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Donna & Neils Travels
Hi,
We are now back from Antarctica and all we can say is that it far exceeded our expectations. The views, wildlife and experiences were fantastic, this will be a trip that we will never forget. We can't really put into words how brilliant it was, just look at the photo's. We will write down our journey based on the final intinerary we were given by the expedition staff.
Day1 - 3
On the 1st day we were taken from our hotel and driven to Ushuaia National Park for a tour but although it was beautiful (see Ushuaia photo's) we just wanted to get on the boat and set sail to Antarctica, we had waited so long for this trip and now it was here we wanted to get there.
Eventually, we set sail in the afternoon and had beautiful views of the Beagle Channel. Little did we know what was in store for us in the notorious Drakes Passage. This sea between Argentina and Antartica Peninsula is infamous for being rough and it didn't disappoint. We were in gale force winds for most of the 2 day passage, reaching gale force 9 at its worst (apparently though this was moderate to severe). Two thirds of the passengers didn't make mealtimes and just lay in their cabins until we had crossed. Lucky enough we found out that we have sea legs and we kept ourselves occupied by going to the bridge and attending the many presentations on the history/birdlife/wildlife and geology of Anatartica. It was a tough 2 days but it went by fast.
Day 4
We had reached Antarctica, HOORAY!!!!! Calmer seas and icebergs to look at. The first day was supposed to see us travelling in the Weddel Sea, on the east side of the peninsula, and doing a few landings but the pack ice prevented us getting there. After a few attempts our expedition leader made the decision to go back through the Fridtjof Sound and Erebus/Terror Gulfs (where there were hundreds of beautiful icebergs, of different colours and sizes, surrounding us as we sailed through) and we eventually landed on Brown Bluff in the Antarctic Sound. We had finally reached Antarctic soil, we were so excited we wanted to kiss the ground but as it was covered in penguin s*** so we decided against it and was happy enough to just stand there.
Day 5
Our 1st landing of the day saw us on Hannah point, on the western side of the Peninsula, where there were Elèphant seals and penguins galore, the views were fantastic. This landing though was cut short as the ships anchor started to drag along the bottom. This was no problem as we had a further 3 landings that day at Deception Island. The Island is a volcanic area and last had an eruption in 1967 at Telefon Bay, the location of our 1st landing. Apparently, the eruptions occur every 30 years but we weren't told that until we got back on the boat. The second landing saw Neil do his Antarctic Plunge at Pendulum Cove, with around 12 others from the ship, this just had to be done. Must admit it was probably the same temperature as swimming in the sea at Clacton but it sounds better.
Our final landing of the day took us to Whalers Bay, a site of a derelict whale processing plant. As with all the beaches at Deception Island, the soil was black from volcanic ash and was also covered in fur seals, which, although cute, aren't the friendliest of animals. Get within 10 or so meters they charge you, and thats not $2.50 a look either.
Day 6
From Deception Island we headed south through Errera Channel to Neko Harbour. As we were about to leave the ship, via the zodiacs, for the shore we got to see a carving (bits of a Galciers fall off into the sea from time to time), which was pretty impressive and the noise thundered round the bay. After the landing we were back on ship on our way to Paradise Bay where we had a Zodiac cruise around the Petzval Glacier (very beatiful) and had a beach landing at Almitante Brown Station. Here you could look at more penguins (Donna's fallen in love with them, it was all we could do to stop her sneaking one aboard under her jacket) and climb to the top of a ridge to look down on the harbour. It was tough getting to the top but fun coming down as we all sat on our bums and slid down.
Day 7
Today we entered the Lamaire Channel, which gave great views from the ship, and headed to Peterman Island, our furthest destination south (65·10.7`). Here we saw Adelie Penguins and had a snowball fight (not with the penguins, thats a bit unfair). Its not everyone who can say they had a snowball fight in Antarctica.
After this we went back north to Pleneau bay where we had the most amazing Zodiac cruise through a maze of smaller icebergs. Then it was back through Lamaire Channel to Port Lockroy, where there is a British Antartctic Base with a Post Office and a shop. After Donna had found the credit card I had hidden(remember 10 days without shoping can be hard sometimes) we were off to shore. The penguins here are really curious and will come up to you and peck at your clothes and shoes. I must point out here that although we get to land at sites where there are wildlife it is strictly controlled by the expedition staff. You are not allowed to go within 3 metres of wildlife and if they block your path you have to find an alternative route (which is pretty sensible where fur seals ar concerned), but if you sit still and a penguin comes up to you then thats allowed.
Anyway, fortunately there wasn't a lot to buy as it was at the end of the season but we sent some postcards and had our passports stamped, yea, I know its touristy but who wouldn't want a stamp of a penguin in thier passport.
In the evening we had a BBQ which gave the passengers and especially the crew time to let their hair down, see the photo's of the Russian waitress. A brilliant setting and it snowed too!!
Day 8
It was our final day but there was still a lot to see and our first landing was Danco Island. Here we hiked up a mountain, well it was 300 metres but it seemed like a mountain to us, you try hiking up a snow covered hill with a coat the size of a continental quilt and size 12 wellies. Anyway we reached the top and to our surprise we saw penguins, don't ask me how but they hike up here as well, maybe its for the views. Talking of which, were hidden behind cloud at first, so you can imagine our disappointment when we first got to the top but after a while they subsided a little and we could see down into the channels around us. We were up for about half hour and then it stated to snow so we decided to go down, which was actually great. Low visibilty, snow all around and snowflakes hitting you in the face, you could imagine you were like Scott and Shackleton, but without getting stuck for the winter surviving on penguins and seals.
After Danco Island we sailed through to the Errera Channel to Orne Island. This was our last landing on Antarctic soil so it was a special moment. There were a colony of Chinstrap Penguins here so it was also Donnas last chance to kidnap one. She looked a bit desperate at first but I think she managed to control the urge and bid farewell to them like everyone else. We now sailed onto to Melchor Islands for our llast activity which was going to be a zodiac cruise around some spectactular scenery. I don't know how they could say that as all the scenery was spectactular. Anyway, when we got there we found out that there was another ship anchored. I have to explain here that there are about 5 - 8 ships down in the Antarctic at anyone time and they have an agreement that, through careful scheduling and regular contact with each other, they keep away from each other so that the passengers of a particular adventure cruise can feel islolated. Well not this time and as they were there first we had to abhort our zodiac cruise.
The expedition leader, being his ever resourceful self (which to be fair he had done a fantastic job so far), decided that we would look for whales, yea right, we're in the middle of the Antarctic and Wally the Whale is going to just cruise by for our entertainment. Well it didn't really matter as we headed off into the start of the Drake Passage in the zodiacs which was great fun in the rough seas. Then all of a sudden a humpback whale came into view, then another and at one point there were four. How brillaint was this, chasing around the seas in a small zodiac getting about 10 foot from these 60 foot majectic beast, it was fantastic. If any of you have read the San Julian postcard you'll know how excited Donna gets at seeing dolphins so imagine her being 10 foot from four humpbacks, no word of a lie the expedition leader, who was driving our zodiac asked her is she was hyperventilating. It was a brilliant finale to an awesome 10 days, I think the expedition leader turned to religion at this point as he couldn't have thought he could have pulled this one off, but he did.
We got back to the ship and within a couple of hours we were back onto the Drakes passage heading for home. Needless to say within the time the boat touched the Drakes Passage half the passengers were confined to their cabins. So the farewell drinks to Antarctica was a bit of an anticlimax with only under half of us there.
Day 9 - 11
Well, it was the same story as the start of the journey but with the knowledge that we were going home so it was a bit subdued. Over two thirds in their cabins again (admittedly, majority of them were not sick but just felt better lying down than standing up) and the rest of us trying to negotiate walking along the corridors when going for lunch. I have to admit though even I was sick on the way back for an evening but Donna held strong with her Ozzie mates and made it through the return journey unscathed.
By the time we got back to the Beagle Channel and had anchored up for the final evening everyone had perked up and we all had a great last night.
In the morning we had docked and all that was left was to say our final farewells to the expedition staff and all the wonderful people we had met, especially the ones we know we will keep in close contact with.
Definitely a TRIP OF A LIFETIME, Farewell Antarctca!!!!!!!
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