Murgab to Sary-Tash
Another rough day, the snow and cold are getting worse, to make matters worse we've had to change the trip, the trouble in Kirgizstan has forced us to minimise the time in the country so instead of going to Osh, Jalalabad and entering China via the Torugart pass we're having to sneak into China via the untried and unrecced Irkeshtam pass, Ah well if it was easy they'd all be doing it. We got the first view of the Chinese border today - it's quite clear who's the big dog around here - it blatantly states "THIS IS OURS". It's also clear who defined the border; if you wanted to invade China from the Tajik side you'd have to fight you're way over a range of significant mountains before gaining any useful ground, if you wanted to invade from the Chinese side you'd have a nice gentle stroll across the valley and you'd control the main highway between Tajikistan and Kirgizstan - not daft these lads. After fighting our way across a field of deep mud, with a couple of offs, we finally arrived at the home stay - as rough as usual - with the dining room in a Yurt next to the house no hot water no showers squat toilets outside, the whole group spread across three rooms, having said that, the food in these places is remarkably good. As we go to sleep a blizzard blows in - looks like tomorrow will be a tough day.