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El Chalten is quite the place!! It is a good thing Sierra and I were only booked at that hostel for 3 nights. Any longer might have been the death of us!! I have realized that Sierra and I suffer from the same disease. Photographyitis. The symptoms occur when you have great weather, a gorgeous location, and a camera in your hand. All common sense flies out the window. We will both do ridiculous things for that next great shot!! As you walk, the weather gets better and better, the scenery is more breathtaking than the last viewpoint, and before you know it you are halfway up a ridge that is much higher than you originally thought, doing switchbacks that suddenly become a scramble straight up a mountain up boulder style "steps" the height of bar stools. We had to climb up some on our hands and knees, climbing them by grabbing scrubby alpine trees and muscling our way up. But when you are halfway there, you can't stop, right?? That's what we thought. But it just kept getting harder, and by then we were even closer... The whole time we thought we were closer than we really were because it was so steep we couldn't actually see the top. Lol. I almost quit several times, but Sierra didn't want me to do all that work, then quit almost at the top. She even carried my pack for me...hers on her back and mine on her front. Humbling. She said to stop thinking about it, that I had carried her for 9 months. What a selfless act! It was hard work!! Later, when we really were near the top, Sierra started to get vertigo, (for good reason) and I talked her through that. We made it to the summit, 1.5 miles of hell, but the view from the top was so majestically stunning, it literally took my breath away. I will never forget it!! I knew these hikes were pretty long. I didn't tell Sierra exactly how long. I just prayed for strength or bad weather... Haha!! Since it was great weather, I walked in faith. We hiked a total of 56 km those 2 days. Sierra did 22 the first day, to Cerro Torre - I only did about 16 or 17 km that day. I stopped just short of the last valley and Morraine you had to climb in order to see the glacial lake. Great view where I stopped, and it clouded over about 20 mins later, so I had time to take some great pictures. Sierra said it was a beautiful setting, but the lake was not the beautiful color of our Canadian lakes. I was pretty tired that day. The first 1/3 of the hike was pretty steep, and lots of clambering over rocks. The rest of the hike was better. The walk across the town to our hostel just seemed to take forever!! Sierra, the slave driver always insists that we stop at a grocery store for food to make a lunch the next day, and breakfast in the morning, and then stop for supper too. I just want to fall into my bed. The next day, we weren't sure what the weather would do, and we almost went back after lunch without finishing the hike, because Fitz Roy was clouded over anyhow, but there isn't much to do in El Chalten, so we figured we might as well keep going. The rest of the afternoon the weather got better and better, and so did the views. In all that hike was 30 km round trip, but the last 1.5 up the switchbacks and 1.5 back down was enough exertion to match the other 27!! Going down was easier, but several places I had to just sit on the rock, and scoot over the edge and drop, because I couldn't reach the ground, so that slows you down considerably!! We both had to stop because our legs were shaking too much to be safe at times. Mine from exertion, Sierras from a fear of heights!! She has become very aware of her dislike of high places this trip!!! We hiked for 10 hours, took about 1 hour at the viewpoint for lunch, and didn't get back till 9:00pm! We were a little worried we would be hiking by the light of our cell phones!! I was pretty tapped out by then, having trouble making my legs do what I wanted them to do, and Sierra was limping on both her feet, wincing with every step. Her bunions did not like all the downhill, and were giving her a lot of pain. I felt so bad for her. I know what that is like. I convinced her to stop and take some liqui-gels, and she asked for 3. Anyone who knows Sierra understands that... But we made it!!! 2 horses walked with us the last few km. we kept wondering if we were supposed to just ride them... Lol! Maybe angels in horse form?? Now that it is over, I'm really glad we did it, even if our judgement was not at it's best!!! Something we will never forget. As we walked back the glacier was rumbling and cracking constantly. We didn't stop to watch, because we knew we needed to move in order to get back before dark. Very cool. When we stopped for Sierras obligatory supper, I had about 3 glasses of wine, which is cheaper than water here. I figured if I had to get up on my legs again, put my backpack back on and walk home after stopping for an hour, I would need some medicating... Haha!! When we got back to the hostel and back to wi fi, Clay had been texting worried about us. How did he know he should be worried on just that evening??? Interesting. It is truly amazing how your body recouperates. Today I am a little stiff, but fine once I'm moving. After sitting for awhile, walking the first few meters is a challenge... Hahaha! Serves me right. Today we took a 3 hr bus ride from El Chalten to the larger town of El Calafate. We will be there 2 nights, then fly to just below Bolivia. Sierra just found out that Ken (her boyfriend) fell on the ice and broke his jaw!! Poor guy!! He had surgery in Edmonton, and is still there. She is naturally concerned about him, and wishes she could be there. Pray for him if you get the chance- thanks!!
- comments
Thelma I'm glad you made it and are safe. Take it easier now. Will pray for Ken. Love, Mom
Thelma What hospital is Kennie in? We are going to Edmonton Thurs. Text me if you know. Mom
Hank What a crazy adventure - can't wait to see a slideshow!!