However, the rain it went on falling and the already rain soaked grass just went on getting wetter.
Plans were changed. No cycling, or golf, for me and the only option was to drive to Helensburgh, a town on the Clyde about 15 miles away. Here, a house by Rennie Mackintosh was to be visited. Not my cup of tea, the country houses of the wealthy but, given the weather, and that it was free, and that this man, Mackintosh has been so oft spoken about in what seemed like reverential tones I decided that I should have a look.
Helensburgh is an unusual town in that it is built on a rigid grid formation, unlike most UK towns. It seems that the town was built so that Glasgow's finest could have a place to go at the weekend, this happening after the railways were built to the town in the 1850's. Boating was the pleasure of the time and the Clyde the surface for its enjoyment. The banks of the Clyde rise steadily away from the river so the higher up one goes, the better the views. This house, called Hillhead was built for a Mr Blackie, a Glaswegian publisher.
Meryl Writes
Hillhouse visit.
After another wet morning we drove to windy Helensburgh, a commuter town built when the railway came to these parts and the gentry could move out of Glasgow. The Blackie family entrusted the design of their new house to Rene Mackintosh. The house is built above the town with a grand view of the loch and a well designed garden. As is typical of other Mackintosh designs, the house has towers and smooth concrete walls, a material said in those days to be indestructible but causing many damp problems today.
The design of the house is similar but smaller than House of an Art Lover in Glasgow, with an imposing but welcoming hall of dark wood and the children's rooms upstairs facing east for the morning light. The furniture is all original and the Mackintosh design features of squares filled with glass or mother of pearl are contrasted by stencils on the walls and textiles using Margaret MacDonalds rose and female shapes. The furniture was practical but also structural, using the ideas of Japanese style popular at that time. The writing desk in the sitting room was in the shape of a kimono!
The rooms were designed to make the most use of natural light and upstairs this was enhanced by the use of white woods for the beds and bedroom furniture. Each room had examples of the iconic Mackintosh chairs which I found out were designed to be a 3d practical item but also a 2d decoration against the wall. I was particularly enamoured of the magnificent light fittings and decorated fireplaces.
Unfortunately it was too wet to enjoy the gardens so we made do with a visit to the practically designed kitchens where we found a cup of tea and a bite to eat. We resisted the beautiful but expensive gifts in the shop which included Teign Valley Glass from Devon.
There are no pictures of the interior because they do not allow them to be taken!
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