Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
Bermuda appeared on the horizon on the morning of Wednesday 10th June, a welcome sight after six thousand miles of ocean. Unfortunately the weather was a little inclement, overcast and gloomy, an image which unsurprisingly fails to feature in the brochures, but what the hell it was land and a chance to reverse the developing scurvy and rickets. The fruit, what was left of it, had a Stilton look to it and the furry coating was difficult to digest. I was also so looking forward to seeing Sarah, mother and mother-in-law who were coming to see me.
We initially berthed in the town of St Georges, in amongst American cruise ships and the yachts of the rich and famous. More billionaires have second homes in Bermuda than anywhere else in the world. Stars from the film and music industry, David Bowie, Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta Jones, to name but a few, have residences here together with industrialists, financiers and the odd rogue. The year round favourable climate, azure seas and pink sand beaches provide for an unrivalled paradise.
A British Territory, the population of 62,000 comprises 35% white and 65% black, but such is the prosperity of the island that all enjoy a good standard of living, crime is low, jobs are a plenty and the few down and outs are perhaps beset with mental health issues or have deliberately chosen the street lifestyle. It is inexpiably clean, all residences and gardens are well maintained, and the dumping of sofas in the front gardens or the painting of house numbers on the wall are definite no nos.
And I have to say that Bermudians, no matter what their background, are a really courteous and welcoming bunch, indeed to the extent that some stores will ask you to take your business elsewhere if you don’t pass the niceties of the day before your purchase. The youngsters are all polite and say hello as they pass you in the street and the general respect ethic makes for a refreshing change.
Now having been at sea for some fifty days one tends to forget that land actually remains still, and the brain takes some time to adjust having of course become accustomed to the constant pitching and rolling. Leaving the gangway the first steps were fine, but then I was overcome by a sensation akin to drunkenness, my legs felt like Play Do and I had to grab the nearest lamp post for support. Not a good time for two local Bermudian Constables to walk by, clearly disgusted that anybody could be that pissed at 10.00am in the morning. Fortunately my breath did not smell of intoxicating liquor, my speech was neither slurred or incoherent, and they accepted the excuse for my condition......I also mentioned that I knew Mick Harkin just in case!!
After a night in St Georges we were joined by a further twenty one magnificent Tall Ships, including the Russian Kruhzerstern, the biggest in the world, and together we sailed into the capital Hamilton, huge crowds greeting us on the quay. Harnessed onto the bow sprit waving to the following flotilla of well wishers I had to say I did feel a sense of pride that I had made it thus far, yes it has been an amazing experience but also very challenging.
For those of you that remember Mick Harkin, ex Constable of Warwickshire Police, I can tell you he is doing mighty fine. He rents a cottage with a private beach and is the proud owner of a 27 foot motor cruiser commensurate with the local lifestyle. Bearing in mind the size of the population, an establishment of462 Police Officers may seem a little on the high side and considering Bermudians are quite a law abiding crowd, the work load is certainly light. Mick asked if it was worth coming back to the UK but quickly changed his mind when I slapped his face, the heat must have been making him delirious.
The Police and Criminal Evidence Act which governs Policing in the UK has yet to arrive on these shores, and quite honestly ‘Life on Mars’ could be a fly on the wall documentary. Mick was good enough to take me to the local nick and I had a brief chat with the prisoners in the cell block which was remarkably similar to the one we had at the old Bedworth Police Station. Drunk or just down on their luck, they too seemed a decent bunch, polite and courteous, but maybe this was because they thought I was a Lay Visitor and could get them an extra blanket. God knows how long they had been there but they seemed happy with their lot, it seems to be the Bermudian way, ‘Ces’t la Vie’
I wanted to meet Sarah and the mothers at the airport so caught one of the local buses. The bus was rammed and it was a real novelty to see the young giving up their seats for the elderly...... just like at home.....not!! Anyway first stop and another bus company employee boarded, a larger than life black lady who had a very loud raucous laugh. This lady had a rather large bottom and remained on the steps by the door chatting to the driver. As people hopped on and off at the subsequent stops there was a fair amount of puffing and panting as people squeezed past. Red faced passengers were then made increasingly uncomfortable as they made their way along the bus followed by comments like “You’re a sweetie” or “What you doing later duckie”accompanied by a suggestive titter.
A couple of miles into the journey she turned to us all and asked if we minded if the driver dropped her off at home which was supposedly just off the designated route!!. To a man (and woman) there was a synchronised nod of approval, the sense of relief palpable, all realising there would be no requirement to engage in a five minute rumba just to get off the bus. I was not so sure and nearly pressed the bell...there was bound to be another bus...... You can’t beat a good rumba!!!.
After a three mile detour and god knows how many missed stops, (but there again nobody complained, I don’t think they dared), I arrived at the airport to greet the family. Now some of you may think I have been selfish embarking on this long voyage but it has not been a case of me going away and casting Sarah, friends and family aside, indeed as I have alluded to before, it was a means to an end.. You have all been sorely missed and as Sarah appeared from the Arrivals lounge I felt an overwhelming sense of emotion as she ran into my arms. We were both relieved to see each other safe and well and the old adage ‘absence makes the heart grow fonder’ could not have been more relevant.
Sarah’s and the mums accommodation was superb, directly onto the waterfront and a landlady who considered it her duty and pleasure to make their stay as enjoyable as possible.
Mick took us out in his boat, lent me his car, pointed us in the direction of all the best sights and restaurants, and hence Bermuda was a great experience for us all. We were so grateful for his wonderful hospitality.
From the Tall Ships perspective, the emphasis changed somewhat in that the ship was opened up for visits and we showed people around and this gave us the opportunity to gild the lily about our sea faring adventures. Unfortunately some of the visitors were off the American cruise ships, easily identified by their ‘cruise uniforms’ ie: polo shirts (pastel colours of course), pleated shorts, long socks and white sneakers. Good fodder for laying on the bull s*** but boy do they come out with some stupid comments. “Golly this ship is big, is it one boat or two”?....... Well madam if we split it into two halves we find the buoyancy is compromised!!. “How wet is the rain during the storms”? .......Oh you don’t get any wetter Mr Bush!! God Bless America.
It was also time to say goodbye to all the trainees and some of the permanent crew, only Kelsey and me are on for the whole trip, Cape Town to Belfast. Having spent fifty days with these guys, goodbyes get a little difficult but I shall talk about this later in the trip. There will be many more farewells before we are done, including our own, to which I need to give very careful consideration.
Goodbye also means hello as the new crew board to embark on the next voyage, thirty four young and not so young new trainees, and this of course brings a fresh dimension to Europa as we embark on the race to Charleston, USA. Together with all the other ships crews we competed in the various sporting activities, caught up with friends at home on the internet, and then paraded through the streets of Hamilton to the cheers of thousands of well wishers. I was made up to lead our crew carrying the Europa banner.
We left the quay side bound for Charleston at 11.35am on Monday 15th June, quite taken with this beautiful island and its folk. But I left with a heavy heart as Sarah, Mum and Nancy quickly turned into dots in the distance, I was so grateful to have spent quality time with them, and I thanked my lucky stars that I have such a wonderful wife, family and friends who support and tolerate my dreams, which I have to say are being realised beyond my wildest expectations.
Doddy
- comments