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We're in Bergen today. Bergen is the second largest city in Norway and it used to be the Capitol. It's an easy walk to the historic city center from the cruise ship port and we chose a two hour walking tour for today. Afterwards Mark and I wandered around a little and walked back. After so many hours of riding in a bus yesterday, it felt good to walk around. Unfortunately, it was rainy today so the pictures are somewhat gray, but it's a pretty city nonetheless.
Here's your daily history lesson: German merchants were very powerful in the middle ages and they had four major foreign cities where they set up trading centers for themselves. These became The Hanseatic League. Bergen was the oldest and most powerful of the Hanseatic cities. What was most unusual was that the Germans set up their own trade and special wharfs and neighborhoods in these cities and they didn't mix with the locals other than to trade with them. The German merchants who lived in the Hanseatic cities were very strict (true to stereotype) and they had to work as long as the sun was up. This was almost around the clock in the summer, but allowed for much more recreation in the winter darkness. They "lived like monks" our tour guide explained, meaning that they lived in a males-only separate society and didn't socialize with Norwegians. Most of the men had families back home in Germany, so they were expected to be celibate when they were in the Hanseatic cities. They also had very specific rules about washing their hands when they entered a room and were fined if they spit or urinated in inappropriate areas. This helped the Hansa (the German housing areas) to be relatively free from illnesses that the locals suffered from.
In any case, we went through the old Hanseatic meeting hall that still exists here and a museum that has been made out of one of the typical houses of the time. The Bryggan Wharf (which was called the German Wharf until after WWII) area is another Unesco World Heritage site.
Our guide told us an interesting story that I want to look up later. On April 20, 1945, a Dutch ship carrying ammunition exploded in the wharf area and the pressure of the explosion dried up the water in the canal, set fire to most of the neighborhood on the opposite side of the water from where the historic buildings are, killed 126 people and shook the old buildings,but left them basically unharmed. Weird story. She also said that the old Stave churches are built like Viking ships upside down and the Norwegian wood buildings are so solid because they use the tree trunk all the way through the roots for their frames.
We weren't able to see the cathedral of Bergen because it is being renovated and is "all wrapped up in its rainwear" for a few years. Our tour guide explained that it is really lovely in the cathedral, even after so many churches were stripped of their finery after The Reformation. Which brings me to my next topic...
American tourists vs. German tourists. There seem to be a lot of German tourists on our cruise, which makes sense since they are the only healthy European economy right now. They are kind of a dour crowd. I don't know what they are saying, so it might just be the harsh sounds of the language, but nothing ever seems to be quite up to their standards.
However, American tourists aren't exactly awesome, either. Classic example today: our tour group was all ready to go early, but we were missing two people who had checked in, but who didn't leave the ship with the group, so we stood around until the exact time we were scheduled to leave and the German couple showed up. The whole tour the woman kept inserting herself in front of me and getting in my picture line while she found a shiny surface in which to obsessively smooth her severely bobbed haircut. The man asked questions and when they decided they had had enough, they left the tour. As I sit here typing, a waiter brought a German guy a glass of ice and a Diet Coke. The guy grumpily took half of the ice out of the glass and put it on an empty plate before allowing the waiter to pour the pop. Nothing is quite right.
On the other hand, there was an American guy who asked the tour guide to explain what the Reformation was (really?! Yes), and the couldn't let it go that the German merchants were celibate in Bergen. He must have asked for clarification about that three times, including insinuations that they must have been using the young boys who worked for them inappropriately. The tour guide handled him just fine, but geez, man, represent better for the ol USA, would you?
Speaking of which, tomorrow is the 4th of July and we hope you all have a fun, safe day. We have a at sea day and I haven't seen if there are any special events planned for the Americans or not.
And we can't finish today's blog without mentioning that we met Ray's Daughter (and her husband) and had a nice chat in the shore excursions meeting area. We were heading to different tours, but after I sat down to wait for our number to be called, a gentleman behind me asked if I was a Twins fan (I was, of course, wearing my Twins cap). We started chatting and found out they are from Stillwater, so I said, "We're supposed to be on the lookout for Ray's Daughter from Stillwater." Sure enough, that's who she was and they immediately knew that we must be Ken and Mary's family. So, mission accomplished! They seem like lovely people.
Happy 4th of July tomorrow! H and M
- comments
Fran I was surprised by your blog today. I didn't realize Norway had so many connections to WW11. That is so interesting. Loved the description of the architecture. Everything you have written sounds like Northern MN. Enjoy the rain and cool because this has been two weeks of China like weather here. My windows in the house are all steamy and it is only 5:30 in the morning. I haven't mowed since before you left because it is just never cool enough to do so. Neither have my neighbors so I know it just isn't me not liking this weather. I am going to the St Anthony Park parade today and then back home. I'll work on the Rembrandt tour today. Miss you guys. I hope you have had a wonderful time even though some on the tour choose to not enjoy the wonders of travel. I wonder if the ice thing is a German thing. I remember Mrs. Megarry being vocal about "no ice" in her drink. Don't know what that is about. Well hope you have a lovely day. I am so looking forward to Sat.