The Journey from Coral Bay to Broome

Fifth Stop: Exmouth

The journey was relatively short, with only approx. 150km to drive from Coral Bay to Exmouth. I felt good, knowing I had made the right decision to get on the bus at short-notice.

By early arvo., we had stopped at a supermarket and stocked up for the next 3 days; between Exmouth and Broome, we had two night stops that would be spent in the outback, away from any civilization – how exciting.  We had also checked into our two bed cabins, which to Petra and my delights, we had a kitchen of our own, a kettle, a toaster, non-plastic plates and wine ‘glasses’ – chuffed! 

It was then back on the bus for the afternoon, to head to the Cape Range National Park and snorkel over the Ningaloo Reef (indeed, it’s very big and does extend from Coral Bay to Exmouth), at the Stunning Turquoise Bay. Again, WOW, WOW, WOW! 

We grabbed our snorkel gear (another Easyrider idea), and dived straight in. Just to the south of Turquoise Bay is a very strong current that eventually forms into a rip. Thankfully, there is enough distance to drop in updrift of the rip, snorkel and jump out before you are washed off the big reef and surf via the rip. Although, I can imagine how a salmon feels as he is trying to get up the river after snorkeling in Turquoise Bay!! The snorkeling was just fantastic, and I would go as far to say that it is better than Coral Bay – we were surrounded by beautiful fish, all colours, shapes and sizes. 

Just around the corner, in the more sheltered waters of Turquoise Bay, we snorkeled again, and to our delight saw two turtles. We were even lucky enough to see one come up for air – it was so close, you could touch it. Just beautiful!

We returned to Exmouth on a high, and Petra and I, cooked, chatted and drank wine at our plastic dining table. So suave a darling.   

Sixth Stop: Auski Campsite.

Steve the bus driver is a hard task master and had us on the bus by 7am. It was a long drive to Auski, but stunning views of the Karijini National Park, games, and a spot of Jeffery Archer helped the time pass. It was on this route that the soil became a bright red, the grass and trees so green and the land started to rise, representative of the historic mountain building phase. Australia forms part of the oldest continent don’t you know?!

The campsite at Auski consisted of tents, ant infested shower blocks and outdoor kitchen facilities. Peacocks patrolled the grounds and without their calls, there was a peaceful silence. We all cooked our dinners and spent the rest of the evening drinking, eating cookies and talking around the kitchen table. I enjoyed speaking with Linda (from South Africa) and her husband Clive, about South Africa and how they enjoy London, but are in the stages of emigrating to Australia; I also enjoyed speaking with Nina and Stephanie from Swiss; both really interesting people and I do hope to go and visit them in Swiss very soon. A kiwi, how cuts the grass along the verges of the never-ending outback roads joined us and it was interesting to talk to him about the impact that the current mining boom is having on aboriginal owned Karijini National Park – despite their connection with the land (an aborigine believes it is his role in life to look after the land), aborigines are being given offers that they can’t refuse and surrendering the land for the mining of Iron Ore.

I turned in by 10.30pm – it was another early start to travel from Auski to Pardoo; 6.30am this time!

Seventh Stop: Pardoo Working Cattle Station

Today was just magic. We hiked through the stunning gorges of the Karijini National Park; Steve pointing out the uses of local plants by aborigines. One that stuck in my mind is a plant that acts as an anesthetic, but if rubbed into the eyes of a man will make him blind for 3 days. A punishment that would surely encourage a man to never commit that crime again.

Steve lead us to the base of the gorge, where you felt like your path would be interrupted by a diplodocus strolling past at any point; it was beautiful, with huge red boulder rocks lining the gorge and a blue/green freshwater stream flowing through it’s centre. It was delightful to walk across the slow-flowing stream, clamber through river plants and to arrive and what I can only describe as something that you see on postcards, or in books, or nature programs. 

The beautiful Circular Pool sat glistening, with ripples created only by water-fall flowing down to the back of the gorge. Immediately, I whipped of my trekking gear, into my bathers and dived into the pool. It felt amazing. I swam to the far side of the pool, climbed up to a platform, to stand beneath the waterfall – warm water showered me from head to toe. I LOVE MY LIFE I cheered from the waterfall. Then, from the platform I dived back into the beautiful Circular Pool. Steve awarded me 7.5; I replied that 10 can only be awarded if you completely loose you bikini bottoms. I hope the water was not too clear ;o)

Just to add to the intensity of the day, Steve first led us through the Dales Gorge, then we hiked up the Fortescue Falls, before arriving at Fern Pool, for another well-earned swim. Not so secluded, Fern Pool was larger and filled by two waterfalls. The local miners come to this spot for relaxation, and I found it quite hilarious to see miners hiking their eskis (ice box) through the gorge, to crack open a beer and drink in whilst in the pool. I fully enjoyed the delights of the pool and dried-off in the sun, chatting with Nina, Stephanie and Natalie. 

We arrived at Pardoo Working Cattle Station, to be greeted by the best looking beds I have seen on my travels so far. Our girly bedroom, with old wooden furniture, white iron beds, red stripy and flowery duvets, provided an excellent ground for the best nights sleep I’ve had on the tour. A good feed and nice chat around the camp fire made for happy dreams.

Eighth Stop: Broome

Today was a strange day – the last day of the tour and for me, my final destination for 12 days, in a backpackers that was different to where all the people on the tour were staying. The allure of Cable Beach, blue ocean and the chance to meet some more people encouraged me to stay at Cable Beach Backpackers. (Now, being my 7th day in Broome, I am most glad I did as it has been a riot and I have still managed to catch up with my Easyrider chums, but hey, that’s for another journal)…

We spent the whole day in the bus, which again went pretty quickly and we were in Broome by 12pm. Steve took the rest of the bus to the Kimberly Klub, but I could not check in until this arvo, so like a good girl helped Steve clean the bus whilst getting covered in sweet – yep, it’s bloody hot in Broome – 36 to 40 degrees. I love it!

We decided to skip 80 mile beach, which is on the itinerary and have a tour of Broome instead. Broome has a long history of pearls, originally initiated by the Japanese. Sadly, in the early days, divers were not aware of the health risks of diving and many of them died. Today, a Japanese and Chinese cemetery exists for those who died. Steve also took us to Gantheaume Point – a bright red headland to the south of Cable Beach, where some distance offshore 130 million year old dinosaur footprints can be seen. Sadly, this is only on low-tide on a full moon, so we settled for the replicas. The site itself was quite stunning, with the contrast of the history-steeeped sandstone, blue/turquoise sea, and white sand beach and dunes.

Steve dropped me at Cable Beach Backpackers and I wished goodbye to my fellow Easyriders. I unpacked, and head to the beach to watch the sun go down, enjoyed a glass of wine at the backpackers and began talking to my fellow travelers. A new chapter begins!

Lots of Love, Em x