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Saturday
Got up early and had a decent cooked breakfast before heading off to John O’Groats (about 30 min trip) to catch the ferry to Orkney Islands. It was really foggy all the way to the ferry and I didn’t think for one minute that we would be leaving in time, but sure enough off we went on schedule. We sat out on the deck all the way and were quite warm, but couldn’t see a blooming thing. The sea was calm mercifully (although a little bit of a swell) and nobody was sick.
On arriving at Orkney the Maxi tour bus was waiting for us and off we went for a fantastic day. The history of the Orkney islands is fantastic, dating back 5000 years to prehistoric times The trip covered so many miles and so many highlights, so here are just a few.
First of all we travelled over 4 x Churchill barricades. These are in effect long causeways man made (by Italian prisoners of war) on the instruction of Winstone Churchill, to cut off 4 of the entrances to Scarpa Flow. During the first world war many ships were scuttled in these entrances to keep the enemy out. In time these wrecks broke up and drifted apart, leaving a few gaps here and there. Just weeks into the second world war a German U boat came through one of the gaps with the intention of blowing up the entire British fleet – some hundreds of boats. However, most of them were out at sea and the U boat only managed to sink one ship – probably the biggest one, complete with 850 men on board the aircraft carrier HMS Royal Oak. The wreck is now a protected war grave.
We spent some time in both of the main towns of Stromness and Kirkwall for a bit of retail therapy and sustenance, and also a fascinating 1.5 hrs at the historic site of Skara Brae, an almost complete village dating back to about 4000 BC. A huge storm uncovered sand dunes and the perfectly preserved pre-historic village emerged with the help of Archaeologists. Then on the near perfect stone circles very reminiscent of Stonehenge, many World war 2 sites and an Italian church built and decorated by the Italian POW’s.
The ferry left Orkney back to Scotland at 7 pm and we made it back to our B & B by 9 pm after trying to find a money machine (no luck) and something to eat (average fish and chips – we could teach them a thing or two!!)
A fabulous day.
Sunday.
We had a really leisurely breakfast this morning talking to fellow visitors, a couple with two lovely children on their school holidays. Set off from Bower Old Church manse B & B for Ullapool. Although it is a major tourist route it is mostly one way with passing bays every 100m or so. Absolutely spectacular scenery all the way and not a lot of traffic thank goodness. Across the northern part of Scotland very fertile land with stock grazing, Skirting around many little beaches, villages, small ports etc. and then on to one of the largest salt water lochs, loch Eriboll. We had to completely circumnavigate this lock heading south and then north along the most spectacular roads (all one way) with scenery to die for. We found it difficult to find somewhere open for lunch (Sunday) but managed to get something mediocre to keep us going. We stopped at a touristy spot that had some caves down on the beach which were discovered to be the home of prehistoric man. Paul sat in the car while I walked down to the caves and braved a short walk into the entrance to one of the caves. Going up again was a bit of a slog, and I was puffing a bit. Not too fit obviously.
So far so good with the weather. All blue sky and good views. However, as soon as we turned south towards the West Coast and the really high mountains of the North West Highlands, we could see black clouds gathering. Even so, we only had a few miles of rain and then not too heavy. Paul got a little tired and I managed to talk him into letting me drive for the last 20 miles. First time this trip but I have driven in UK a few times, and it is just a matter of getting used to the manual car!!
Arrive eventually to the lovely fishing village (town) of Ullapool on Loch Broom. It is a very picturesque little port with lots of little fishing boats anchored for the night. A reasonably large car ferry arrived as we sat in one of the pubs on the waterfront. This is destined for Lewis, one of the western isles of Scotland. We are about to walk down the road to a fish restaurant and hopefully partake of the local seafood.
More later.
- comments
Janny Hi guys good to talk to you tonight. What a trip you are having it sounds fantastic! It is amazing to see so much history isnt it? Talk soon. J&KXX
Gillian Glad you are having a wonderful time. We shall show you how fish and chips should taste here in East Yorkshire. Look forward to seeing you both tomorrow. Give us a phone with idea of eta. 01482 861025