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It is Paradise within Paradise here. The Island is preserved in its primitive, natural state, being a nature reserve and marine park. It is a sanctuary to migrating sea birds and green turtles. It has one of the most beautiful white sandy beaches we have visited and the clearest turquoise water. At a depth of 5 meters you can see leaves at the bottom of the sea. It is totally uninhabited. The first time in a week we have other boats anchoring near us, but there is only a few.
We take the jet-ski's for a tour around the island to identify a good snorkelling reef. There are several, but we decide to return and explore the next morning.
We went ashore to compete in our triathlon of volleyball, bocce and sand bunker golf. Paul joined us to even out the teams. The volleyball team of Paul, MB and JB won easily. Bocce was won by the Buxton's. Golf comprised using a sand iron to a buried paddle used as a pin. This was won by Libby,who has beginners luck as she is the only one who has never played golf. We finished off with the longest bunker shot which was won by Captain Paul.
We then soaked ourselves in the beautiful clear water to drink rum cocktails.
That night we have the most incredible electric storm that starts with lightening in the distance at 1 am. By 4 am an amazing storm passes with massive lightening, gale force winds and rain so thick you cannot see for more than a meter. We are all woken by the noise to see the amazing storm.
Thursday. We wake up to the most perfect day after the storm, no wind, our first such day in many months. After our exhausting triathlon the night before we are happy to swim and rest. At midday we take off on our snorkelling adventure.
Our first snorkel is through an extraordinary rock and coral formation, not a lot of fish but great atmosphere. The second stop has many fish of great variety and nice coral heads.
We cannot fish here so we have a long walk on the beach and another volleyball competition, with first mate Mike making up the numbers. This is a really good tight match, finally won by Jon, Dennis and JB.
As we relax afterwards in the water a large shark swims into the shallows and shows too much curiosity towards us for our liking. Meanwhile, Dennis has decided to swim towards the boat some 300 meters away, the shark takes off after him as we get out of the water. Mike quickly hops on the jet-ski and runs after the shark and Dennis. We all hold our breath until he is picked-up 'James Bond style' by Mike and whisked onto the back of the ski and taken to the boat.
We think that the shark has come in as we have have seen other boats cleaning fish on their back decks the previous day.
Friday. We take a long beach walk and swim, then off to a new destination 'Long Island', near what we thought was the township of 'Stella Maris'.
It was a trip of only a couple of hours, with only a Barracuda being caught as we rounded cape 'Santa 'Maria', named by Columbus. We realised we were in another exceptional paradise as we approached. We are surrounded by stunning high sandy cliffs, long white sandy beaches and beautiful clear water.
Near to where we anchor is a resort 'Santa Maria'. We call in to organise a fishing trip in the late afternoon, we can only book a guide for Saturday am, which we decide to do.
We call into the attractive all white resort, to pay our fishing charter deposit. They people are very friendly and tell us about several attractions.
We also organise a cab for the afternoon, to go into the town 'Stella Maris'. On our way to BP we do a jet- ski tour around Santa Maria point, to see great reefs, Columbus' memorial on top of the cliffs at the entrance to the beautiful estuary. This place is stunning!
Our town tour in the afternoon is interesting as their is no actual town. There is a bank isolated in the wIlderness but the ATM works and gives us cash. Our driver 'Devitt' is a very jovial local man who suggests we go to the 'Moonshine Bar, at the other resort. This seems the only place to go so we head there for a drink. It is set on a beautiful rocky coast. Devitt also suggests we buy some local moonshine rum as it is home made and comes in old vodka and gin bottles. We bought two bottles that Devitt secures from a local brewer.
We visit the only supermarket, again isolated in the bush, but we are able to get a few provisions, imported from Nassau.
We enjoy another great dinner and have a sing-along with DJ'S Jon and JB.
Saturday. We are up early for fishing with our guide 'Gellbird'. We requested bottom fishing hoping to bring home some dinner. The day is fantastic not a cloud or breath of wind, the sea is mirror calm. We anchor in about 30 meters of water where you can still see the bottom. For bait he has squid and conch. We catch strawberry cod which we throw back, except for a few small ones we use for bait. We then hook several nice snapper and JB hooks a large fish which turns out to be a large Crayfish. As the Cray gets close to the surface it leaps off the bait and it lost. Libby hooks another monster but can't fight it so she hands it to her husband Jon. After angling for 40 minuets we see that he has a large shark hooked, which fortunately breaks off near the boat. We then see some birds feeding and evidence of Mahi- Mahi. We cast in a few lures and MB hooks a Dolphin Fish, which leaps out of the water a few times before we get it on board. The best eating fish. That is lunch!
Back on board, Paul tells us he has been snorkelling with the crew and has seen large crayfish in waist deep water. As usual he tries to catch it but without gloves it is too difficult.
As we have our lunch of fresh fish and cold white wine we head off to Georgetown on 'Grand Exuma Island' some 20 nautical miles.
It is extraordinary how many beautiful places there are as we come into the Grand Exuma's. There are 700 Islands in the Bahamas, we have only visited 5, and each one is stunning.
We anchor off 'Stocking Island', with Georgetown on the opposite Island only around 800 meters away.
We finish the day off with our traditional pirate party, as the Altson's are leaving on Sunday and Dennis on Monday. Jon dresses as Johnny Depp, our rum punch is good and the photographs are amusing as usual.
We wanted to have our last night at a restaurant so we head to town. As Georgetown is the capital of this area we thought there would be plenty of restaurants to choose from. However, there is not much here and it is low season. We did find one at the Exuma resort that ends up being good especially when we brought along our own sneaky French red.
We have been having trouble with the tender. When we start our trip back to BP, the tender gears will only go in reverse. So, we travel the 2 Kms to BP in reverse which is wet and bumpy.
Sunday. We take Jon and Libby to Georgetown to see them off. They say they have had the best two weeks ever and we agree it has been fabulous. JB, MB, and Dennis go to mass at St. Theresa's church where a number of the local children are making first communion. The girls are dressed as if they are getting married.
We then take a walk around the almost deserted town, which is sparse and not as colourful as the Islands further south.
Monday. We take Dennis to the airport then play golf at the Emerald Bay Golf Club. This course was designed by Greg Norman. We felt it has seen better days, but it had an interesting first nine and a really good second nine along the rugged rocky coast. JB is back in form and wins easily.
Brad Amanda and Sima arrive for their 10 day visit with us. We have a wonderful get together dinner and straight into Canasta, teaching Sima. She is a quick learner and is hooked.
JB and Mick
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