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By the time we'd been living in the guesthouse on campus for three months, we were (somewhat in desperation) trying to decide between "hemmed in by hotel, restaurants and coffee shops" and "right on the Main Street" when a colleague said, with a certain trepidation, "I know a house for rent, but it's down a lane ...". Down a lane! Sounded great! We took it. However any illusions of a quiet, peaceful existence soon evaporated. An empty block converted to an outdoor motor mechanic's yard saw huge trucks squeezing past the house every day. It was operating illegally, it seems, and was closed down after complaints. There's still a lot of delivery trucks and a steady stream of residents on motorbikes, school kids on bicycles, hawkers selling and yelling - not to mention kids and dogs running up and down. We're used to our noisy lane. We Ike the feel of activity. Occasionally it bumps up a notch.
Last month saw Mid-Autumn Festival, or Tết Trung Tu, a children's festival of uncertain origin. For several weeks in the lead-up stalls started springing up on the footpaths selling/hiring costumes, masks, drums etc. and kids could be heard practicing drums all over town. Large stalls emerged selling moon cakes (pastries filled with sweet bean paste - an acquired taste) and lanterns. Over the couple of days of the festival small groups would roam the streets playing and performing lion dances on street corners and in whatever houses and businesses invited them in. They brought good fortune and received lucky money in return. It was great to see, sometimes quite small children, sitting outside their houses practicing gleefully and furiously for days. There were other, older groups, some bigger semi-professional groups and even some who trucked into town from the countryside to participate. We were visited by several groups of varying sizes and ages, filling our front room with loud whistles, drums and dancing - as well as a handful of lookers on. Forewarned is forearmed so we had our bundle of small denomination notes ready - though we nearly ran out even so. After dinner we walked round town to watch what was happening on the streets. Scores of people did the same. Wherever a group was performing the road would be blocked with motorbikes as families cruised the streets and stopped to watch the performances. There were special police patrols to try and keep the traffic flowing.
I think it's great as a children's festival. Sort of like Halloween without the meanness. I like that!
More recently there was a death in the lane. Several houses down and not someone we knew, so we weren't involved. Flags appeared outside several houses and at the end of the lane, drums could be heard over several days and prayer services were held in the house. White robed monks and visitors passed back and forth regularly, then on the last day trucks and buses lined up to transport mourners to the cemetery.
Last month was also the start of the typhoon season, with Typhoon Wutip passing to the north of here. It brought deaths and destruction in Southern China and Northern Vietnam, but for us just several days of steady, nonstop rain. Also, one night, the most spectacular thunderstorm I've experienced in a while. Deafening, I'd have sworn the lightning struck directly on the roof. The lane flooded a few times ankle deep and large puddles hung about for a few days, but then briefly back to sunshine and humidity. We watch the weather website to see what's headed our way. So far the storms have passed north of here, but the last, particularly large one, Nari, went through Danang - a bit closer so we copped more wind and rain from it. Not as bad as some of our winter storms at home, though I wouldn't like to see a direct hit. The routine is becoming familiar now - a bit over it all. Watch the build-up and wait for the rain to start. Incessant rain for a day or two. Buckets to catch the leaks. Wishing it would finish so we can get back to normal routine. We're thankful to get off lightly of course, but I hope the typhoon season doesn't go on too long.
We're now on the train heading for Danang then Hoi An to meet up with some friends from Oz. Looking forward to catching up! Just passed through Tam Ky - trees down and people out clearing up. A bit anxious to see how Danang and Hoi An have fared.
- comments
Zig Hi Avenel, Reading your blog makes me feel like I'm there with you....the noise, the rain, the heat! The video really brought back memories of the noise!Love your blogs and the photos are great. Cheers, Zig
Darryl Stock Love the photos! Keep dry!