Khorog to Murgab
Now this is starting to get tough; over several very high (4,800 metre) passes today in the snow and cold. After a stop for lunch a storm chased us over the plateau finally catching us in a flurry of snow and high winds I wouldn't like to be caught in the open up here in the winter you wouldn't last long. The home stay is as rough as usual but surprisingly it has a hot shower - after a fashion - first you stoke up the boiler until it's making a load clanking sound which as far as I can tell is the over pressure valve blowing off. Then you get nekked - you can't afford to be shy as there aren't any curtains on the windows. Following disrobing you stand on one leg in the middle of the floor and with the other leg operate a floor mounted pump which pumps the water from the decrepit boiler to the shower head which is above your head. The trick is to pump as much water as possible to stop the high pressure valve blowing so the temperature of the water stays below boiling point. Who says you can't have fun in a homestay?