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It's not the reason we went, but the weather in Quang Ngai was certainly warmer. With a two week break over Tet we decided to take the opportunity to visit our old colleagues down south; looking forward to a week of warmth - in the weather as well as the reunions. We'd then be back in time to join in the Tet celebrations with friends and neighbours in Tuyen Quang.
Locals tell us the first half of winter this year was unusually mild - thus when we first came it was colder than we expected but we coped. But then it suddenly turned unusually cold. The coldest winter for several years they tell us.
Most days when heading out for the markets I'd wear four layers which means I'd look and feel like the Michelin Man. It's just lucky the only full length mirror in the house is on the upstairs landing which I only pass on my way to the rooftop laundry. (We just use the ground floor of the house). I soon found that while my top half was generally catered for the bottom half was still left pretty cold. I managed to find a pair of 880 denier tights in the supermarket - though the marked size of M-XXL seemed rather wide-ranging. Still it was the best I could find. So long as I have half an hour to put them on, and don't need to bend over too far when wearing them, they do the job.
A couple of weeks ago we had a brief respite from the cold - the temperature reached about 27 and I even got into short sleeves, once. But then it plummeted again. A few days of 8 and 5 degrees, raining steadily and some of the locals were posting on Facebook screen dumps of weather websites showing 3 and 2 degrees. That meant my tights under my jeans and both topped with my baggy "Bali" pants. With two pairs of socks I can still get into my shoes.
The cold is felt more here because the buildings are never heated which is why people keep their jackets on indoors. The tall, narrow houses have soaring staircases, often three stories, with open landings so it's difficult to close off rooms and keep them warm.
Initially a short cold spell was predicted, but it ended up being colder than forecast and for much longer. Snow fell in a number of places including Sapa and higher spots in Tuyen Quang province. We couldn't get any more layers on, so I went out and bought an extra couple of small rugs to use as lap rugs while we sat in the evenings and we then added them to the existing bedcovers at night.
It's lucky I enjoy watching tennis so I could spend several days rugged up watching the Australian Open on TV, only emerging briefly each day for a hurried visit to the markets and to cook meals. I would watch the players emerge from their jackets at the beginning of a match and think "quick get moving before you start to get cold". Hard to believe it's hot over there.
The logistics of what to wear getting from cold Tuyen Quang (leaving at 6am too) and arriving in hot Quang Ngai on the same day was a bit tricky. Layers were progressively peeled off along the way, adding to the hand luggage, but it was still a relief to get to the hotel and change into summer gear and sandals. And bliss to be able to wear them for the whole visit.
Our four days were jam-packed with reunions. It began with coffee within an hour of arriving and we never stopped eating from then on. We caught up with many friends but were disappointed to miss a few. We noticed changes in the city - several new big shops, a big new hotel and many new coffee shops. Some of our old haunts had gone. It was great to wander down our old lane and be recognised and greeted by our former neighbours.
The place was bustling with pre-Tet preparations. Shops full of sweets, decorations and other goodies. Stalls selling traditional foods. Flowers, pot plants, bonsais, lanterns and goldfish in plastic bags all along the roadsides. Pop-up stalls with people buying new shoes and clothes for the holiday. All in all a busy few days.
Now we're in Hoi An to crash for a couple of days, and possibly catch up with some other vols. We're enjoying the "foreigner-watching", thinking we recognise people (it's a phenomenon we've noticed when we haven't seen westerners for a while) and watching tourists wobbling round town looking like they haven't been on a bicycle since primary school. The weather is on the cool side - so no swimming in the hotel pool, which is a bit disappointing. Still we love Hoi An and are happy to poke around town. (Still more eating - local Hoi An specialities, breads, Indian, cakes - things not available in Tuyen Quang). Better get back while we can still fit into our clothes! Just hope the weather there has warmed up a bit!!
- comments
Zig Hi Guys! Great photos. I couldn't cope with the cold - even an old fashioned two bar heater would be a bonus, wouldn't it? What about an electric blanket? Hehe!! Meanwhile, here in Perth, we're having a heatwave!Love the flowers and decorations for Tet; and Hoi An photo brings back some great memories for us. Stay warm and keep having fun with those layers.At the moment Dino is away with son and grandson doing walk trails around Cradle Mountain! Meanwhile I'm having fun catching up with loads of 'my stuff'! XX
[email protected] Hi Guys,Your descriptions of the cold and layering of clothes made me laugh out loud.Wonderful photos too.Continue to enjoy yourselves and keep the news coming. I love your emails.Cheers from both of usLiz